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aliluke
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Hi Ken Just a thought since your log has popped up again - shouldn't the flags be flying in the opposite direction? With the wind that is driving the sails? I made the same flags for my AVS but without sails they looked a little pretentious to my eye so left them off. They really work with sails though! Cheers Alistair -
Hi Jan Been following your log. The rails look great. My lessons in blackening: - Remove all grease from the part with a soak and brush in lacquer thinners or acetone. - Do not touch the part after this as your fingers are greasy! - Soak part in Spirit of Salts (a diluted form of sulphuric acid) for 10 minutes or so. - Soak in the blackening solution. I use Birchwood Casey's Gun Black and dilute 50/50. - Gently wipe with tissue paper - if the black comes off re-soak in the blackening, if it still comes off re-soak it again and so on. The most important thing is to prepare the part by getting rid of grease and then giving it an acid etch. Many miss this. Next is to keep your greasy fingers off it until it is finished. Blackened bits beats painting easily in terms of look but I do both...Certainly cannon barrels are better blackened but I'm more inclined to just paint bolts and other smaller parts. Cheers Alistair
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Hi Bob Amazing work all round - I enjoy. I'm intrigued by the rope off the end of the chains. Pendants, as B.E calls them - no doubt the correct term. These are correct in all ways I'm sure but I've never seen that detail before. Can you enlighten on the source of this detail and why it was so? Cheers Alistair
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Hi Danny Just found your log - not sure how I missed it as I'm a Bounty fan. Stunning work there and a brilliant result. Congratulations!!! I certainly can recommend Fly or Pegasus - a very elegant ship and an easier hull to plank than Bounty. Any way - great work by you! Cheers Alistair
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Yes I do except for the side tackles which I pre-rig but finally tension after the cannon is fixed down. I glue those rope ends to the deck and place a rope coil over the glued down ends.
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Julian A couple of options for fixing the cannons to the deck: - Put a brass pin under the cannons bed block and drill a hole into the deck glue the pin and trucks to the deck with CA or epoxy glue - Slightly flatten the trucks - just lightly run over sandpaper - so that there is a bigger bonding surface and glue to the deck with CA or epoxy glue - Do both I certainly think cannons that you can't access in the future need to be glued down. BTW thanks for the PM. Cheers Alistair
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Great work on the deck fittings Julian. I'm a fan of Lego jigs - a perfect right angle every time. Good stuff, your Granado is showing it's qualities - as a ship, a kit and by your build. Cheers Alistair
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Fantastic work. Crisp, clean and precise. CONGRATULATIONS!!! Bloody well done. Alistair
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Superb work Len - a pleasure to view. Cheers Alistair
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Hi Jay Know nothing about that mill and I couldn't get one in NZ in any case. Since I keep on contemplating getting a mill my research headed me towards the Proxxon Micro Mill MF70. I know there are better but at a significantly greater cost. The Proxxon appears in many milling pictures in many logs here and that, as well as the relatively low cost, convinces me that if I ever get a mill it will be a MF70. I wonder if it is more $$ than your selection? Cheers Alistair
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Not sure what is going on with the holly there Ken. I used it on my deck with pencil caulking and had no issues at all. Perhaps the joints between the planks need to be tighter? Easier said than done and certainly easier on a deck than a hull...Any way it all looks pretty ship shape to me. The flow of the planking looks great - you maybe being to hard on yourself? Cheers Alistair
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Hell of journey there Bob. What a nightmare. I hope your re-clean holds the nice details you have. I don't know if you have tried Testors Dullcote lacquer as a matt finish - I have no idea how it works with copper. What I like about it is that even brush applied - it does come in spray as well - it settles to a very smooth finish. Guess I will trial it myself on copper but maybe it is an alternative? Cheers Alistair
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Hi Ollie I like you leading me on the way on this activity. Top work. I just got the rest of my Amati copper tiles from Cornwall Models today - no excuses for me now. Not sure about this "gore line" - seen it some coppering but not in others. I only guess it is straight flow of tiles than run from the stem to the stern to set the upper curve that runs into the waterline? Below that the copper is set by stealers into that line? This aspect confuses me... I was just going to start at the keel and work up with stealers until I hit the curve right. Where did you get the advice about the gore line? Cheers, Alistair
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I agree with all of the above. You are being too tough on yourself. That planking looks very sharp to me. Ollie and I briefly discussed this thing where you get things so tight that you virtually can't even tell that it is a wooden model...A delicate balance but you are treading the line very well in my opinion. A wee sand and you're away. Your hull lines look spot on too - that counts for a lot. Bloody good work! Cheers A
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Hi Larry Must of missed some of your earlier posts. Nice work on the planking! It must be a good feeling to get past that. The meanest are those that turn from the upswing to the counter and then down to the stern post. You look to have that well sorted out. Good to see you back at it. Florida, cold? Have I got my view of the planet wrong? Isn't yours the State that the northerners rush to in winter to escape the cold? Put on a thick jersey and get going . Cheers Alistair
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I wouldn't worry about that colour difference Ken. I have the same issue on Fly - boxwood hull and walnut stem, stern posts. I actually quite like the contrast. Cheers Alistair
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Hi Ollie I'm going to be using the Amati plates - 0.1mm thick. They come in strips 7 plates long and by Ray's log (I think) you can lay them as strips - I think RMC does this too. The overlaps are only over the stealers as I understand - Ray's logs show this best. In any case I'm totally new to coppering so I'm at sea here too!!! Cheers Alistair
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Great stuff Bob all round. I look forward to seeing your gallery build. Love the cabin details - wonderful joinery. Cheers Alistair
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Hi Ollie I'm just about to start this process - there are a few logs here with good advice - have a look at Ray's Diana and Pegasus and RMC's Vanguard - these go into a lot of detail. I agree with most of the above. One piece of advice I'm following is to place a styrene bead at the waterline to dress the plates to. Ray reckons fix this first rather than after cutting the tiles to the line. For a cheap, cheerful and very effective waterline marker have a look at my log. I only went very slightly lower for drag at the stern on Fly but it depends on the ship. The AVS for instance is dramatically lower at the stern. I'm not going to do overlaps excepting where I'm doing stealers. I think the overlaps would be out of scale. The FFM for Swan Class sloops argues that even at 1:48 scale the rivets would be nearly invisible. It is a bit like caulking and tree nailing I guess - you can emphasise a detail which in fact would not be realistically apparent at reduced scale but it gives the model a certain definition. Personal choice prevails. Cheers Alistair
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This is truly extraordinary work. Brian C - can we assume from your post that you are part of bringing this work to a wider audience? And can I find somewhere a log about your own Royal William build? I stopped short of buying the DVD, just can't justify the cost, but Dr Mike sure puts the rest of us to test. Utterly amazing. Anyway it is all about inspiration - onwards and upwards! Daunted as I am... cheers A
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Looking great Ken - the sails really add a whole new dimension to the AVS. I'd vote against crew unless you can do a very realistic job on them. Cheers Alistair
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Victory by mikec - FINISHED - Mamoli
aliluke replied to mikec's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Thank you Mike I will do that next time I'm in Auckland - at this moment it will be, sadly, for a funeral. Ivan Mercep - a living legend and one of NZ's finest architects is at the door and I've done lots of work with him. Years ago I did a project in architecture which needed a quick patina on copper. The secret ingredient was pure horse urine. Kid you not...the copper went completely green in a matter of days. Happy client and a relieved horse...I guess. Horse **** - who would have thought?! Thanks Alistair -
Wow - great work on the model and your detailed log has pretty much answered all of my questions and concerns about coppering. Very glad I found it! I'll try and leave the experiences of mine on my log when I get into it. Thanks Alistair
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Victory by mikec - FINISHED - Mamoli
aliluke replied to mikec's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Amazing work Mike! Next time I'm in Devonport I'll be there to admire it. I like the hints of verdigris on the copper - planned or natural? In any case the whole model has a patina of a very well made and natural thing. Bravo! Brilliant! Cheers Alistair -
Hi Brett I agree with you - the rhomboid shape is too subtle. Get them in and fair them as all other parts for serving the planking. I think there is a photo in my log of these parts installed. I certainly can't remember being especially stressed about the shape - the parts are too small to worry about in this respect. More important is to get the planking flow - internally and externally working around them. Cheers Alistair
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