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aliluke

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Everything posted by aliluke

  1. aliluke
    Hi Bob Amazing work all round - I enjoy. I'm intrigued by the rope off the end of the chains. Pendants, as B.E calls them - no doubt the correct term. These are correct in all ways I'm sure but I've never seen that detail before. Can you enlighten on the source of this detail and why it was so? Cheers Alistair
  2. aliluke
    Hi Danny Just found your log - not sure how I missed it as I'm a Bounty fan. Stunning work there and a brilliant result. Congratulations!!! I certainly can recommend Fly or Pegasus - a very elegant ship and an easier hull to plank than Bounty. Any way - great work by you! Cheers Alistair
  3. aliluke
    Yes I do except for the side tackles which I pre-rig but finally tension after the cannon is fixed down. I glue those rope ends to the deck and place a rope coil over the glued down ends.
  4. aliluke
    Julian A couple of options for fixing the cannons to the deck: - Put a brass pin under the cannons bed block and drill a hole into the deck glue the pin and trucks to the deck with CA or epoxy glue - Slightly flatten the trucks - just lightly run over sandpaper - so that there is a bigger bonding surface and glue to the deck with CA or epoxy glue - Do both I certainly think cannons that you can't access in the future need to be glued down. BTW thanks for the PM. Cheers Alistair
  5. aliluke
    Great work on the deck fittings Julian. I'm a fan of Lego jigs - a perfect right angle every time. Good stuff, your Granado is showing it's qualities - as a ship, a kit and by your build. Cheers Alistair
  6. aliluke
    Fantastic work. Crisp, clean and precise. CONGRATULATIONS!!! Bloody well done. Alistair
  7. aliluke
    Superb work Len - a pleasure to view. Cheers Alistair
  8. aliluke
    Hi Jay Know nothing about that mill and I couldn't get one in NZ in any case. Since I keep on contemplating getting a mill my research headed me towards the Proxxon Micro Mill MF70. I know there are better but at a significantly greater cost. The Proxxon appears in many milling pictures in many logs here and that, as well as the relatively low cost, convinces me that if I ever get a mill it will be a MF70. I wonder if it is more $$ than your selection? Cheers Alistair
  9. aliluke
    Not sure what is going on with the holly there Ken. I used it on my deck with pencil caulking and had no issues at all. Perhaps the joints between the planks need to be tighter? Easier said than done and certainly easier on a deck than a hull...Any way it all looks pretty ship shape to me. The flow of the planking looks great - you maybe being to hard on yourself? Cheers Alistair
  10. aliluke
    Hell of journey there Bob. What a nightmare. I hope your re-clean holds the nice details you have. I don't know if you have tried Testors Dullcote lacquer as a matt finish - I have no idea how it works with copper. What I like about it is that even brush applied - it does come in spray as well - it settles to a very smooth finish. Guess I will trial it myself on copper but maybe it is an alternative? Cheers Alistair
  11. aliluke
    Hi Ollie I like you leading me on the way on this activity. Top work. I just got the rest of my Amati copper tiles from Cornwall Models today - no excuses for me now. Not sure about this "gore line" - seen it some coppering but not in others. I only guess it is straight flow of tiles than run from the stem to the stern to set the upper curve that runs into the waterline? Below that the copper is set by stealers into that line? This aspect confuses me... I was just going to start at the keel and work up with stealers until I hit the curve right. Where did you get the advice about the gore line? Cheers, Alistair
  12. aliluke
    I agree with all of the above. You are being too tough on yourself. That planking looks very sharp to me. Ollie and I briefly discussed this thing where you get things so tight that you virtually can't even tell that it is a wooden model...A delicate balance but you are treading the line very well in my opinion. A wee sand and you're away. Your hull lines look spot on too - that counts for a lot. Bloody good work! Cheers A
  13. aliluke
    Hi Larry Must of missed some of your earlier posts. Nice work on the planking! It must be a good feeling to get past that. The meanest are those that turn from the upswing to the counter and then down to the stern post. You look to have that well sorted out. Good to see you back at it. Florida, cold? Have I got my view of the planet wrong? Isn't yours the State that the northerners rush to in winter to escape the cold? Put on a thick jersey and get going . Cheers Alistair
  14. aliluke
    I wouldn't worry about that colour difference Ken. I have the same issue on Fly - boxwood hull and walnut stem, stern posts. I actually quite like the contrast. Cheers Alistair
  15. aliluke
    Hi Ollie I'm going to be using the Amati plates - 0.1mm thick. They come in strips 7 plates long and by Ray's log (I think) you can lay them as strips - I think RMC does this too. The overlaps are only over the stealers as I understand - Ray's logs show this best. In any case I'm totally new to coppering so I'm at sea here too!!! Cheers Alistair
  16. aliluke
    Great stuff Bob all round. I look forward to seeing your gallery build. Love the cabin details - wonderful joinery. Cheers Alistair
  17. aliluke
    Hi Ollie I'm just about to start this process - there are a few logs here with good advice - have a look at Ray's Diana and Pegasus and RMC's Vanguard - these go into a lot of detail. I agree with most of the above. One piece of advice I'm following is to place a styrene bead at the waterline to dress the plates to. Ray reckons fix this first rather than after cutting the tiles to the line. For a cheap, cheerful and very effective waterline marker have a look at my log. I only went very slightly lower for drag at the stern on Fly but it depends on the ship. The AVS for instance is dramatically lower at the stern. I'm not going to do overlaps excepting where I'm doing stealers. I think the overlaps would be out of scale. The FFM for Swan Class sloops argues that even at 1:48 scale the rivets would be nearly invisible. It is a bit like caulking and tree nailing I guess - you can emphasise a detail which in fact would not be realistically apparent at reduced scale but it gives the model a certain definition. Personal choice prevails. Cheers Alistair
  18. aliluke
    This is truly extraordinary work. Brian C - can we assume from your post that you are part of bringing this work to a wider audience? And can I find somewhere a log about your own Royal William build? I stopped short of buying the DVD, just can't justify the cost, but Dr Mike sure puts the rest of us to test. Utterly amazing. Anyway it is all about inspiration - onwards and upwards! Daunted as I am... cheers A
  19. aliluke
    Looking great Ken - the sails really add a whole new dimension to the AVS. I'd vote against crew unless you can do a very realistic job on them. Cheers Alistair
  20. aliluke
    Thank you Mike I will do that next time I'm in Auckland - at this moment it will be, sadly, for a funeral. Ivan Mercep - a living legend and one of NZ's finest architects is at the door and I've done lots of work with him. Years ago I did a project in architecture which needed a quick patina on copper. The secret ingredient was pure horse urine. Kid you not...the copper went completely green in a matter of days. Happy client and a relieved horse...I guess. Horse **** - who would have thought?! Thanks Alistair
  21. aliluke
    Wow - great work on the model and your detailed log has pretty much answered all of my questions and concerns about coppering. Very glad I found it! I'll try and leave the experiences of mine on my log when I get into it. Thanks Alistair
  22. aliluke
    Amazing work Mike! Next time I'm in Devonport I'll be there to admire it. I like the hints of verdigris on the copper - planned or natural? In any case the whole model has a patina of a very well made and natural thing. Bravo! Brilliant! Cheers Alistair
  23. aliluke
    Hi Brett I agree with you - the rhomboid shape is too subtle. Get them in and fair them as all other parts for serving the planking. I think there is a photo in my log of these parts installed. I certainly can't remember being especially stressed about the shape - the parts are too small to worry about in this respect. More important is to get the planking flow - internally and externally working around them. Cheers Alistair
  24. aliluke
    Hi Ollie You are too kind - I'm still a beginner in my own opinion. I guess I feel like I'm in control of my model these days when before it was an out control thing with it's own mind! Yep that "line between the planks" is a really interesting question/dilemma. Perhaps others have thoughts? I have just finished the upper counter on Fly with a complete loss of the planking lines and the same applies to my very carefully calculated and tapered wale planking - all of the tapered lines are virtually invisible - they were too tight. Too lose it looks like crap and too tight it looks like...I don't know what?...Plastic (no implied criticism of plastic models in that thought!)? Veneer? It is hard one and in the future I may do tiny reverse bevels to emphasise the planking line. I did this on my AVS (1:48) and liked the outcome but at a smaller scale (1:64) I decided it would be too pronounced and went for full tightness. The other option is to caulk everything including the hull planks. In hindsight I would have done this on Fly. Anyway if you stay with natural finishes the wood grains will define the planks and your skills will read through. That you can get things this tight on your first go means you are now in complete control! and can loosen those joints for effect on the next pass at it or caulk the external planks to define the lines. Needless to say, for doing a fine, well researched and brilliantly made model - you have no worries. Cheers Alistair
  25. aliluke
    Great stuff Jay. The rigging never seems to end on USS Constitution - it makes me dizzy just thinking about that complexity and sails to boot. Cheers Alistair

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