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Hubac's Historian

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Everything posted by Hubac's Historian

  1. I would very much like to speak with Mr. Saunier. Before I contact him, though, I would like to hear what the Musee in Paris has to say in response to my inquiry. I'm sure their response will generate additional questions that I could then ask Mr. Saunier about. If I reference you as the link between us, shall I say that "Ofencer" suggested I contact him, or do you have a different screen name on the Modelisme site?
  2. So far, my attempts to inquire through Ancre's website, as to whether this proposed monographie might soon be available for purchase, have gone un-answered. I will try to post these pictures here: At the moment, I am unable to do that. I will see, later, if I can upload them from my Pinterest page, where I have copies of them. The model really is fascinating and confirms a number of things that I am trying to do with this build. It would be incredible to have legitimate scholarship backing a monographie, complete with a sound hull form for this early time in French naval architectur
  3. Hi Ofencer! Yes, you are absolutely right that there are no absolutes when it comes to modeling the first SR. All we can do is build upon the work that is out there and draw upon the existing 17th C. ship portraits of SR's contemporaries that we know to be reliable. Only then, can we hope to arrive at some semblance of truth, but we'll never know her true appearance completely. That is, not until the Van de Velde grissaille of her emerges from behind someone's aweful paint-by-the numbers picture of whatever - where it has been hiding and long forgotten since the days of Hitler's art pillag
  4. I did a little bit of drawing for my "frieze legend" tonight, but I spent most of the evening cozying up with a tumbler(s) of Powers and reading through Druxey's build log for his Greenwich Hospital Barge. I was relatively sober, at the start, but thoroughly intoxicated with the achievement of his build, by the end. Also, Powers is named that for a reason! What struck me so much, aside from Druxey's master skill and intuitive feel for the correctness of these boat shaped things, was his graciousness towards all who come to visit his build log. I understand that, at first glance, anyt
  5. Druxey, I am just so awed by what you have accomplished with this build. There really isn't anything I can say that hasn't already been said more succinctly. But, I'ma go ahead and try... First of all, your presentation of a build-log was really so informative to me, who is new to the site. You are un-failingly gracious and your log structure, for any given entry, is so perfectly focused on illustrating the particular challenges, solutions, mis-steps, and course-corrections that such a challenging build necessitates. Your writing, also, is excellent! The choice of subject was such
  6. I hear what you're saying about the full scratch-build Druxey. I do. From my perspective, though, that seems like infinitely more work just to produce a hull form. Let's assume, for a moment, that it's still a waterline build, but that I'm going to do the least involved hull construction: bread and butter lifts. I first have to come up with a suitable lines plan because, currently, nothing verifiable exists for French naval architecture, circa 1669. Let's say I adapt the lines for L'Ambiteaux. I still have to configure the guns, which likely means lengthening the hull in the waist. I would,
  7. My guess is that it should be workable after the lower hull and stem have been cut away, and the 5/16" addition I need in the bow should be obtainable from the first 1/2 of the hull because it is essentially a flat piece there. I may have to do some fairing in around the stem, or possibly some heating of the casting to re-shape it a little. Any which way, it should be easier than building up and bending in these additions out of sheet styrene, which was my original intent.
  8. I've been reading around and watching YouTube videos on how to cast resin parts. Eureka! This morning it dawned on me that I can make perfectly mating bow extension pieces, with perfectly matching plank lines and grain detail by casting the first half inch of the hull, at the bow. Theoretically, that should work perfectly without any problems or difficulties, at all, because that's just how life works. Easy button! I could apply the same technique to the stern for my 1/4" add-on piece, and then i'll have the added benefit of perfectly matching tumblehome. Awesome! I'll have to do two
  9. Tonight, I drew the Antler escutcheon carving that goes between the main deck guns. This is one aspect of the kit that I will not be altering. It was a witch to draw, and it is still only a reasonable facsimile, but I only need it as a spacer for the full rendering. Having it in place will give me a better sense for the entire composition of added details. What I find interesting about this process of first renderings for repeated details is that now, with an example of the Antler carving and the sheer cap carving in position, relative to each other - it seems as though maybe the s
  10. Hey Dan, I will definitely look into Alumilite - thanks for the tip. As for stamping into clay moulds, my thought was to use regular earthenware clay - and not the polymerized stuff - and maybe some kind of light release agent that wouldn't interfere with the curing and detail of a product like Alumilite. I figure that, in the worst case scenario, if the castings don't come cleanly from the clay, you could just scrub them clean and stamp a new mould. Worth an experiment, anyway. Where the Fimo/Sculpy will come in really handy is for the large, one-off carvings like Apollo and his horse-draw
  11. Hi Matt! I'm new to the site, but I've been perusing build logs and your work here on the Latham is truly stunning. The treenailing really came off well without appearing over-wrought. And your deck furniture is wonderfully detailed but just softened enough to look like a real work boat. Very impressed!
  12. A few more renderings, tonight. I was having a hard time getting the scale of the bell flower additions right for the round ports. This revision makes the ports seem a little over-wide, but I can scale this more easily in Corel Draw. I just wanted to get the shape of the thing right. I like the shape of the sheer rail caps, though. Because of the positioning of the Heller kit's round ports, I don't think I will be able to do the small scalloped cutout into the planking, just inside the sheer cap, nonetheless, these pieces will go a long way toward providing a more elegant transition from
  13. So, tonight, I drew in the sheer line and sheer strakes. I also did a simplified embellishment of the square domed ports of the main deck guns. There isn't enough room to do the double scroll acanthus carvings, below the port, and there's barely enough room to do a simplified fleur-de-lis at the center, top of the port. Although it probably won't show that well in this picture, I think it looks nice. Tomorrow, I'll experiment with a bell-flower accent to both sides of the round ports, but the stern drawing is just about ready to digitize. The more I think about it,
  14. Yes, I am particularly fascinated by Neko's build. His method of using balsa lifts with ply bulkheads was quite ingenious. I also find his skill in layout, planking and carving to be quite exceptional. Is Fimo a brand name, or a type of mould medium? It allows one to make a series of impressions? It dawned on me that I could probably cast into modeling clay; when it's cold, it should be stiff enough to take and hold an impression long enough for resin to set. Has anyone tried this?
  15. One thing that I am puzzling over is the large number of small ornamental details that I plan to add to the model, after first scraping away most of what Heller moulded into the upper bulwarks. I'll need to make resin castings of three different sizes of fleur-de-lis; one for the first gundeck ports, another for the middle gundeck ports, and a third for the ornamental frieze of the upper bulwarks. I'll also need shells and a leafy sort of scroll accent for the frieze, as well as port accents for the domed, main deck guns and the quarter and f'ocsle ports. My plan was to carve really good mas
  16. Hello! Yes, the last time I checked on Mr. Saunier's build he was not this far along in developing his stern. He and a gentleman who goes by the name "Neko" are both building their own interpretation of SR, based on the Berain drawings. Mr. Saunier has chosen to model his quarter galleries on a more restrained design, which I tried to post an image of, above, but could not owing to permission restrictions. Neko, it seems, is planning to do the earlier design for his quarter galleries. I am in the process of asking the Musee what time period these two different appearances pertain to. I sometim
  17. I did a little drawing last night. I copied the stern extension profile and added a hash-mark tracing at the stern post, in order to see what the upper sternplate rounding will look like. I decided, for now, that I like the depth of the 1/4" extension. I corrected a measurement error for the sweep of the main wale's bottom edge location. I was then able to mark in the location for one of each type of port. I haven't finished drawing the arched dome of the square port. I will likely be making some decorative additions to the profile of this port.
  18. So, the first step in the actual build of this project is that I must create a scale drawing that will enable me to layout the new stern plate, the new quarter galleries, and the new upper bulwark frieze. I will also be lowering the main and fore channels, and possibly the mizzen channels because they are modeled too high on Heller's kit. This drawing will enable me to properly layout the spacing of the shrouds as they relate to the masts and guns. I don't need a lines plan so much as a correctly scaled "field," in the plan view, which will enable me to begin layering and re-arranging de
  19. Plus 1/2", Minus 3/8", Plus 1/4" My modification plans for the Heller kit are primarily concerned with three alterations, in dimension, to the standard kit. The first, and most significant change will be to add 1/2" of breadth to the hull, along the ship's entire centerline. As moulded, this is impossible. However, if the hull is cut away below the waterline - then, this alteration becomes quite feasible. The reason this will work is that the kit's bow is rather bluff enough that if one were to seperate the hull, at the bow, from the stem (after, of course, cutting away the lower
  20. What a remarkable build, Liberto! Your ingenuity in tackling the gallery balustrades is really inspiring. Well done!
  21. Well, I have established a point of contact at the Musee de la Marine. They requested that I assemble a list of specific questions, and I was more than happy to oblige. Although I stated earlier that I am not interested in resolving the question of SR's armament for the purposes of this build, I would like to at least know what I should be aiming for on any future full scratch-build. I'm going to post the Word document of my letter to the museum. I'm not sure why, but none of the pictures that accompany the body of my text are showing here. Some of these pictures appear to have permiss
  22. Thank you for the link, Grant. I have seen this build before, and I appreciate the efforts to present a more realistic weathered appearance to the hull and decks.
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