Keith Black
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Everything posted by Keith Black
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Thank you Phil. Keith, I shorten game time by taking lots of breaks. The main is ready to be rigged. I can't wait to fill the void that exist between the mizzen and main by adding the main's yards and adding running lines and stays. But, as excited as I am, I'm going to wait and go ahead with the boring job of getting the fore ready for rigging. It was such a long period of time since I added the deadeyes and shrouds to the mizzen that I had to relearn a lot of the how to's and the little time saving tricks. So, while I've got all the tools out for the job and while all is still fresh in my mind, I'll ready the barren fore with it's deadeyes and shrouds. Thank you to all for the comments and likes and for dropping by. Keith
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Looking good Mike. 👌
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Mark, there are some good photos in the below link. https://www.tripadvisor.co.nz/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g230028-d243858-i42175785-Fregatten_Jylland-Ebeltoft_Southdjurs_Municipality_East_Jutland_Jutland.html
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Perfection is a quest each of us is drawn towards but always remains just beyond our reach. For sanity's sake we must be at peace knowing we did our best and judge ourselves not as if we were a god but as the mortal men we are. "Thanks Keith- i can say the same about your build too" Keith, thank you for saying that but your work puts my meager efforts to shame.
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My thoughts and prayers go out to you for your upcoming surgery. May you heal quickly and be back at your work table in short order.
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I like the stand and the mounting board blends well with the model. The chrome stand looks like stanchions saying, "stand back, mind your manners" You could photoshop her on water and you'd swear you were looking at the real thing.
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Mark, over the years I've gathered up lots of info for the time period between 1860 and 1900. If ever you need a lead on something don't hesitate to ask. This period from sail to steam, cannon to gun, and wood hull to clad is amazing. All the new technologies being brought online by Navies round the world was incredible. Ships were launched and became obsolete in a fifteen/twenty year time span. The Tennessee that I'm currently working on was the USS Madawaska and renamed the USS Tennessee in 1869 after a spar deck was added and a major refit only to be scrapped in 1886. And we think todays military spending is crazy.
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Mark, I just discovered your Jylland build log. She's taking shape nicely. Screw frigates are my passion, I look forward to following along. Where are you located in our lovely state?
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DJ, the repairs you've made look great and the "W" looks like it's always been there, your grandfather would be proud. Impressive results thus far, she's cleaning up nicely.
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- Malek Adhel
- Restoration
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Rick, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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Buddy, sometimes it's not knowing how to do it but how not to do it. We're all on a learning curve, I've tossed some my what was to be my best work into the rubbish bin. Your second attempt looks better than the first and as you pointed out it made the next steps easier.
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William, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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Sorry Mike, I forgot that this is a friends model and not yours. And now I remember past conversations.
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I don't understand why red was used on the bulkheads, I know it was but white makes more sense (IMHO) with it's ability to reflect light. Great progress Tom.
- 320 replies
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- Sophie
- Vanguard Models
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Dave, see the below, page 26 post #768. MSW's search engine is invaluable.
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Mark, absolutely beautiful work. Great visual treat. 👌
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Mike, welcome back. In my humble opinion you need to strip it all the way back to the bare hull and proceed with the restoration from the ground up. All three mast need to be removed and rebuilt. Taking down the mast means removing the shrouds and ratlines. It's that old saw, if it's worth doing it's worth doing it right.
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Thank you Eberhard for responding and thank you for great tip. Thank you Glen. Once you start using flush cutters you'll wonder how you ever got along without them. Johnny, thank you. At smaller scales ratline knots seem to be too large IMHO and detract from otherwise beautiful rigging. My dear wife was once a beader but had to gave it up due to her aging eyesight. Needless to say I liberated all of her tools. Yes Tom, each shroud line is pierced. Tom, I hold onto the left side clip to provide resistance to the needle as it pierces the shrouds so my fingers are never in danger of being stuck unless I do something stupid like trying to pull the ratline thread through by holding onto the needle with bare fingers instead of using my needle nose pliers. I'm working at 1:120, Johnny mentioned that this method would work at 1:96 scale and smaller. I also keep my elbows firmly rested firmly on my worktable. You're more than welcome Andy. I'm more than happy to pass on what was shared with me here on MSW. Thank you Keith. We can get caught up in the moment and do some goofy stuff, can't we. Please don't try this method without first practicing on a test piece. You may find it too fiddly or it may not work for you for whatever reason. Thank you to all for your comments, likes, and for following along.
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Mic, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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