Jim Rogers
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Everything posted by Jim Rogers
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I always install the stem, keel and stern post prior to planking.
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I would think you could start with the plan line drawing. Probably need to get permissions from Model Expo if going public with the design.
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The business I contacted for the QTR Badges said their CNC software would not support an item that small and all the detail was lost. The carronades are smaller so I know it can be done. I am still trying to get it done. Great job on the jig!
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Interesting new model ship company
Jim Rogers replied to Erebus and Terror's topic in Wood ship model kits
Looks enticing but.... I’ll wait. -
Brass piano hinges
Jim Rogers replied to Chariots of Fire's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Check Rockler. -
I love the look as is. Wouldn’t touch it. Like the way you can deference individual planks and Trenails.
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Is that a 57 Chevy hood she is sitting on? Wow She is a big girl! Welcome aboard by the way. She is worthy of a refit. Actually IMO a model in that scale is much easier to refit as everything is bigger.
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Looking awesome Rusty.
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Why do they have to be hollow? The kit builder could hollow out a small section if so desired. Why couldn’t they be a hexagonal extruded plastic? My 2cents. Not pushing either way just suggesting.
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The first thing I do now when I open a kit is throw out all the included rope and blocks and begin ordering Syren Ship Company after markets. They DO make a difference. My only issue is that I hate waiting for Chuck to replace stock 😂......Like now, waiting for 1/8 singles. And don’t forget the specialty block kits hearts, fiddles and strapped blocks. I use the inner strapped Blocks for my anchors and I don’t care if that is historically accurate or not because man they look good with and anchor attached.
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Looks Great! 30 Knot Burke would be proud.
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I am looking forward to dipping my toe into real POF with this cross section.
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I use the Syren 3mm and 4mm hooks and they work well BUT I found it easier to thread by drilling out the hole a little and they have this hook on the end that makes it hard to connect to an eyelet so I clip it off. But that is just me.
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I build a plywood form about 3/4 of an inch thick that matches the curvature of the bow, you should be able to trace this from plans, I then epoxy this to a plywood base. I only steam bend so I clamp the planks to the nose of the frame and apply steam to the plank using a stem cleaner with nozzle. Steam it and began bending right behind the first clamp. Add another clamp and so forth then let them dry and remove from form. I can usually do 4 at a time. 8 if you do a Port and Starboard form. System works well
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My great-aunt's Travel Diary c.1903
Jim Rogers replied to Mike Shea's topic in Nautical/Naval History
And the reason nobody uses cursive anymore is that schools don’t teach it and teens don’t text it. I tried to read the page but had trouble. Great find though. -
Piet you have had quite the life. I believe your Father is honored by this build. I will most definetly be following.
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The cannons look great. I use the gunmetal then add a very dry brushing of steel to the high points. Really makes them pop. I love the lines on this ship. You are doing a great job.
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Looks great Gary. The Admiral told me today she really likes the look of the Confederacy and I can purchase it with my tax return. Good work Gary 😜
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Looks good Floyd. PM’ed you about my CNC Quarter Badge construction. If they turn out good I’ll provide some photos.
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Build a form out of ply, attach one end with a clamp and then apply steam slowly bend and clamp as you go. Works every time even for lateral bends
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I think those are real wood Trenails. The Argus makes more sense to me now. How could you possibly fight the ship and steer with the rigging like that. No boat lift off the stern either.
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I believe that is a Panama Fairlead. Age of Sails has them. Check Fittings, Deck. I think they are on page three or four. You could also take a Closed fairlead, cut it at an angle.
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Some of the differences between the two plans is the Model Shipways has the steering rigging on the deck, the Naval Museum Model has the rigging attached to the upper bulwarks and the wheel is closer to the tiller. It also seems to have a Capstan located where the Binnicle is on the MSW version.
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