rshousha

Hi,

Are you using your own printer or just Shapeways? I want to get my own and I've narrowed the search to the Formlabs 2. It seems like the right technology for organic surfaces like ships' decorations. 

I guess my question should have been Z-brush, Mudbox, or Maya? I already have software for manufactured items. I'm looking for software for carved and sculpted items now. 

Thanks, 

Rick 

This topic is going to be at the top of everyone's list soon. For those people who are already making their own parts, what is your favorite software? I am considering downloading Z-Brush, as it looks like it can do the organic stuff for figureheads, etc, but there may be others. 

Thanks.

Rick

Gaetan,

This is wonderful, thank you. What I find interesting is that real ships similar to this were probably built near where you are building this one! Looking at your build, I feel I am peering into the past, into what might have been the Levi shipyard in the 1800s. 

Regards, 

Rick

Elijah,

This is wonderful work, well done! Getting to the end of a wood ship project is a really good sign of things to come, whatever you do. 

I love the lines on the boat but, after reading through your build, I did not see the designer's name. I may have missed that. Do you know who drew and built the original? 

Best Regards, 

Rick 

Hi Rob,

Glad to know you're snowboarding. We're on hard ice these days but expecting a good snowfall this week. 

Cheers, 

Rick 

Hello Gaetan, 

A nice, practical, start. Indeed, working with one's hands is the best part of knowing a craft. 

Best Regards,

Rick 

That's a really beautiful model. Well done! 

Pierre, 

Dumas has a kit of the Lightning but I think Zoran can do a great job with this model.  Looking at his plans for Batelina and Pasara, I think we'll be building real, tiny, boats instead of something that looks kind of like a Lightning from fifty feet away. I also really like the quality of the wood Maristella uses. None of the other manufacturers come close to their quality.  As for the Star, Mamoli had a nice kit but they went out of business and the kit was discontinued. I'm not sure if Dusek, the company that is reviving the Mamoli line will be building the Star again. it seems the Mamoli kit was really nice, like all their kits and the number on the sail, 1426, was the number on the Star owned by the original owners of Mamoli. Again, I think Zoran can do a wonderful job with that. 

OK, no more hijacking; let's see more pictures of Batelina. I can't wait to build that myself!

Cheers, 

Rick 

Greetings, I know this is Pierre's thread so I apologize for the intrusion but, to follow the note I made the other day, Zoran loved the idea of making the Star and the Lightning. He even promised to use the number from my Star, 6756, for the sail. 

I think they will both be excellent kits as they are hard chine constructions similar to Batelina but more complicated and with interesting rigs. I think they'll make excellent models for the Maristella line.  

Cheers, 

Rick 

The boat looks really nice, Pierre. I love boats with hard chines like that. We should get Zoran to do a Lightning and Star kit. I'll have to send him a note. 

Cheers, 

Rick

 

 

Hi all - this will be my attempt at building the Royal William from Euromodel. I say attempt because I consider my skills as just average. 

In looking at this blog, I was reminded of the first lines you wrote. 

This sure is quite an "attempt". Well done so far!!

Hi Bob,

One thing you might try is moving to bigger scales. I just got a Pocher Ducati, at 1/4 scale! I'll have to get bigger tools!

Cheers, 

Rick 

Thanks guys. I really, really, have to put this back on the workbench. With my bad eyesight, the discovery of using 3D CAD programs to design stuff has been such a pleasure. I can magnify, and magnify, and magnify to my heart's content. 

OK, I'll put it back in work this week, promise. 

Cheers, 

Rick

I beg to differ. I did put the main deck in early because my main keel was twisted. By inserting the deck early (see my earlier posts) I was able to straighten out the whole assembly. It worked out nicely. 

Best Regards, 

Rick 

Hi Herb,

Indeed, you are reading it right but I think you are misinterpreting what needs to be removed. I sense you think the gun port pattern needs to be removed. What gets removed are the bulkheads. Yes, they are a bit of a pain to remove but they come away eventually. The gun port pattern becomes the inside layer of the bulwark. 

Cheers, 

Rick 

Hi Don, 

I was excited to hear that there will be a Canadian distributor for this line shortly. I am looking forward to seeing these models on shelves in stores in Canada. 

Best Regards, 

Rick 

Hi Don,

I like the dowel idea. That's an interesting, and simple, solution. Most 3D programs will allow this sort of hole through the entire assembly. 

Who do you think will be first to develop angled bulkheads in the bow and stern, like with proper plank on frame structures? 

Best Regards, 

Rick 

Hi Don, 

I'm looking forward to getting your opinion of this manufacturer as you move through the build. From everything I have heard, they are doing an excellent job. 

Best Regards, 

Rick 

There is the same discussion with golf, sailing, skiing, and a variety of other hobbies. Some people just want to try something and then move on. More power to them. It's a big world out there!

Cheers, 

Rick 

Hi John,

I will take your advice on the eyelets, thanks.

What you see in the background is my laser-cut version of Mediator. According to a friend, who asked me for these frames, it is the "best frame system he's seen in fifty years of building model ships". Unfortunately, I am not able to share these frames with anyone as the designer of the plans forbade me from advertising that this service is available for his items. 

I will not be building the model; it is only there for reference, in case someone wants to see the quality of my laser-cutting. 

Regards, 

Rick 

Capping rails installed. There's still a little work to be done to add a piece of capping rail across the transom but she's coming along nicely. 

Next, is the installation of the eyelets inside the bulwarks all around. 

I'm looking for that worn look and it seems like the deck is looking pretty good, with a lighter color where the men walk back and forth. 

Four days to get the other side done. Phew. It looks a little better than the starboard side because I was a little more careful bending each plate carefully. Still, I think this would be much better with CA glue. Oh, well, the fun is to accept compromises. 

The next job is fitting the capping rails. 

Regards 

Rick 

Greetings, 

Here are a couple of pictures of the starboard side, completed. I'm pretty happy with the result. The waterline is pretty sharp but I do have a couple of issues. First, since I'm using 5-minute epoxy, I had a very hard time getting the slight curvature needed in the tiles to conform nicely to the hull. If I had used CA glue it would have been easier to keep the plates right against the hull as the glue set. However, I am allergic to the stuff and have no intention of wearing a mask for modelling. So, I'm settling for the slight imperfections. 

I can use help with a solution, if someone has anything. 

Second, I find the size the plates quite large for the scale. They scale out to something like 48" x 18", which seems pretty large. Next time, I will tap down the round heads a little to make them more like the tops of nails. I didn't think of that until I was well into the installation.

Overall, if the material was a thinner (doubtful that thinner sheets are available) and if the plates were a bit smaller (yikes, if you are building Victory), they would look a little more accurate. 

However, overall, I would say this was quite a challenge. 

OK, now for the port side!

Cheers, 

Rick

Greetings, 

For those of you who are waiting for my next posting with bated breath, I have six tiles left to go on the starboard side and about twenty on the port side. I tip my hat to those builders who put 3,000 of those lovely things on ships like Victory, Diana, or Agamemnon.

Best Regards, 

Rick

JR,

Indeed you are absolutely right about the super-glue. I've tried various masks and they just fog up my glasses. The most important thing for me is that this needs to be fun. I have no intention of wrapping myself up in masks and bubble-wrap to have fun.

if the product is that dangerous, I simply won't use it. 

So, I'm happy with the Titebond for the wood and the two-part epoxy for the tiles. They may not lay as flat as they would with instant glue but I'm happy just the same. 

No more CA glue for me. it's just not fun. 

Cheers,

Rick