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GrandpaPhil

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Everything posted by GrandpaPhil

  1. By inspection, I am going to call these 3/32” wide, spaced 3/8” apart:
  2. The scuppers are now done: Because I used that hought board which fuzzes, I sealed the inside of the scuppers using a dental pick to apply sealant. In the painting from the US Navy’s History and Heritage Command, there are ribs on the insides of the bulwarks, so I am going to incorporate those prior to attaching the cap rails, which will go on prior to the initial painting.
  3. Thank you all for the likes and for stopping by! The gunports have frames: I’m currently working on making scuppers.
  4. The forward deck is done: Which means the entire deck is now planked: I added a couple trim pieces: Next step is to seal the deck and cut out the scuppers. Then I’ll add the gunport frames and paint the hull.
  5. Thank you both! I just finished the other side and sealed it. Everything will look much better once I get some painting done. I finished planking the aft deck. I planked the entire Prince de Neufchatel, painted it and coppered the hull over a four day weekend, so I was trying to figure out what the difference was, because this is my second weekend since I finished the first layer of “planking”. Then I realized that I did the work on the Prince de Neufchatel literally during a blizzard when I was snowed in, and not in the middle of the summer when I have stuff to do, lol. It’s amazing to consider the effects of the seasons.
  6. Thank you all for the comments and the likes! The second planking is done: The next step is sealing that and planking the deck!
  7. The second layer is almost on: The port side went on neater than the starboard. I think I was a little out of practice, lol.
  8. Make sure you seal the vinyl with a good sealant. I typically use Mod Podge or Delta Ceramcoat Sealer. Otherwise, there can be issues with the paint adhering well.
  9. Thank you both! The port side is now second planked above the wales:
  10. First side has a second planking (read covering): It’s a little rough, but it’ll look better soon!
  11. Edward, Thank you very much! The second planking is self adhesive vinyl. I would think any filler would work. I have used drywall mud and other fillers on models before, with success.
  12. All trim is now installed and the model is nearly ready for the second planking. I need to trim the fashion pieces and seal the model before it can be planked with the second planking. I will do the deck at the same time. I am using the painting off the Navy’s History and Heritage Command for my primary color reference. I will also use it as a reference for some of the detail work. I have not yet decided on a color for the base.
  13. Thank you both! Thank you everyone for all the likes! After looking at the model in the US Navy Museum, I ended up reshaping the stern and quarter areas of the hull with putty to make the wales go on correctly. I made the wales and installed them. I also made the quarter trim pieces. I made the stern trim pieces and installed them. I also cut the hole for the rudder. I still have some more trim pieces to make, then I’ll add the second layer of planking. I’m adding the trim first because the planking is contact paper, which is a plastic and this creates adhesion issues.
  14. One very rough, roughed out hull: It only needs some minor shaping and I’ll add the wales and a couple pieces of trim. Then I’ll make the second planking out of wood grain contact paper. I’ll be honest, getting to this point is the hardest part of a ship model, for me.
  15. I am using an inside layer of posterboard to set my bulwarks. So far I have the forward deck done and trimmed off. I installed my transom and planked over the curved section with 1/8” wide posterboard. I traced out and reflected the forward bulwarks and glued them to the inside of the bulwarks, on posterboard. I cut the gunports as part of it. The aft deck is now installed. I will have some reputtying to do once I cut the aft bulwarks. The stern is about 80% complete.
  16. Thank you very much! I like working in card. It works well for me. Here is the forward deck:
  17. Thank you all for the comments and the likes! Sam, I’m very glad you find my builds useful. I sanded the second coat down and set it in its cradle. I had to make a few adjustments. I am currently working on getting the bulwarks, including the stern, cut to shape. This means, I’m cutting off the corrugated parts and generally preparing to final shape everything.
  18. You should. The hardest part is trying. I’ve seen your work. You won’t have a problem.
  19. Lol! The spackle goes on pink, but dries white to let you know when it’s ready to sand or paint. The first layer is done and sanded and the base is made. I prepped a second layer.
  20. I mudded Hannah: While waiting for the mud to dry, I decided to make the base. I like cradle type bases because the pedestal type bases look awkward to me (unstable). Due to questions asked by the newer folks about how to make a base, I will show how I am making mine. I chose to place the cradles at a location which would approximately center the entire model on the base. I marked the locations on the base board. I traced the bulkheads, off the body plans, at the locations that I chose (c and h, for this one). For those building kit models which may not come with line drawings, they usually have the drawings of the bulkheads. If all else fails, you can trace the lines from the cut-out in the sheet you took the bulkhead from. I only traced to the waterline. Note: ensure that you allow for the keel. Then I marked where I wanted the base to be and allowed for the differences in the height of the waterline (Hannah has sharp lines and I want her to sit level with the waterline). I used a triangle for a right angle and made a line to make the bottom of my cradle. Then I drew the outside profile of the cradle. Lastly, I folded the tracing paper and made a reflection over the centerline so the outside profiles matched. It sounds complicated, but it took longer to type this up than to actually do it. Next, I’ll enlarge the cradles on the copier and glue the pattern to wood.
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