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Matt D
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I’m working on the q gallery roof railing. These parts are small and delicate. I have found that I have to go slowly to get good results. I’m taking it one piece at a time (and it didn’t cost me a dime). I don’t have a picture of it, but that first post sure looked lonely all by itself. I’m also working on the friezes and moldings. Here’s my middle molding, which turned out to be the first profile I made. The more I looked at it, the more I liked it for this spot.
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Artesenia Latina Virginia American Schooner
Matt D replied to Dougal Mack's topic in Wood ship model kits
Thanks, Dugal. There are several really good builds of that kit. Be sure to read several. Mine is certainly not the best, but it will help you avoid some pitfalls. As I recall, many of us had to modify the rudder, but someone figured out how to build the transom so the kit rudder would fit. When I see your log, I’ll follow it. Good luck, and have fun! -
Artesenia Latina Virginia American Schooner
Matt D replied to Dougal Mack's topic in Wood ship model kits
There are two AL Virginia models that I’m aware of. There’s an 1805 Virginia Pilot Schooner and the 1819 Virginia Schooner. I recommend looking in the build log index for kits from 1801-1850. You can also click on the link in my signature to see my 1819. It’s a great kit and makes a handsome model. -
That looks gorgeous, Vlad! You’ve done a terrific job on it. I started working on the railings today. It’s a fun little detail.
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I believe it! One thing I've noticed in my own model is that the photography makes a lot of these pieces look bigger than they are. A 3mm deadeye sounds like a little speck of a thing. Some of this stuff is TINY!
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- Vanguard Models
- Duchess of Kingston
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That looks fantastic, Glenn! Nice work.
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That looks great, Bob. All the deck furniture pieces look like a lot of fun to put together. Your bitts look really well done. I also like the bell assembly (I'm not sure of the proper name for that stanchion).
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Excellent work, Rusty! I think the cannon with the breach rope looks good. It’s a nice, clean look. I also really like the look of your planked deck.
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- Duchess of Kingston
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Hi Fred. It looks to me like you're past all of the problems associated with cutting out your own frames. I'm sure you've seen numerous posts where I was whining about my own. On mine, I can feel some imperfections in the hull, but it's very hard to see them. I am pretty sure you can't see them in my photos. Likewise, I can't see any in your photos. I think you and I are both reaching the end of problems that we can blame on cutting out our own bulkheads. My opinion is that you're in great shape.
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That's a nice big box of goodness. Breath deep the cedar aroma! I hope you have a great time with this, Frank!
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Those close-ups on the q-galleries really show my mistakes. I'm not sure I can make them much better, but I'm going to at the very minimum add some filler to the gaps.
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Thank you guys for the feedback. I really appreciate it. It looks like the Swann Morton handle works quite a bit different from the Excel and Exacto style handles. That might solve the problem of them loosening up and wearing out. I'm perfectly happy with the Excel #11 blades, which are carried by my local hobby shop. Just not the handles.
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I made some progress this weekend. I completed the Q gallery columns on the starboard side. The port side has been done for a while, but it looks like I haven’t put any pictures of it in my log. I’m getting ready to add the friezes and moldings. The moldings are a struggle. I tried to make a shaper for the middle molding and thought I had a good profile. But what came out looks completely different. It might work for the bottom, but not the middle. My picture doesn’t really do it justice.
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Ron, I’ve felt the same way for quite a while. But yours is in a lot better shape than mine. I think you’ll be able to compensate for any bulkhead related consequences very easily. One thing that keeps me optimistic about my own is the myriad of places where Chuck’s instructions point out that there will be variations from model to model and he has made allowances for you to adjust parts to mate up to your model.
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Thank you Jaager, John, Ken, Tom, and Gaetan for your responses. This is very helpful.
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Great post, Glenn. This is a really nice tutorial. Are these all parts that came with the kit, or did you replace any?
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Wow! You’ve gotten a lot done and it looks great!
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I would like to know from more experienced modelers which brand and model of hobby knife you prefer. I like the K1 aluminum model from Excel, but the threads give out after about three blade changes and it won’t tighten up anymore. I’m sorry if this was covered in an earlier thread, but I couldn’t find anything. Thanks for any advice you might have.
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I’m really enjoying this build, Bob. You’re doing a wonderful job. The details in this kit are so nice.
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Thanks for sharing the pics of you build jig. Your setup look very precise and your frames look perfect. This will be an excellent build!
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Hi Tom. From personal experience, save the baltic birch for something else, where fairing will not be required. It's a little like trying to sand granite or case hardened steel. If you read my log, you'll see that my first attempt was with baltic birch. That set is now hung up in my shop as a decoration because my printer defaulted to "fit to page" instead of "full size" and I had a 0.95 scaling factor on the prints. That's a different problem, but I could already see that fairing that set was going to be impossible. My second and current attempt is with the cheapo "birch plywood" from Home Depot. It's much softer than Baltic Birch. However, I've said several times in my log that cutting my own has been the source of most of my build problems. If I had it to do over, I'd shell out the dough and buy Chuck's laser cut set. If you're really good on the saw, have plenty of time to put into make sure everything is right, and double-check your final contours on each bulkhead, then that might be a good solution for you. But if you can spend the money easier than spending the time, then buy the laser cut set from Chuck. Just my 2 cents.
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Tom, I'm sorry this happened. I've thrown out my back a few times and it's a surprise every time. I know how much it hurts and I hope you feel better soon.
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I see what Christian is saying. In this photo from Post #66, the stem does look a little too thick. It needs to be tapered as Chuck describes in Chapter 1. It's clearly not too late to take care of that and you have to be careful to not overdo it. If you have the figurehead, you'll see that she won't fit as you have it now.
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Siggi, your moldings look fantastic! I love how you finished the ends so they look like proper returns. I also just looked back at your photos from post 373 through the gunports. What great photos!
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I traced it and cut it out. It took me three tries before I got it right.
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