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Matt D

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Matt D

  1. Hi Tom. From personal experience, save the baltic birch for something else, where fairing will not be required. It's a little like trying to sand granite or case hardened steel. If you read my log, you'll see that my first attempt was with baltic birch. That set is now hung up in my shop as a decoration because my printer defaulted to "fit to page" instead of "full size" and I had a 0.95 scaling factor on the prints. That's a different problem, but I could already see that fairing that set was going to be impossible. My second and current attempt is with the cheapo "birch plywood" from Home Depot. It's much softer than Baltic Birch. However, I've said several times in my log that cutting my own has been the source of most of my build problems. If I had it to do over, I'd shell out the dough and buy Chuck's laser cut set. If you're really good on the saw, have plenty of time to put into make sure everything is right, and double-check your final contours on each bulkhead, then that might be a good solution for you. But if you can spend the money easier than spending the time, then buy the laser cut set from Chuck. Just my 2 cents.
  2. Tom, I'm sorry this happened. I've thrown out my back a few times and it's a surprise every time. I know how much it hurts and I hope you feel better soon.
  3. I see what Christian is saying. In this photo from Post #66, the stem does look a little too thick. It needs to be tapered as Chuck describes in Chapter 1. It's clearly not too late to take care of that and you have to be careful to not overdo it. If you have the figurehead, you'll see that she won't fit as you have it now.
  4. Siggi, your moldings look fantastic! I love how you finished the ends so they look like proper returns. I also just looked back at your photos from post 373 through the gunports. What great photos!
  5. I traced it and cut it out. It took me three tries before I got it right.
  6. It’s looking really good! I have this kit on the shelf. It looks to me like a great subject, and the history of this model is interest to me. I’ll pull up a chair and follow your build log. Good luck with your build!
  7. What amazing work, Chuck! This is a phenomenal project you’re putting together and sharing with us!
  8. Welcome to MSW, Neil. You’re gonna need a bigger boat. I’m looking forward to following your build.
  9. Welcome aboard and happy New Year, Frank. Those oliebollen sound delicious. I wish I had some too! This is a fun project with lots of members to help and encourage you. There are Winnies being built all over the world right now. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
  10. Rusty, this is a beautiful kit, and you’re doing a fantastic job on it. How did you plot the waterline for your masking tape? It came out so perfectly.
  11. It looks like you’re off to an excellent start, Rich. I’m looking forward to watching this come together.
  12. Thanks for your kind comments, Joe, Kathy, and Wyz. I can’t wait to get back to work on Winnie. I’m tied up with a kitchen floor project for a little while right now.
  13. What an amazing workshop you have! You have obviously put a lot of effort into setting that up. It looks like a builder’s paradise. I counted six space shuttle models. That’s an impressive collection!
  14. It looks fantastic, Kathy! I’ve been to the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich and been on this beautiful ship.
  15. Thanks for your nice comments, Chuck, Don, Dr. Per, Mike, and JJ. Thanks, also for the likes. I love working on this project with the Winnie group. I knew I was biting off a lot, but I really wanted to build a new model in a big group. It’s definitely paying off in both camaraderie and learning.
  16. You should see an “add files” button at the bottom of your new post window. That will let you pick your photos to add. Remember to click “done” after you pick them or they won’t get uploaded.
  17. I’ve spent the past few weeks working slowly on the stern. I have several errors, but on the whole, I’m pretty happy with it. I don’t know how you guys make these columns look so perfect. Maybe I need to build a few more of these before I can get it. I know one issue is that my spacing is a little off, making the columns shorter than planned. I think that is also why the bottom molding on the counter is a little high, creating a gap that I had to cover with a second molding. I also broke Poseidon’s trident. I have an idea from Chuck on how to fix it using coarse wire, but I’m not ready to work on that yet.
  18. That looks really neat with the lights, JJ. It will look amazing with the interior done.
  19. That’s a beautiful model and a beautiful display plaque. Merry Christmas to you, too!
  20. Your parts look beautiful. The display reminds me of an anatomy exhibit at a museum.
  21. It looks great, Peter! Your 3D printed dead-eye spacers did an excellent job helping you get those shrouds up with perfect spacing. That’s funny - I put off rat lines too. But I did it by leaving a perfectly good kit on the shelf and building an admiralty style model instead. They look tedious for sure. I’m sure you’ve read dozens of build logs to find a good method, and I’m looking forward to seeing your winning approach to them.
  22. Thanks, HJ. There are several really nice build logs of this kit. Be sure to read through them to pick up some tips and hopefully avoid some problems. I recommend starting a build log and keeping it updated so you can get some constructive feedback. The Virginia 1819 crew on MSW is a fantastic group. I didn’t know AL switched to electronic copies of the instructions. If you can get that poster printed full size, I would recommend doing so. I used it a lot to figure out how to build it. It was indispensable for the rigging. I’m sure you’re a long way from this, but don’t make the mistake I made on the railing posts. I tried to use a spacer to space them evenly and ended up getting bitten by stacked tolerance error. Measure from one point instead and make sure you’re happy with the location of the step.
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