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Matt D

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Posts posted by Matt D

  1. Hi Chuck.  Now that it seems you have recovered, I will say that I really like the new material and would love to use them instead of wood.  If I understand you, they are easier to use and can be made to look really amazing.  Please add my vote to the Syrenite column.

  2. 5 hours ago, Strelok said:

    As Dr. Google couldn't help me in this regard: can somebody point me to a chart or list (or tell it plainly), for how to change this imperial scale (3/32") into a metric scale (1/x th)?

    The relationship is 3/32 inch per foot.  To covert to unit-less scale, divide by 12.  3/32” per ft.  divided by 12”/ ft simplifies to 1/128 and the units cancel.

  3. 1 hour ago, CaptnBirdseye said:

    Would 'Laser Grade Poplar lite plywood' be recommended? Sorry, but never bought my own before so all new to me 

    https://www.sketchlasercutting.co.uk/products/6mm-laser-grade-poplar-lite-ply-wood-sheet-fsc?variant=29264387440714

     

    They also supply 'Ceiba' and Birch.

    I think this would work fine, Gary.  As Gregory noted above, the slots are the area that is most affected by the thickness.  Once you have the bulkheads cut accurately, the thickness isn't very critical.  Be sure to transfer the marks for the gun port sills to the plywood as accurately as possible.  This is a fantastic project and we'd love to have you join us in building your own Winnie.

     

    One last thing to consider: are you buying the laser cut chapter sets from Syren and having them shipped to you?  If so, then the incremental cost of adding the laser cut bulkhead set may be worth considering.  I don't know your experience level with a scroll saw.  I thought I did a really good job and then found out down the road that I would have been much better off buying Chuck's.  Unless you're scratch-building the whole thing, it might be worth shelling out the dough for the laser cut set.  Please don't take this as discouragement if that's what you really want to do, because I understand that as well.  I really wanted to cut out my own bulkheads.

  4. Hi Gary.  I can't answer your question about the 6mm lite ply.  But regarding the false keel: it's designed in 3 pieces and shouldn't be built as one piece.  The main reason is that it will tend to warp if it's not broken up.  In fact, the middle piece is also reversed to negate the effects of any warping that might occur. 

     

    One word of warning I will offer is to make sure your printout is done a 100% scale, not "fit to page".  I have a second Winchelsea bulkhead set that's about 96% scale from learning that lesson the hard way.

  5. Thank you guys for looking at this.  That seems like the most sensible way to fix it.  I'll get to work carefully cutting the clamps back.  I probably won't have anything to post for a couple of weeks.  Between my two kids, we've got 3 lacrosse games and a track meet this week.  I'm also hoping to go walleye fishing on Saturday.  And I have to travel for work next week.  April and May are going to kick my butt.

  6. On 4/8/2023 at 8:30 AM, Chuck said:

    Lovely!!!

    Thanks for saying that, Chuck!  And thank you for making this project happen.  It means a lot to me that you put in the amazing work to bring this to us.

    On 4/8/2023 at 9:13 AM, Rustyj said:

    The wow keeps coming. Very nice matt!

    Thanks, Rusty!  I’ve been lucky to get some time to work on her lately.  With spring sports starting, it’s going to get tougher soon.

    On 4/8/2023 at 9:46 AM, James G said:

    Agree with JJ. That black really makes everything pop!

    Thanks, Jim!  I agree with you and JJ, too. 

     

    4 hours ago, westwood said:

    Beautiful work Matt and btw I like the simulation of the iron on the stove.

    Thanks, Dusan.  This is the first time I’ve ever tried weathering.  I used pastels because I as able to get a lot of colors.  I mixed some dark grey with a deep rust red.  To use the pastels, I scraped them with a blade into a dish.  Then I applied them with a brush.  

     

    On 4/8/2023 at 9:18 AM, scrubbyj427 said:

    Once I got the caprails on it felt like I rounded the corner for the finish line for sure, not only did It give the appearance of an “almost” finished model but the black added a much needed contrast to all the red and bare wood that needed to be covered. Looks good Matt, you’re closing in.

    Thanks, JJ.  And thank you to everyone who liked my previous post.

     

    About those cap rails:  I have a problem and need advice.  You can see in the pictures that I have a gap between the beam clamp pieces and the curved cap pieces.  This will look awful if I don’t fill that in.  I think the best course of action is to cut the beam clamp back to the beam and then make a new piece out of 3/64 stock.  Does that sound like a good idea, or is there a better option?

    EAB42C40-C31A-463E-8637-0551E95ACF2E.jpeg

    CCF47A02-83D7-4BDC-9D91-BD002E5CDB5D.jpeg

  7. Thank you, Rusty, JJ, Chuck, Glenn, and Jim, for your comments.  JJ, you’re right about the fun stuff!  Chapter nine is full of really neat stuff.  I’ve planked the bulwarks on the quarterdeck and made the cap rail on one side of the waist.  These two things make a huge difference.  Having finished surfaces in those areas is a world of difference.

    86E9642B-2D64-4C57-8E22-6597371C4195.jpeg

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    500D2056-855A-4651-AD99-485AE56FD6C8.jpeg

  8. 35 minutes ago, dvm27 said:

    Greg is unhappy with you for turning an extremely difficult area of the model into a "fun" diversion. A lot of innocent boxwood pieces sacrificed their lives in order for me to successfully frame that area. And then there was the errant elbow strike elbow...

    LOL!  I've been waiting all day for this comment!

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