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cog

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Everything posted by cog

  1. cog
    Have you tried that on 2mm wide "plating"?
  2. cog
    I've got them 4 barreled guns 3D printed, and those are tiny ... very well done Dan The bollards, vents and guns ... eye screwingly impressive
  3. cog
    Very well done ... I wonder how you do it, when your camera has that much trouble focusing on it
  4. cog
    thanks for your answer. Your weathering is hardly visible, but nevertheless realistic, more so than if done to heavily
  5. cog
    Yu can make them with sculpy or something like milliput
  6. cog
    Just finished ... need a few hardly visible touch-ups, When I paint the deck furniture, I have to give a very light spray o gray on the port bow, just not enough coverage ... and a way to get the shading of the plating straight!
  7. cog
    Pitty, that's better than tripple AA's
  8. cog
    The brush-on doesn't give you the finish you want, besides it clogs up thos little openings you have with PE, it would be a sin to loose such detail ... you can try the testors on the "fret" of some PE ... Normally, where Tamiya pot paint is sold, they sell the cans. Tamiya makes you bleed to sell their products, you have to take the line or you don't get to sell it here in Europe. On the other hand it is good ... Ah, yes before I forget. IF you want to thin Tamiya down, take the thinner with the blue cap, it thins apperantly better than the accrylic one (white cap) I have to order one such bottle, since I bought the white one <bummer> I tried water on accrylics to thin them down, but I was not impressed with it at all, so now I use brand speciffic thinners. With the present warmth 30ºC (we have had a heat wave) I used some stuff to make it dry less quickly as well
  9. cog
    And the farmer plowed on (as we say down here) steadily you continue, fast isn't necessary, as long as you keep that momentum. lovely, mate
  10. cog
    On PE, Tamiya, vallejo doesn't stick, at least their airbrushable primer. I've bought a rattle can primer from vallejo, which I have tot try. Since I do have quite a stack of PE leftovers, I'll be trying it on some of that. Let you know how that will turn out. I used the flat and gloss rattle cans from them, and those worked fine. A little getting used to in the beginning, as you do not see the quantity very well, so better a pass less than a pass to many I would suggest. You can always add another layer if needs be. I hope it will be as good as Tamiya. Tamiya is rather expensive here in Europe due to import duties, and transport. Vallejo is Spanish so that gives them a fair advantage
  11. cog
    Acrylics don't adhere to PE, whatever you try to clean it. The only options are: 1. Use a primer which sticks to it, or etches into the surface, or 2. use an ageing agent like blacken-it. However, even the latter isn't 100% proof, if you dare, the most certain way is an etching primer. Since PE can be rather thin, you do run a risk
  12. cog
    You should also take into account the type of ship, for a merchant ship might have them below, a warrior wouldn't, another aspect to conside are the circumstances a ship sails under (is that English?), entering pirated territory, in war with another "sailing power", etc
  13. cog
    Nice collection ... do you trade?
  14. cog
    Anyone for forth? I've still about 20 pcs tripple AA to go I wouldn't hold your breath to see if I'll finish in time for you not to choke
  15. cog
    Gents, thanks for the likes and the comments. Ken, I read somewhere that a bloke stuck the tape to his forehead to make it less sticky ... interesting, as it would mean you are adding grease to the part below the masking tape. Not something you would be looking for whilst painting a model ...
  16. cog
    They were already looking for ways to improve on their speed, so it seems from the way their frames are placed at least ...
  17. cog
    You have some serious superstructure to build mate
  18. cog
    Never knew it was for that, thought you needed it to stick the decals on I use painter's masking tape a lot cause it's wider and cheaper, the blue one. I let this dry unil tomorrow before I mask it
  19. cog
    Ha, no way, Ken. That's a piece of wooden deck from Musashi. As you can see on the grey part, I preshaded very lightly. Might have given a pass less of the red ... Next the water line and the uper hull. Something to look forward to for tomorrow
  20. cog
    Tried my hand at the hull, airbrush anti-fouling... mixture Vallejo Air hull red 15 drops, white 1 drop, 10 drops of thinner, used for the hull 75 hull red (calculate the rest yerself lads) Cut the bridge's planking to size ... sweaty work...
  21. cog
    That's some seriously nice brass work, Cees. Very nice details you added to her ... lovely
  22. cog
    Nice cigar mate. Your paint work turned out rather well ... I think your final coat of flat laquer won't pose a problem
  23. cog
    There is a distinct difference between a PC and and a model ship, but as digibeet - what you call an illiterate - you probably wouldn't know
  24. cog
    It depends how it locks up ... it doesn't respond to anything anymore (not even Ctrl + Alt + Del) you get a blue screen (of death) ... is it a pc/laptop or a flimsy tablet ... options, options, options
  25. cog
    bloody annoying

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