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Kevin-the-lubber
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Everything posted by Kevin-the-lubber
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The current colour kind of depends on the light. It’s supposed to be a light yellow against dark grey, though appeared vaguely cream with pink tones to me. But who am I to argue with the experts and I’ll take their word for it that this was the colour scheme at trafalgar. However, there are 70 odd others coats and my guess is that, within reason, any shade of yellow will have had its day. Just pick one you like! -
Me next! I’m sticking with the yellow ochre. When I visited what’s left of the ship last year I found the ‘original’ flesh colour a bit too nondescript to be even tempted to switch. But as Ian says, seriously, do whatever pleases you. Ian’s spreadsheet is mighty useful - I did use it Ian, based my deadeyes and blocks on that but I just haven’t got that far yet to be using blocks and tackle! A tip re’ the Vallejo yellow ochre. If you’re going to be air-brushing it, add a generous dose of Vallejo flow improver. Of all the Vallejo colours I’ve now used, the yellow ochre was the one that gave me the most headaches. It could be that my airbrush, being cheap, is more susceptible to clogging but flow improver makes a big difference. You look like you’re going to be another fast builder, like Bill, and I too will enjoy seeing yours come together. I don’t think I’ll be going back to mine for maybe another year or two as I want to build the Kearsage once I finish the Cutty Sark.
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Quite true, Allan. I should think very few modellers are ever entirely satisfied with their efforts.
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Marc, I spent a bit of time doing colour tests; in fact the best result for a near teak effect was a sand colour primer, raw sienna base, burnt sienna wash and peat ink, but this really clashed with the deck so I skipped the burnt sienna. I’ll settle for this, especially as I don’t yet have the skill to do it better.
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Lovely work. I think all of us relative newbies have to swallow the odd mistake, accept that the experts went through it too, or be forever fixing small errors at the risk of losing motivation. Another way to look at it (my way now) is that 99.9% of the people who see your model in the flesh won't know a rudder from an udder and will only see the beautifully crafted end result.
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Glazed portholes this evening, and a first go at a more true-to-life binnacle. This one is too big, 20% smaller is about right and awaiting painting. Re' the portholes, for every one in the cabin there are 5 pinged around my workshop, never to be seen again. But I made loads of spares.
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That's a good tip about the leadwork for the windows, I'll try to remember that.
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It sounds like the S-grooves worked? nb. You really have made a nice job of the planking, if you'd said this was your 40th plank on frame I for one would have thought 'oh, so that's how it turns out when you've learned how'.
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I'd recommend starting a build log here straight away, many of us are relatively new or returning after a long hiatus and people here are hugely supportive and helpful. The instructions are on the main page. Re' wooden blocks, I was very impressed with the samples sent to me by Hismodel when I bought some PE from him recently. One other 'must have' book is John McKay's 'The 100-gun ship Victory (Anatomy of the ship).
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By the way Bill, you shouldn't be so hard on yourself. As I'm sure you're going to find when you have it finished and on display, you are going to hear a lot of 'wows'. You've made some very good individual taste choices that, in my view, make this a unique and very appealing build. And one more 'by the way': you do realise, don't you, that a little ways down the line we're all going to be asking you the same questions you've been asking Ian, so don't plan any long vacations! Ian - I hadn't thought about that (the CS climb). I'm sure they'll have a hoist... Personally I enjoyed Aubrey/Maturin the most. It's rare that I hang on to books once read but for me, that set are keepers. You're right though, they'll make more sense in places with ship modelling knowledge.
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Re’ Dr Maturin, very few as I remember! But I’ll make a note to count when I next re-read 😀. Climbing overhangs on a rock face firmly planted in the ground was bad enough, nothing but nothing would persuade me to do this on a ship swinging in the wind.
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Now I understand your problem better. A question - is the PVA peeling off easily? And is the stain oil-based? I’m wondering whether this is the issue, that the stain has created a barrier. Although I’ve glued countless bits of timber I’ve never stained it first as I would always be wanting a fresh, clean surface but also because my (furniture) joints sometimes need a little bit of tidying and blending. If it was me I think I’d do a little testing with a fresh bottle of PVA at this point, glueing stained/unstained. Either way, your plan to carve small grooves sounds like a good one. Alternatively, if there’s enough meat, how about drilling a load of shallow holes along each mating surface and, to go the hole hog, pop in some dowels. Just about anything will do but cocktail sticks spring to mind. I don’t have any experience glueing wood with CA so don’t know if that permeates better than PVA. Gorilla glue also has its uses so long as you can clamp parts together, but it can be messy. And to go a little left field, industrial mastic-type adhesives just might do it; I’ve never used them to actually glue wood together but I’ve sealed stained and varnished window and doorframes without issue and could imagine it working. The boat itself looks wonderful and I feel your pain. To have produced such a lovely item and then see it fall apart in my hands would be heartbreaking.
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Looks eminently suitable, Bill. And it remains fascinating to see you working through this, bit by bit. The sheer amount of labour required for rigging gets completely lost from view when someone simply does a “ta-da” reveal and for beginners like me the step by step coverage is going to be invaluable.
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That’s fascinating. I imagine it costs a fortune. Depending on how strong the printed objects are, it does have relevance to modelling: for 1/100 scale I can print blocks down to about 2mm but anything smaller I.e. 6” blocks, are technically challenging. Nano 3D probably opens up a whole world of possibilities for models at, say, 1/700 etc.
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I think some pieces are better made using resin and others using filament, but neither are ideal for every part and in some instances, e.g. masts and spars, neither are particularly suitable at all. Resin gives much better fine detail but filament is better for structural strength, at the expense of surface finish. Personally, I won’t be too surprised if I eventually find myself using 3D printed for a frame and detailed parts but with wood planking for the aesthetics. In any case I’ll follow yours with interest. 3D seems to be coming into play quite quickly, with more and more model makers heading in this direction.
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And I guess you would you also be able to export them as STL's for 3D printing? At some point I hope to do a whole ship in 3D and think it would probably be immensely satisfying to do so to your level of detail.
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Fantastic modelling Waldemar, it looks very nicely faired. Once the 3D work is complete, what do you plan to do with that? Will you use it to make templates or drawings for making each part in wood?
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That’s a nice idea. I’ve not yet committed to any particular mounting method for my Cutty Sark other than not the kit way, and you’ve given me food for thought.
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Marc, Ian, thanks. This was surprisingly quick, easy and fun to make. And I’m pleased to have now got a couple of items properly finished! I look at the production rate of others on the forum and just don’t know how they do it.
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Bill, lucky for me then that the Kearsage was the base model. I had a good look at it when it arrived and will look forward to working on that, probably late this year or early next year. It sounds like you are doing to the Alabama what I’m doing to the Cutty Sark. I’ll almost certainly do something similar to the Kearsage as I dislike the split deck and now have a reasonable method for making my own. The model is quite similar in approach to the CS - illogical divisions, positive grain and so on, but for all that, what looks like a very unusual, interesting ship to make. I also quite like that there aren’t dozens of build logs for it; it’ll be good to have to figure it out myself. On a different tack, my second CS arrived last week, what’s interesting is how much more flex there is in that newer pressing. Less flash as well. I don’t know what I’ll do with it though. Possibly just keep it for a rainy day. I’d like to have a go at the very beautiful Glory of the Seas but make that entirely myself, mostly via 3D printing. But that too is for another day.
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It’s probably mild steel, but at the low grade end of things. As luck would have it I threw away miles of copper wire and old armoured cable that I replaced when I built my office a couple of years back, which would have come in handy now. I’ll have to think of a new project to generate some more 😀
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It sunk in because I’ll be using that wire for the railings but, in its normal state, it’s very soft and ductile and I could foresee many happy hours trying to tease it into a ‘perfect’ shape. After twisting it’s surprising stiff and I guess with enough practice (and nothing better to do!) I imagine you can tailor that to your needs. Digging very deep into memories of my apprenticeship, it’s all about changing the crystalline structure. I can see me begging for unused Victory wire sooner or later!
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The last 3 or 4 weeks have been a little fraught for various reasons, including me breaking the motherboard on the larger resin printer, and I've been more re-grouping than forging ahead. Lots of cussing but the manufacturers very kindly sent me a replacement, gratis, and I'm back in business. However, bit by bit I'm producing each part to the level I want and will soon start another long painting session using lessons learned through trial and error. Meanwhile, I remade the winches as I really didn't like the kit parts. I do still need to take the shine off the rollers as these are supposed to be blackened wood. As ever, there are about 20 parts and even though it wasn't intentional, it did actually work as a machine before I locked it up with glue! I also learned two useful things along the way; - CA dries incredibly quickly on carbon fibre: the axles are 1mm CF and I had to do a dot of medium CA on the ends instead of shafts as it set almost instantly. Must be some kind of chemical reaction or that it soaks straight into the fibres. - twisting wire really does straighten and stiffen it hugely. I read that tip on here somewhere and, for the tie-rods and handle I once again used the 0.5mm gunport lid wire from the Victory kit, put a pin vice on each end and gave it many turns while holding it straight.
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I guess it’s probably a bit of a grind at times, doing this day after day Bill. But it’s coming along nicely from where I’m sat.
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3d printing process
Kevin-the-lubber replied to henrythestaffy's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
Neither is mine but, to be honest, it was only the smell that bothered me. One day I might build a large, heated and ventilated enclosure for the whole lot but it's a low priority. But then again, mine is in a garage so the smell doesn't bother anyone else. Different if it's indoors.
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