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Papa

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Papa

  1. I’ve looked at some free models. Can’t decide what to try, decisions decisions 😬
  2. Gave up and tossed the kit in the trash. Might try another some day.
  3. Keep it and enjoy it. You are not likely to get a reasonable offer for a plastic model however well done. Not to mention, shipping would be very expensive. Ron Gove Leesburg, VA
  4. thanks again. Just pulled out the laptop/Firefox and have a nice translated version of the site. i am traveling in a smallish trailer so tend to use the IPad. Seems there a times when lappy is better.
  5. I have looked for a translate button on safari on my iPad and don’t see it. I’ll have to look harder or open the laptop.😁 where I have firefox
  6. Does Master Korabel have an English language site?
  7. When I started ship modeling I found this little book from Model Shipways invaluable. Some amazon sellers have it for about $6. Some sellers think it is a rare out of print collectible and are asking hundreds of $$. The Neophyte Shipmodeller's Jackstay (Paperback) by George F. Campbell (Author)
  8. I did a bit of searching for the Mary Celestse a few years ago after I discovered that a distant cousin had owned her (after the found-empty-at-sea event). I couldn't even find a set of plans.☹️. Good luck There is a plan in the book "Ghost Ship" by Brian Hicks, but it is too small to be of much use.
  9. I purchased a yellow box Essex around 1968 or so. It was to be my 3rd Model Shipways model after Young America and News Boy. The instructions are very simple. Essentially: "take the wood in the box and turn it into a model of the Essex." Using the Neophyte Ship Modeler's Jackstay book from MS and later a much more thorough instruction book from MS (forgot the author) and lots of patience and purchasing a bazillion more blocks of various sizes, I finally completed her around 2004. I also built a few plank on frame kits during that time and had to redo work on the Essex as I gained more experience. In the end I have an impressive model of which I am very proud. some pictures are here
  10. I am very impressed with your methodical approach to this kit. It is paying off as you progress. Fine work! Looking forward to following the rest of this log.
  11. Wow almost 2 months since my last post. Been busy with other projects but I also had a VERY difficult time with the sheer rail at the bow. The laser cut pieces were constantly breaking. Every time i tried to work near the bow my hand would slip or I'd put too much pressure on something and snap, the rail would break along the grain. i think every layer of grain now has been glued together. Finally got it in and inserted the bulwarks; also a difficult task getting them all aligned. I couldn't figure out how to feather the waterway into the ceiling planks without the ceiling planks in place. So I modified the build order and laid a few ceiling planks and this provided a reference to feather the waterway. As one can see in the photo, more sanding is needed for a smooth transition. The Morgan will go on a 10 week hiatus as my wife and i are traveling up to the Canadian Maritime Provinces. Specifically, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island.
  12. The bow and stern blocks are in and mostly shaped. They still need a bit more shaping, but i will wait until I confirm how the planks will lay down before I take any more wood off.
  13. I have shaped the counter block and started the transom framing. I made a quick jig, not in picture, to hold the frame piece at the correct angle until the glue dried. I will trim the frame pieces to length when they are all in place. I found the counter block was very difficult to get right. There are a lot of angles and bevels. In fact, I messed one up and had to start again.
  14. The side pieces are an excellent idea. i will have to add those to mine. Ron Gove
  15. Finished the bulkheads and, following the building instructions, attached temporary battens along the bulkheads verifying that the spacing was identical port and starboard. I did this by cutting spacers that would just fit between bulkheads at the center keel and then used them to properly space the outside. Only tiny adjustments were necessary because I had been very careful to square up the bulkheads as I glued them in place.
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