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Everything posted by Papa
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New-Upstate NY. USS Constitution question.
Papa replied to Ronusny's topic in New member Introductions
Keep it and enjoy it. You are not likely to get a reasonable offer for a plastic model however well done. Not to mention, shipping would be very expensive. Ron Gove Leesburg, VA -
thanks again. Just pulled out the laptop/Firefox and have a nice translated version of the site. i am traveling in a smallish trailer so tend to use the IPad. Seems there a times when lappy is better.
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And thanks for the advice all.
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I have looked for a translate button on safari on my iPad and don’t see it. I’ll have to look harder or open the laptop.😁 where I have firefox
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Does Master Korabel have an English language site?
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When I started ship modeling I found this little book from Model Shipways invaluable. Some amazon sellers have it for about $6. Some sellers think it is a rare out of print collectible and are asking hundreds of $$. The Neophyte Shipmodeller's Jackstay (Paperback) by George F. Campbell (Author)
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I did a bit of searching for the Mary Celestse a few years ago after I discovered that a distant cousin had owned her (after the found-empty-at-sea event). I couldn't even find a set of plans.☹️. Good luck There is a plan in the book "Ghost Ship" by Brian Hicks, but it is too small to be of much use.
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Old model shipways USS essex (solid hull)
Papa replied to Mike Esposito's topic in Wood ship model kits
I purchased a yellow box Essex around 1968 or so. It was to be my 3rd Model Shipways model after Young America and News Boy. The instructions are very simple. Essentially: "take the wood in the box and turn it into a model of the Essex." Using the Neophyte Ship Modeler's Jackstay book from MS and later a much more thorough instruction book from MS (forgot the author) and lots of patience and purchasing a bazillion more blocks of various sizes, I finally completed her around 2004. I also built a few plank on frame kits during that time and had to redo work on the Essex as I gained more experience. In the end I have an impressive model of which I am very proud. some pictures are here -
Wow almost 2 months since my last post. Been busy with other projects but I also had a VERY difficult time with the sheer rail at the bow. The laser cut pieces were constantly breaking. Every time i tried to work near the bow my hand would slip or I'd put too much pressure on something and snap, the rail would break along the grain. i think every layer of grain now has been glued together. Finally got it in and inserted the bulwarks; also a difficult task getting them all aligned. I couldn't figure out how to feather the waterway into the ceiling planks without the ceiling planks in place. So I modified the build order and laid a few ceiling planks and this provided a reference to feather the waterway. As one can see in the photo, more sanding is needed for a smooth transition. The Morgan will go on a 10 week hiatus as my wife and i are traveling up to the Canadian Maritime Provinces. Specifically, New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island.
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Hobbyzone building slip for wooden ship models
Papa replied to aydingocer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
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The bow and stern blocks are in and mostly shaped. They still need a bit more shaping, but i will wait until I confirm how the planks will lay down before I take any more wood off.
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I have shaped the counter block and started the transom framing. I made a quick jig, not in picture, to hold the frame piece at the correct angle until the glue dried. I will trim the frame pieces to length when they are all in place. I found the counter block was very difficult to get right. There are a lot of angles and bevels. In fact, I messed one up and had to start again.
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Hobbyzone building slip for wooden ship models
Papa replied to aydingocer's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
The side pieces are an excellent idea. i will have to add those to mine. Ron Gove -
Finished the bulkheads and, following the building instructions, attached temporary battens along the bulkheads verifying that the spacing was identical port and starboard. I did this by cutting spacers that would just fit between bulkheads at the center keel and then used them to properly space the outside. Only tiny adjustments were necessary because I had been very careful to square up the bulkheads as I glued them in place.
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