ScottRC
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Everything posted by ScottRC
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Kenny, I like the details you are providing. So, is your wife's work table next to yours or will you be getting some new tools for Christmas? -
Chris, Great progress. Don't worry about the hull being joined, the decks will fit into it. That was how I did mine. Evergreen Plastic ( is great and comes in all shapes and sizes and comes in packages of about 6 to 20 pieces depending on the shape and size. It is best to use Ambroid or Liquitex liquid cements with it or thin CA. It is a styrene that is soft enough to cut and shape yet it is strong. There are a few builds here and on FSM where modelers have redid all the deck furniture and framing with Evergreen. I have used it a lot in kit bashing and scratch building a number of projects. Scott
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Great pics of the detail you have done in the framing.
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Great progress on Sjors
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Wonderful build log and superb craftsmanship.
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I'm more of a fudgesicle man myself..... I have used them to mix epoxy, stir paint, and even make parts from. Depends on the quality. I one built a replica, or an attempt at, a replica of the Mayflower out of them in the 4th grade for a class diorama of the Plymouth Colony.
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Both the emamels and acrylics can be thinned. Enamels with thinner and I use distilled water for the acrylics. The thing is you don't want the paint to be too thin or it spreads and runs out of control. And that is the secret, to control the flow of the paint off the brush and onto the surface with the paint being thin enough to move up agains the raised surface but not soo fast to where it splashes agaisnt the rasied detail causing unevenness or blobs.
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We who have built this kit a number of times discussed over at the FSM site about the age of the tooling and how it may be affecting the form and fit of the build. I built one kit from one of the first runs and the fit was excellent, the second kit from 1976 and it had a few issues, the current kit I am building is from a release around 1991 and the fit around the stern was tough and the masts were a struggle with many of the parts being replaced with wood. the amount of increase in flashing was a major notice of the kits over the years which is a telling that the tooling is showing its age. For stern painting, and the bow for that matter, I found painting the area with gold or white, first, then filling in the white, and or black backgrounds with a fine, flat tip brush was easier then trying to drybrush and paint the raised gingerbread details. keep the part flat and let gravity fill the corners between the flat surface of the base and the raised detail.
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Hi Wes, Glad to see your back in the shipyard posting your fabulous build. I know the feeling, I lost my father earlier this year and life has been a bag of cats. Great to see the progress although slow as you say. All I've managed to do was a few knots on a yard and some posts here on MSW. Its funny how this site is, folks you don't know from Adam, half a world away, making you feel like you are their next of kin. Scott
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I worked for a guy who's saying was if your desk wasn't full, then you don't have enough work to do.
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Great birthday present Nick. Looks like its going to come in handy with your build.
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Danny, Great work! Scott
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Model Shipways Philadelphia Gunboat -- moved by moderator
ScottRC replied to bebopsteve's topic in Wood ship model kits
Welcome to MSW Bebopsteve, Might ask around in the General Kit Discussion section of this forum. Might get some responses there. This kit has caught my attention several times when looking through my monthly Model Expo flyer. Scott -
Lead won't be a problem, just don't grind it into small particles or suck on the pieces. Pure lead will last forever, it was the lead nickel alloy that turned into a white powder and was more common in the 50's through the 70's. Depending on the condition of the boxes, if they are in mint condition, then look at possibly selling them since anything is good to great condition is worthwhile for collectors, may even contact collectors about trading since you want to build. if stained and battered up boxes, open parts packages, then build them. Ideal, Monogram, Renwall, all produced millions of these models during the war for kids to build as identification models for the war effort. After the war, they continued to market and sell these until the styrene came about in the late 50's.
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Hi Jack, I just came across you build as well and read all 11 pages. What great improvements to this model. I also like your shop and was very interested in the steamer. Kudos on on your craftmanship. Scott
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I'm in the ol easy chair and ready to watch both logs in progress.
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As always Danny, masterful work!
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
ScottRC replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Dang Nenad, are you describing Serbia, or the United States?- 4,152 replies
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These buggars have been in the way throughout the entire build only to be some of the last lines to be set. And now most ofter not used?
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
ScottRC replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Great work Nenad as usual. Don't let the political atmospher get you down. I too am going through some "issues" dealing with government, weather, and family health problems and it seems they all go away when I go into the shop and proceed to tie and seize hundreds of blocks and deadeyes I have been working on. To paraphrase Capt. Aubrey, the ship is its own wooden word and nothing matters outside its wooden walls. That is what ship modeling has been for me. Gee, can't wait till coppering, maybe do that during the next election time or when I get the next insurance "payment denied" notice comes it. Scott- 4,152 replies
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Love the work your doing on this build Vivian. I am fond of the desk and how you applied your stains. Very well balanced. Scott
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Great subject and work Tim.
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Yards and masts look great. Also those ratlines. Keep posting
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Hi Kimberly, You are struggling with two subjects I have the worst time with; painting something white and masking tape bleed. You got the best advice for the masking tape bleed. I use the Tamiya tape and seal methode and have not had any trouble since learning about it. For the white paint, this kit tought me that Krylon primer gray and primer white were my best friends. The last one I built, which was my fourth, I primed all the parts to be dark colrs with primer gray spray paint and all the white parts with primer white spriay paint. After that, brush painting the final coats went on easy with no doulbe coats. The primer also made painting tight areas easier because it gave the paint "grip" so it wouldn't run as easily. Another technique I would like to add in regards to painting the "ginger bread" scroll work and window frame details would be to learn the "dry brush" technique. This is where you take a soft, flat brush, load it with paint, then stroke the brush over a flat piece of paper or cardboard until the brush seems it needs more paint, then take the brush and lightly stroke it across the details you want painted. the coats may seem very light at first, so you will need to repeat the method a few times to get the color to thicken on the detail your are painting.
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