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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Nice to see such an early start (having just finished your last) build Dave. 1/60 is a good scale to work with, just the right size for detail; after your last effort I look forward to what you do here. Now you have embarrassed me into getting going with the Victoria Have a safe and happy festive season and happy modelling in 2017 mate. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Looking great in her new home (cradle) Mark, that came up terrific. Merry christmas and happy modelling in 2017 cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Hi Ed, I started using CA with my Endeavour build some 12 years ago - not knowing any better back then. I used CA (thin) on all the splices, knots etc and they are still holding and have yet to go brittle (they are stiff but not brittle). I know that museums etc do not like this, but they are very slow to update it seems - I know there will be many objections to this comment, but for me time will tell. I have been helping to restore some older models and one of these appeared to have used CA and the knots/splices were not the isssue; rather it was rotten rope. To me, I think the scale rope will rot as quickly as the glue may go brittle. I also coat my knots with Dullcote to reduce the shine of the CA which may further protect the process further. I have yet to find a knot that has let go, or a rope that snapped due to the use of CA. Furthermore, the issues I had were with other items parting (eyes etc) or mostly due to me bumping the part. Whenever I needed to redo a line/knot, a few drops of debonder usually did the trick. I for one simply could not get PA or lacquer to hold my knots, no matter what I did. All that said, you are creating some masterpieces with your models and may not wish to take the risk. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    That's a neat way of doing buoys Denis, thanks for sharing. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Great present Dave, you will have plenty of fun with that. cheers Pat
  6. BANYAN
    That's a heck of a lot of work very nicely done Dave and should make into very nice boats. Thanks for sharing your info and efforts; much appreciated. cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Hi Dave, that is one model to be very proud of, especially haven taken the plunge into carving - I have yet to take that challenge so I dip my hat to you! I found the clean building table nice for a day or two but had to get on with something, even piece-meal, after a week or so; the club's build (HMCSS Victoria now has pride of place but I have yet to do much Enjoy the break and have a safe and happy festive season. I very much look forward to your "Connie"; ast 1:50 that will be a great scale for you to add detail. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    That's looking very good Sjors, a really nice model of Aggy; ...... and many thanks for your consideration - two photos for two eyes - let it be known that I am not a one-eyed critic I am also intrigued, what is that clipped/fixed to the main mast (or is it just a perspective thing with the photo and it is not attached? cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Nice job on those flags Dave; they look great. The model looks superb with all its livery. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    That is a very fine and clean job on the coppering Jason, I especially like the 'touch' of the nails in the batten. Very nice work indeed! cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    That looks very good Dave, just the right amount of detail. cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Hang in there Denis; it will be worth the frustration of construction in the end and provide some more lovely detail! cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    A bit of dust just adds a great patina Sjors; adds to the intrigue We can wait (but not for too much longer ) cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Crikey Greg, that is something else - great work. All those long hours with fiddly repetitive work are showing their fine results. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Hi Pete, again you touch on something I have found in researching HMCSS Victoria. Take a look at page 61 of Rudiments of Naval Architecture.... by James Peake (1851). It is a Google Book free to download as a PDF. Unfortunately, only a line drawing of it, with a supporting text description, but may be of interest? Victoria was fitted with Lang's Scuttles (mentioned on the same page) which removed the need for the Illuminator. The description of the illuminator reads: "Illuminator for light when the port lids are down". So basically just a round glass filled opening Lang's scuttles were conical shaped lumps of glass fitted on the end of a threaded rod, which could be wound in and out of a similarly shaped hole in the hull that would allow light in when open or closed. When open, air could come in around the cone (smallest part outboard). In the Victoria, the size was 5" diameter. As to the opening question - on the same page of this reference (valid in 1851) Peake states: "On the upper deck of line-of-battle ships, and main deck of frigates, the ports are in two parts; the lower one hung with hinges on the lower part of it, called a bucklar, and the upper part a half port to put in by hand". This would imply even in the 1850s, gun port lids were being fitted to the open decks of vessels? cheers pat
  16. BANYAN
    Bad luck with those splices John; not enough tucks? Another milestone completed and shee is looking good! Look forward to seeing all those little details appear. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Looks good Greg, a lot of work gone in there and nothing big to show cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Great idea and good results. Thanks for sharing. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Nice technique with soldering that ring into place Michael. cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Cal, they would also have to be specific to the period of the ship you are modelling - best bet may be to make them yourself? Plenty of guidance and How to in the various logs and some plans in the database. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Sorry there has not been an update for a little while, I am back at the PC drawing up the plans, and continuing the research. I am going to have to ensure a quality build noting the experience and abilities of the build followers cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Congratulations Russ; she looks absolutely grand! I am sure the client will be very thrilled with this model. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Wow what a comeback Glenn, I had been missing your updates. Those skylights are stunning. I will be making some for my Victoria project in the coming year and wish I had CNC. I have the mill but I don't think I would use CNC enough to get value-for-money; may need to investigate a little further noting the great results you achieve. You truly are the master of metal; those 'charley nobles' look great, and a neat construction technique. I am learning so much from following your build log; many thanks! cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Now that you have almost completed your prototype, I'll send over my 'Lanco' for you to adapt Very nice work Wefalck; that will be a very useful mini-machine and a fine addition to your wonderful workshop. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    JT here is a rough copy of such a fan someone posted on this site I think (sorry cannot recall who). These are the proportions by which to reduce square stock to get an octagon (the 10 is the meat that remains). Simply place the square stock on the fan so that the edges of the stock meet the outer edges of the '7' fan lines, then mark the wood with the other lines. The lines should be ruled with a straight edge back towards the centre to reflect the angle of taper rquired. For some yards, not direct to the centre but to the point of transition from straight octagonal to taperered round. These then give you the guide lines to which you reduce the square stock with plane, chisel, file or.... Note: the square stock should be reduced to the appropriate thickness before starting, such that the width of the meat [10] ends up wide enough, that after rounding, is the correct diameter of the round - this takes a little calculation. Always better to err on 'bigger' so that you can reduce; harder to add Once you have the round, even in taper, it is relatively easy to maintain it with further sanding. cheers Pat

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