BANYAN
-
Posts
5,579 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by BANYAN
-
Nice jig Mark, very effective. With such light passes i don't think you will have to worry about wear on the sanding drum causing spacing issues. cheers Pat -
Part 2 - sorry some of the photos are not that well focused in the earlier post. In the following you can see the new solder joints, and the finished results for the port side also. Unfortunately it was impossible to get any shots of the actual soldering operations. Photo 4 (first in this post) shows the third-hand setup which was raised by using solid wood blocks, photo 4 shows the new soldered joints (mid-yard and end-cap are visible (before cleanup and repaint) and photo 5 shows the port side boom completed. cheers Pat
- 517 replies
-
- 13
-
-
- Endeavour
- Artesania Latina
- (and 1 more)
-
Hi again folks. Well I just couldn't live with the incorrect location of the studding sail booms (aft of the yard rather than forward as shown in photo 1), so I attempted to fix the location of the studding booms on the fore lower yard. I decided the best way was to try and fix it in-situ, as completely unrigging it would have been problematic. This brought about another complication in that it would be impossible to lash/bend the inboard ends of the boom as they were very close to the mast and quite difficult to get at. Having experimented a little, I found the best way was to actually use thin CA on the inboard lashings to hold them in shape. I then used a little acetone to weaken the bond on the yard. I am not sure what the long term effects of this process will be on the scale rope, but I am hopeful. This was the only way I could find to ensure the lashing held its shape while I rotated them. I decided to cut/snip the end cap iron and was then able to slide the studding boom out, but unfortunately, not without braking the solder joints on the mid-yard arm irons. As you can see from the photos, the lashings held their shape very well when I rotated them forward. I then rotated the mid-yard arm iron forward also, rest the studding boom and held it in place with a soft peg while I resoldered the the mid-yard arm joints. I then used a third hand (from GRS) to hold the end iron in place and resoldered them also. This process was only possible due to using a resistance soldering unit which gave me total control over the placement and level of heat. Overall a satisfactory result, but I will need to clean-up and stain the yards again as the acetone wrecked the finish - this was unavoidable but an acceptable result. The part one photos show the start of the process, through to the reinstall of the boom. The same process was carried out for both sides. Photo 1 shows the incorrectly positioned studding sail boom; photo 2 shows the end cap iron cut ready for the removal process (sorry a little out of focus); and photo 3 shows the repositioned boom held temporarily in place for soldering the mid-yard iron. cheers Pat
- 517 replies
-
- 12
-
-
- Endeavour
- Artesania Latina
- (and 1 more)
-
Very nice Druxey, she looks like she is floating in the air. cheers Pat
- 641 replies
-
- 7
-
-
- greenwich hospital
- barge
- (and 1 more)
-
Your efforts have paid of Cristi, those decorations look really good. cheers Pat
-
Looking really good Jason. Yep agree with your interpretation of British naval practice for the aft to forward direction, but according to my info, the plates overlapped by 1.5" on the upper and after edges. This method/system resulted with the overlap of the plates on the trailing end/edge (much like fish scales as suggested above). The purpose for the upper edge overlap is so that when the ship ploughed down into a wave there would be less resistance on the leading edge of the plate (less pressure in the vertical dimension = less chance of separation). cheers Pat
-
Looking good Dave. I used .25mm on mine as it wrapped around the ring better. cheers Pat
-
A belated happy Birthday "young" fella I hope you had a wonderful day (and spoiled rotten). Oh, and the railings and rooftop look very grand; a great fit! cheers Pat
-
Incredible detail at that scale mate; you'll be trying out with a grain of rice before long cheers Pat
-
That's a bit of a 'rum' (odd) deal on the Admiralty paint Glenn; a bit greedy of them packaging it like you say. I could get it (well I haven't tried for a while) as individual bottles no problems her, but not worth you effort as the postage from here would kill off any savings even if you did go with it. The Ronan flake white looks good though and the lighter coating (wash) helps show the details very well. cheers Pat
-
You don't muck around with these builds do you Greg! This will be a great looking model. cheers Pat
- 342 replies
-
- 6
-
-
- dreadnought
- zvezda
- (and 2 more)
-
Very nice rework; better to fix now then try to live with the consequences later cheers Pat
-
Stunning detail and quality Glenn. Druxey, more to the point I bet those lock sets are fully functioning really nice turning detail at that scale. cheers Pat
-
O boy, am I the poorer for not looking into this build earlier Antony; beautiful work! A very interesting subject, and excellent execution especially noting you have built from photographs and scant information. cheers Pat
- 99 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- turtle ship
- korean
- (and 1 more)
-
That is some very outstanding workmanship and a beautiful model Gaetan cheers Pat
- 728 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- le fleuron
- 64 gun
- (and 1 more)
-
Ah the fix of the weekly update. Simply stunning work Glenn. That is some very clean, crisp and well executed joinery. cheers Pat
-
Great to see this update Ben, coming along nicely. cheers Pat
-
Thanks Popeye and John. Managed to fix one of the yards (stunsail booms but not the other yet ). Thanks for the compliment John, coming from you it is much appreciated. cheers Pat
- 517 replies
-
- 4
-
-
- Endeavour
- Artesania Latina
- (and 1 more)
-
Your riggers have been very busy Dave; nice work - double rum ration for them i would suggest! cheers pat
Our Emblem ®
