BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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Many thanks Pat
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Thanks for the feedback guys. John and Mark, that appears to be a solution (faking it ) but, if possible I wish to do them properly and may have conceived a method which I describe below. i will certainly revert to this if i cannot get the real deal to work. Allan, many thanks. I read that info after posting and it gave me a couple of ideas. My rigging actually works, so I intend to lower the temporary 'stub' yard and fit the actual yard to the lifts/slings while in a lowered position to gain more manoeuvre room. I will make up the parrels as described by David in the TFFM and temporarily hold the parrel assembly together with some sacrificial light cotton thread wrapped around the hollow in the ribs. I will then tie/size one end of the parrel ropes (with the eyes) around the yard on one side of the mast, wrap the rope and parrel around the mast then loosely tie the other end of the ropes around the yard on the other side of the mast and haul these as taut as i can allowing some room for the parrel to slide up the mast. I will then raise the yard into position, tighten the parrel and then wrap the ropes as described by David. One further point raised by a member off-line is the handling of the tail ends. Do the tail ends of these parrel ropes tie off on the parrel, or are they led via block to the deck to allow them to be re-tensioned or loosened as required to work the yard? I'll see if this method work for me and advise. Thanks again all for the very helpful info. cheers Pat
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Very nice Ulises; that paint effect on the decorations looks very effective. cheers Pat- 786 replies
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Thanks Mark and S - I did that with the jib etc and intended to do so for the lower yards at least, but my real issue is fitting the parrels. To fit these correctly they need to be threaded on the bottom row first, then a loop taken around the yard and the top row threaded (or vice versa) then around the other side of the yard; then the whole assembly must be pulled taut and several passes of the line made around the parrels and the yard. That is my issue - how to achieve this without damaging anything, as some force is necessary to pull the parrels taut around the mast after threading. Even the threading will be very difficult in such a tight space. i would be very interested in any techniques people have used for this? Sorry guys, my initial question was not specific enough and you have answered my initial question. cheers Pat
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Very effective solution to the fuse removal issue Glenn, a tricky job made easier and safer. Your skills are superb mate; the engines and boilers are miniature works of engineering art! Always a pleasure to visit your log (and drool ) cheers Pat
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How come I find your logs well after you have started Rusty (my fault for not being diligent enough) - great looking build (again). the deck looks spotless; really nice! cheers Pat
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Hi folks, I am starting the final stages of fitting the spars to my Endeavour and I have finally fully dressed the lower fore yard ready for fitting. The slings are in place on the mast head / trees but I am trying to figure out how to fit the parrels to hold the yard to the mast without damaging the rigging (very little working room). Any suggestions for a method/technique welcomed cheers Pat
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Those gallery windows look great Mark; persistence will pay off. A boon that you o not have to program the drawings (a la CNC); it seems the laser cutter is a great tool/asset to have for this type of work. cheers Pat
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Greg, she is looking fabulous mate - nice work with all the additional detail. Glad to hear the handle didn't cause much damage. cheers Pat
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Fiddly indeed, but you got there cheers Pat
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Well mate, considering you have "thrown" the boats on; they have turned out very great I agree, no use risking breakages in trying to put on the 'gripes' for each boat - you can always say that the ship is prepped rerady for entering/leaving harbour when sea gripes and coverings would have been removed. Nice work! cheers Pat
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Cheaper freight??? let us in on the secret mate - things have jumped exorbitantly this side of the ditch cheers Pat
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Thanks Druxey, it has been a pleasure to follow-along as well. cheers (and beers) Pat
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Very nice work Mark, they look like they will form excellent bases for your galleries. cheers Pat
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They're coming along really well mate; he'll be paddlin' along before you know it. cheers Pat
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Those schooners had beautiful lines Russ; you have done a very good job in bringing these to life in your model. cheers Pat
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Some nice rigging work there Dave. Glad you liked the work station - mine was a version developed from the "Crab" built by the late Hubert Sicard - he has some great material on his website "wooden ships for dummies". His site is still up but I am not sure if you can enter if you were not a member at the time of his passing. cheers Pat
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Hi Ulises, the method for measuring mast and jib boom / bowsprit angles is also dependent on what tools (levels) you have. I think what you have done verifies you are in the ballpark. One method I use is very similar top your approach, in that I ensure the work surface and waterline are parallel. I then use a digital angle level/protractor which I zero on the work surface and then place on the spar to be measured and read off the angle (adjusting the alignment chocks etc as I go to achieve the correct angle). Another, more crude method I have used is to print off a paper protractor (series of lines at regularly spaced intervals). I stick this to a temporary holder (scrap wood) then use a plumb-bob to align a true perpendicular and adjust the paper protractor to the required orientation and perpendicular alignment. Then read off the spar angle against the lines. Again you need to ensure the work surface and the waterline are parallel and preferably level. I hope that makes sense. I used this method until I purchased the digital angle level which are quite affordable - very often on special for a few dollars at our local hardware outlets such as Bunnings (in Australia). This image of one is taken from an eBay advertisement; it differs from mine in that the bubble level on the top is an additional enhancement. I have not ties etc with this provider with the image used only to illustrate the device. cheers Pat
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You're not mucking around, your progress is impressive! cheers Pat
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Hi Druxey, exquisite work! WRT suggestions on Operational display of oars - if there are no crew then not operational? A feathered display might be more realistic? just an opinion - and how else would a viewer appreciate the full detail of those miniature masterpieces? cheers Pat
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Solder and brass blackening
BANYAN replied to Cabbie's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Chris - For soldering paste (silver and copper) I use Australian Jewellers Supplies / House of Jewellery - http://jewellerssupplies.com.au/soldering-welding-c-95.html?__utma=187725425.995140569.1462256671.1462256671.1462256671.1&__utmb=187725425.0.10.1462256671&__utmc=187725425&__utmx=-&__utmz=187725425.1462256671.1.1.utmcsr=google|utmccn=(organic)|utmcmd=organic|utmctr=(not%20provided)&__utmv=-&__utmk=163156796 They may have some other things you might need also. Try ringing them; I have found them to be very helpful in determining exactly what you need etc (but unfortunately, they are slightly expensive). As to Birchwood Casey Blackening; I bought a large bottle ( more than a lifetimes supply) from a gun shop in Western Melbourne somewhere at a very reasonable price. If interested I can try and track down the name of the place. cheers Pat -
Nice work Keith, the ornamentations looks great. Glad to see you have come to grips with the positioning and size of the ports. cheers Pat
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