BANYAN

Thanks for the promt response Harvey, helps a lot and I appreciate your feed back. I had hoped Wayne may look in I have set a target to reread his tutorial this weekend. WRT full size loft - Yep! Only way to go as you have suggested. I am also using the trick of the extended lines, but wished to avoid the constant zooming. The other trick I have found is to bring the other layers/objects to the front (viewing) is to click the eyeball off/on for the associated image layer, this brings the the dimension and alignment lines to front again. The benefit is that I have found drawings of some of the ship's equipment/fittings which are drawn to scale which I can import and resize to the real dimensions and then align them before tracing over them (e.g. I know the chain cable was 1.5" diameter, so the drawings of the capstan can be rescaled until the chain is 1.5" and then the capstan should be to actual size also. I wasn't aware of the Scale X/Ypicks, I need to investigate that a bit more - I am assuming this is scaling down / up in factors with 1 = 100%. When you say 'lock' the ratio aspect is that the button / tool for ' keep aspect' or something similar; in the local menu? (in TC 20 anyway). OR, is it like the little lock that locks the field value in the inspector bar? Is that the place this Aspect tool lives also? Anyway, back to the TC forum to investiogate the Scale picks now - thanks. [Edit - Havrvey tried the scale pick boxes and they worked a treat for rescaling concentric odd shaped items such as skylights, not as helpful as for the rescasling of the larger images though] cheers Pat

Hi, I am a relative newbie to CAD (using TurboCAD 20 Deluxe) and believe I am going about the scaling process the wrong way. Could anyone please advise the best way to scale an imported picture which I intend to use to trace, or take alignment lines from. I am trying to draw the deck arrangements for a ship (one-of -a-kind design) but very similar to the gun despatch vessels of the mid-nineteenth century. I have already imported the deck plans for two of this class as well as a photo (adjusted) which I use to trace and/or align to draw the deck fittings/arrangements. To date my routine has been to create a layer with dimensions (real-world scale) shown. I then import the image, rotate it to get it level and then manually adjust it (takes a lot of fiddly adjustments but eventually I get there) so that the picture fits to the required scale (as drawn on the Dimensions layer - usually the length between verticals with elongated perpendicular ends). This process is difficult as when the object (layer) to be scaled is selected it comes to the fore and hides the underlying dimensions/scale layer. Sending it to the back is not the same as layer management in say Photoshop, as in this case it is the objects that are sent to the back (which can be on the same layer). Is there an easier way? I was hoping to try and draw a line on the imported picture (say between the verticles), lock/merge/group this line with the picture, and then set the line's length via the properties/values for line length hoping this would then scale the grouped photo with it - BUT this does not seem to work (or more likely I am doin git all wrong ). Also, is there anyway in TurboCAD to make layers semi-transparent when working with them so I that can see the image/lines under the selected object while manipulating them? A lot to ask but I have been unable to find anything in the set-up or preference3s etc to do this. I would very much value any ideas or tips from you experienced folks? cheers Pat

Very nice work on the planksheers Danny. And - that's not cheating - its being 'creative' or practical cheers Pat

Careful Keith, you'll be a tool' aholic before you know it You may even need to sell off some of that supurb sound equipment to buy the tools WRT to developing your skills, you've come a long way but I know what you mean. I look at my Endeavour and just wish I could redo some of the very early work again. But like you, I have accepted it for what it is and I can live with it, and will strive for better in the next build. If you are looking for a smaller project have a look at / maybe consider the Longboat or Cutter kits (from Model Expo) that Chuck designed. Quite a nice project that brings in some interesting build challenges? cheers Pat p.s. Don't be too concerned if not too many people coimment in your log - you probably get a lot more visitors that read the page but don't comment. There are a lot of build logs and I only comment in about 10 myself (not enough time for others but they do deserve looking at - purely time management), but I do realise it is nice to get some acknowledgement for your efforts at times

Thanks Greg; on the model then cheers Pat

Very nice work on your rigging Greg, she is coming along really nicely. I am due an update (you have shamed me into it ) as I have stepped the lower masts and made a start on the rigging. Did you do your crows-feet while the mast was off or when stepped? Iam trying to decide which is easier cheers Pat

She came up very nicely Keith, the woven sail reinforcements look good - glad you put that detail in. I love that little flourish on the display stand with the anchor did that come with the kit or an enhancement you made? cheers Pat

A very nice model Ilhan, very well executed and presented. cheers Pat

Very nice detail work Gary (as usual ) cheers Pat

Hi Keith, great to see you post your build. You've made remarkable progress and it is looking good. cheers Pat

Those are some very neat seizings on the gun tackles Danny. I also very much like the colour of the rope in one of the photos; is that the actual colour of the rope made by Chuck and a few of the other photos justshowing them a little washed out? If so, that would be the most realistic rendering of manilla rope I have seen (sisal would have been to stiff for this application). cheers Pat

Hi Nirvana, as Brian says your's looks a good profiler. I also have made good use of one; it is metal but is a little "stiff" and takes a bit of mucking around pushing individual needles to get the best contour. Your's appears to have a tensioning knob on the ends? If it does, where did you get it please? cheers Pat

Ah, but John, that is mostly 'traditional' merchant Navy routine. In warships they would more than likely have had a hitch; the latter is still practised that way in the 'steel' Navy. if you look in the old (and new) Admiralty Manuals of Seamanship they show it only with the hitch/loop pulled through from the standing end and over the pin, cleat or staghorn etc. So it depends on the ship being modelled I think. cheers Pat

Slowly but surely John; all is looking good. cheers Pat

Great to see this lady back Russ; and ....to see you back also cheers Pat

Good to see you back at the build again Wayne - now, I just need to motivate myself also cheers Pat

Nice work Danny, those timber colours compliment each other very nicely Pat

Sinan, but first check the caliper is accurate first Mine were out and I have just invested in a "Certifed" digital readout Caliper. Per, the other trick is to check them for straightness. I believe the check is done by using one edge to draw a line then flip the ule vertically (same edge but running the other way) and draw another line over that and see if they are coincident - repeat for the other edge. I use a square or solid base to rest the ruler on but you need to be sure the bases (short edges) of the ruler are square also. There used to be a good write-up on MSW 1 ... another lost .... cheers Pat

Glad to see this build come to fruition John. I'll be taking great interest in this due to the restoration of the pearling lugger down here. Good luck with the build. cheers Pat

Hi folks, further to my last post, I am now wondering how many of us have taken the time to check if the measurement determined by the caliper is actually accurate (at purchase and then at intervals) - I certainly didn't I will now be checking my next purchase for a reasonable degree of accuracy, and ensure I check it reasonably regularly to ensure a consistent measurement accuracy as well as confidence in the caliper. For most uses in ship modelling, having a super-accurate readout is not that important, but a reasonable degree of 'consistent' accuracy from these tools is important I think? cheers Pat

Hi Jay, yep, I have the same understanding of zeroising (the readout) not the tool itself. However, as I said the unusual thing is that if I measure the same article/item, all three give a different result. I understand that if I zero the readout, the amount of movement is relative to the starting point (zero) and therefore all readings should be the same. The micrometer (which has been tested/calibrated and certified) I trust to be the most accurate. The readout given by the Imperial (fractional) digital readout calipers is not far off, but the cheaper (version/type most folk seem to be using) are out a bit. I have noticed that when the jaws are fully closed on the metric calipers and I 'zero' the readout, the etched vernier scale on the main slide (?) is out (not registering on the 0 line) and it is very close to the difference in accuracy of the measurement between the micrometer and the caliper also. This is the enigma - if the readout measures the relative movement to calculate the 'measurement', it should be accurate no matter what? Essentially, I believe that after a while the caliper readout of the measurement may become suspect, possibly wear on the internal parts? I am not sure how the distance reading is converted to the digital readout value, but I am beginning to think that the mechanical component of the sensor (or however it is done) may wear over time and that is why I am getting the slight error in measurement. This became evident after having to remeasure my micro-drills on several occasions as one caliper gave me one reading, and the other a different. A couple of hundreths (when rounded) makes a difference in determining whether to use the drill as say a 0.9 or 0.85mm drill. I double checked these sizings with a gauge plate (not the most accurate means) but the results using the micrometer were much better than using the metric calipers. I have reverted to using my micrometer until I get a better quality caliper (with digital readout) and I will be sure to check how accurate they are first this time cheers Pat

Hi, I have two sets, one metric the other Imperial (Fractions) and until recently I used them all the time until I became aware of a small problem I have yet to resolve. I was wondering why some of my measurements were very slightly out and finally recognised that the calipers were not truely zeroed (they differed from each other and from a "engineer" certified quality miocrometer). We are only talking a few hundredths here so it is not critical for many jobs; but I would love to know how to truely zero these? (I can reset the readout to zero, but the inscribed vernier scale is not zero when the jaws are fully closed (this is verified by the micrometer which indicates / measures a difference in size equivelant to the difference shown on that scale.) CraigB@ thanks for the reminder in your earlier post which alerted me to this possibility; I think I may have to invest in a better quality metric version; the Imperial measurement version is slightly out, but much better and I can live with it. cheers Pat

And a belated from me also John, I have been a tad distracted lately and hadn't caught up. This little beauty is up there with your previous builds mate. a right little lady of the sea! cheers pat

Very nice work work work on those sails even if you are not completely happy with them. They look quite good and amazing to think it is paper. A nice collection of small rigging tools also; the micro crochet needle is a surprise. Where did you find that? (don't tell me watchmakers use it ) cheers Pat

Rowan failing that, there is a shop over there called DCC Concepts. He carries Carrs Brass Black (well used to anyway). No affiliation etc...... cheers Pat