BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by Bitao - FINISHED - 1:72
BANYAN replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Stunning work as usual mate; I am very impressed with the consistent high quality of your joinery - this is an exceptional build! I very much enjoy seeing your updates and especially the specialised tools you create. cheers Pat- 257 replies
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If you call that crude I still feel ever so inadequate with my level of skills. I have had to remind myself on several occasions that I was looking at a model and not the real cabin. Exceptional work Michael. cheers Pat
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YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by Bitao - FINISHED - 1:72
BANYAN replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
It's always a pleasure to see updates to your build; very nice clean work as usual. cheers Pat- 257 replies
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Michael, that is exceptional work; I'll try to find some room in that hole also - us mere mortals can just observe and stand in wonderment. cheers Pat
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I understand the confusion and frustration you are feeling (undergoing a similar issue with researching my Victoria rigging from scratch ) Those translated booklets can sometimes add even further frustration. As to the book, it would all depend on whether you wish to build another model of this period and type - the Book "AOTS - The Armed Transport Bounty" has many plans including the usual full rigging plan on the inside of the cover; so if you do decide to get it, make sure the jacket is included. Here are two sample pictures from the web for it: cheers Pat
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Dave, Amati (and many other older ship model manufacturer's/kits) plans are somewhat simplified and often just show the step/rigging of the lines being indicated for that step and not the others rigged in the same vicinity etc. If you do not have it, I would recommend a copy of the AOTS Bounty book which shows the rigging in much more detail. That said, you still need to look at all sections and illustrations (for standing, running etc) of these drawings to get the 'full' picture as the research behind the rigging is much deeper - in some instances may not even marry-up with the Amati plans. It is not easy as you are finding, especially for a first time builder of this style of ship. You are very much on track in trying to rig as much rigging and fittings to the spars before assembly, this certainly helps. There is no easy way around this unfortunately. It's your choice if you want to go the 'simplified path' as shown by Amati, especially if you are treating this as a leaning experience. However, you will need to look at both the standing and running rigging fittings on the different sheets/plans to get some feel. Often, as you are finding, the plan sheets differ in that a single or double block is shown in the same vicinity - depending on what rigging sheet you are looking at, these may be different blocks used for different purposes. From your description I think you have figured that the blocks shown are actually just one (each) of pairs of blocks rigged to the top over the trestletrees using a long strop with blocks seized into their ends (only showing the blocks on one side). The block with 3 holes being the upper block of a 'winding' tackle which is feasible (but unusual) but is dependent on its intended use (looks like it is used with the lifts in this instance). It is possible the other 2 hole blocks are for another purpose but rigged in the same position? Would need to follow the number identifiers to ascertain this (assuming the numbers on all sheets are to the same legend). cheers Pat
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That's why we export it; no one here wants it cheers Pat
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Steven, that is some nice detail that adds a lot of visual interest to the model. cheers Pat
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Another great choice of subject matter Greg; look forward to this one. Can I ask why 'Zulu' and not one of the Aussie ships? There must be a wealth of info available for the Aussie ones? cheers Pat
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Michael, to the eye those mismatched dimensions are not discernible, so more kudos your way in figuring all that out. Looks like you have a nice fit now. cheers Pat
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Very nice work Alex, everything is so nicely symmetrical and uniformly shaped. cheers Pat
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No problem Dave; just glad you find some of the info useful. I have tried the waxed with some reasonable results (but not on an actual model as yet). I try to get the silk stuff, which by and large doesn't need to be waxed. I tend to stay away from prewaxed as the wax tends to seal the thread making it harder to secure the ends (varnish/glue). The overall driving thing for me is size as the small size stuff, even f not glace/defuzzed is so small, and usually wound so tight the fuzz either does not show much or is very easy to remove if it does show. If you have any dedicated 'fly fishing shops' in the vicinity a visit may be worth you while. My local guy here did not stock silk thread but did offer to get it in if he could. I still have enough so have not taken up the offer yet. There was a recent thread (title is not coming to me at the moment) where someone helpfully identified a source for it (and other fishing/boating related thread). If I run across it again I will post a link. For the cotton/silk sewing threads I contacted the importer direct (by email) and they were very helpful. If you are interested I have put together an article on threads for my club; happy to send you a copy - just PM me if you are interested. cheers Pat
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You're a braver man than me 'Gunga Din' - great results though Michael - look forward to to seeing the new doors. cheers Pat
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YOUNG AMERICA 1853 by Bitao - FINISHED - 1:72
BANYAN replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
My condolences also Bitao, I hope you find some peace in her blessing of a long life. regards Pat- 257 replies
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Sorry for the delayed response Dave. For serving, I use sewing machine or fly tying (silk) threads - Gutterman usually - the thinnest I can find. A lot of the actual serving was done with 'spunyarn' probably of 12 thread or smaller size ( I have yet to determine the exact size of a 'thread' back then However, I have found that the thinnest sewing threads (good quality) glace (defuzzed) works quite well for me. If you can find good quality fly tying threads even better - they come in very fine sizes. cheers Pat
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I do the same as Gunther. BE - Good tip on reducing the size of the host line to compensate for over scaling the serving thread. cheers Pat
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Nice work Eberhard, and inspiring also. I think I may revisit my davits and try something similar. cheers Pat
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Com'on Steven, you have to be happy with that result considering the age and scale of the model, but more importantly your goal of not altering the 'look and feel' of what you built back then. I think you have done a terrific job. cheers Pat
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Nice work Greg, she looks very much the hard-worked modern ship (the Goldie-locks look - not too much, not too little) cheers Pat
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Even with your admission Michael, they are still a work of art worthy of a watchmaker. cheers Pat
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