BANYAN

Dave, Amati (and many other older ship model manufacturer's/kits) plans are somewhat simplified and often just show the step/rigging of the lines being indicated for that step and not the others rigged in the same vicinity etc. If you do not have it, I would recommend a copy of the AOTS Bounty book which shows the rigging in much more detail. That said, you still need to look at all sections and illustrations (for standing, running etc) of these drawings to get the 'full' picture as the research behind the rigging is much deeper - in some instances may not even marry-up with the Amati plans. It is not easy as you are finding, especially for a first time builder of this style of ship. You are very much on track in trying to rig as much rigging and fittings to the spars before assembly, this certainly helps. There is no easy way around this unfortunately. It's your choice if you want to go the 'simplified path' as shown by Amati, especially if you are treating this as a leaning experience. However, you will need to look at both the standing and running rigging fittings on the different sheets/plans to get some feel. Often, as you are finding, the plan sheets differ in that a single or double block is shown in the same vicinity - depending on what rigging sheet you are looking at, these may be different blocks used for different purposes. From your description I think you have figured that the blocks shown are actually just one (each) of pairs of blocks rigged to the top over the trestletrees using a long strop with blocks seized into their ends (only showing the blocks on one side). The block with 3 holes being the upper block of a 'winding' tackle which is feasible (but unusual) but is dependent on its intended use (looks like it is used with the lifts in this instance). It is possible the other 2 hole blocks are for another purpose but rigged in the same position? Would need to follow the number identifiers to ascertain this (assuming the numbers on all sheets are to the same legend). cheers Pat

That's why we export it; no one here wants it cheers Pat

Steven, that is some nice detail that adds a lot of visual interest to the model. cheers Pat

Another great choice of subject matter Greg; look forward to this one. Can I ask why 'Zulu' and not one of the Aussie ships? There must be a wealth of info available for the Aussie ones? cheers Pat

Michael, to the eye those mismatched dimensions are not discernible, so more kudos your way in figuring all that out. Looks like you have a nice fit now. cheers Pat

Very nice work Alex, everything is so nicely symmetrical and uniformly shaped. cheers Pat

Ah, but that scratch adds some real authenticity Looks good Michael. cheers Pat

Looking good there Keith, ready for the riggers to get to wrk? cheers Pat

No problem Dave; just glad you find some of the info useful. I have tried the waxed with some reasonable results (but not on an actual model as yet). I try to get the silk stuff, which by and large doesn't need to be waxed. I tend to stay away from prewaxed as the wax tends to seal the thread making it harder to secure the ends (varnish/glue). The overall driving thing for me is size as the small size stuff, even f not glace/defuzzed is so small, and usually wound so tight the fuzz either does not show much or is very easy to remove if it does show. If you have any dedicated 'fly fishing shops' in the vicinity a visit may be worth you while. My local guy here did not stock silk thread but did offer to get it in if he could. I still have enough so have not taken up the offer yet. There was a recent thread (title is not coming to me at the moment) where someone helpfully identified a source for it (and other fishing/boating related thread). If I run across it again I will post a link. For the cotton/silk sewing threads I contacted the importer direct (by email) and they were very helpful. If you are interested I have put together an article on threads for my club; happy to send you a copy - just PM me if you are interested. cheers Pat

You're a braver man than me 'Gunga Din' - great results though Michael - look forward to to seeing the new doors. cheers Pat

My condolences also Bitao, I hope you find some peace in her blessing of a long life. regards Pat

Sorry for the delayed response Dave. For serving, I use sewing machine or fly tying (silk) threads - Gutterman usually - the thinnest I can find. A lot of the actual serving was done with 'spunyarn' probably of 12 thread or smaller size ( I have yet to determine the exact size of a 'thread' back then However, I have found that the thinnest sewing threads (good quality) glace (defuzzed) works quite well for me. If you can find good quality fly tying threads even better - they come in very fine sizes. cheers Pat

I do the same as Gunther. BE - Good tip on reducing the size of the host line to compensate for over scaling the serving thread. cheers Pat

Nice work Eberhard, and inspiring also. I think I may revisit my davits and try something similar. cheers Pat

Com'on Steven, you have to be happy with that result considering the age and scale of the model, but more importantly your goal of not altering the 'look and feel' of what you built back then. I think you have done a terrific job. cheers Pat

Nice work Greg, she looks very much the hard-worked modern ship (the Goldie-locks look - not too much, not too little) cheers Pat

Even with your admission Michael, they are still a work of art worthy of a watchmaker. cheers Pat

Wow - gob smacked! Incredible work Michael. cheers Pat

I am building a model of a ship launched in 1855 in which extensive use was made of wire and chain. The Rigging Warrant for the ship confirms much of what has been discussed by other posters above. In the Rigging Warrant it clearly lists when wire rope or chain rigging was to be 'tailed' with a hemp rope. In this ship all standing rigging was wire rope and terminated by being turned on metal thimbles and seized back on themselves, so they could be shackled, hooked, set-up to rigging screws or rigmaiden lanyards (replaced deadeyes). Those elements of the running rigging that were wirerope or chain, such as halliards, sheets etc, were all tailed with rope where they went to belaying pins, cleats etc. The topmast yard halliards were made of chain tailed with wire rope that went direct to to purchase winches. As John points out, more extensive use was made of wire with the passage of time in clipper ships but I cannot comment on how these wire ropes were terminated or belayed as I simply do not have that knowledge or experience. cheers Pat

An excellent tutorial Paul, thanks for posting this. Does he also do one of the same quality for photoetching ? cheers Pat

Dang, that look so good Michael - congrats on your promotion from apprentice. Now if you don't mind doing a full parlour and officers quarters for a mid-19th century vessel ....... cheers Pat

Ron, now you've done it - Pandora's box has been opened Let me add: clothes pegs, hair clips and bulldog clips as clamps cheers Pat

Must agree with Tony, you will have to forgive us for reusing the same terms repeatedly. Clinical detail and finish; a joy to look at Pat

That's an interesting 'tid bit' of info Roger, many thanks. cheers Pat

Shipman, not as 'default' setup. You have to do a search in the 'add ins' and add it - if I recall correctly one of the better ones was IMTranslator (or something similar) - sorry a while since I used FF.