BANYAN
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Everything posted by BANYAN
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OK Keith, now you have done it - I am just going to crawl into the corner, sit there and drool. The detailing you are doing is top notch! cheers Pat -
You're doing some great work there Steven, it's difficult to keep within your specified need to retain some of the old look-and-feel while restoring the model, but you are doing a fine jo of it. cheers Pat
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What a great looking model, your client should be well pleased. cheers Pat
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Hi again D. As promised here are the photos which may give you an idea what to look for. Unfortunately, there is no brand or even makers name on it at all. I got this from a mate who bought them in a deal (he buys end of line lots, seconds etc). The twin LEDs in this one don't work unfortunately, but I really don't need them. The magnifier (yellow arrow) is very clear, bright and about 4x so I get a great magnification (may be even better as I may be a little underestimating the zoom/mag factor) of the viewing area (green arrow). I think it is set up in the factory to the scale you want. Mine is for mm, but there are three other scales around the sides but I have not tried to change it. As you can see you twist the knob to wind the pointer/needle (red arrow) with the screw being a very fine thread so lots of control. The whole 'kaboodle' folds and is stored in a pouch to protect it. When I next see my mate I will ask if he has any more. cheers Pat
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No problem, I also forgot to mention, I don't mind working from any part of the lines, as long as I remember to use the same point consistently. I'll try an dget that photo later today. cheers Pat
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D, what I do is use the calipers or 'calibrated' ruler (one that has been checked and certified accurate to a 'poomteenth' - sorry for the techo jibber jabber) and mark the closest full centimiter on the plan, etc then I have this viewing/magnifying glass that has a little calibrated pointer and scale on the bottom that allows me to wind the needle/pointer to exactly where I need it. That gives me a very accurate measurement overall. I don't have an issue transfering this to wood etc with a good caliper (I use Mitutoyo -Japanese) calipers which are very accurate). I'll try an remember to take a photo and get more info on that viewer/magnifier for you. cheers Pat
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You leave me grasping for the appropriate superlatives yet again Keith; that is some extraordinary detailing you have achieved. Don't worry about 'dotting' about when you show us this quality of craftsmanship. Impressed! Pat
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You have a very nice collection of builds there Schrader, and this little beauty will just enhance it further. cheers Pat
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Great to see the keel laying Joss; but I seem to have missed the ceremony Great process that results in very clean well mating joints. cheers Pat
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Nice work Al, those boats look great - the clinker work is excellent. Are these done pre or during you arm issues? cheers Pat
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That has to be the best backdrop I have ever seen - well presented and executed. cheers Pat
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A great result on those anchors Eberhard. A very effective process you came up with; I would not have liked to cut those out of sheet stock also The drawings and process would be equally effective using PE also I think. cheers Pat
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That is a great backdrop for your model, very much in theme for telling the full story. cheers Pat
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Thanks for your response masa, and to Wefalck for the additional info on its properties - I think I will scratch that as an option from my list. It looks beading wire may be the way ahead at the moment. An interesting topic, many thanks for raising it masa. cheers Pat
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If you have a lot of room for improvement Keith, I am going to need an eternity to catch up That is some very nice detailing. cheers Pat
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Ah, but you do like a challenge don't you? Looking good so far. cheers Pat
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I can't help you with the wire composition Masa, but it has piqued my interest as I have some wire rigging to do very soon. I became a little concerned when you mentioned its heat/fire issue though. Although you would not put a model that close to a heat source, what about inadvertent temperature rises caused by light beaming through windows etc. Like you, I would be very interested in the properties as I was wondering how to source suitably sized wire. May I also ask why you are seeking a black finish to the wire? My understanding is that wirerope was treated with boiled linseed oil which, after some time would build up and make the wire darker, probably a silvery brown (darker in the grooves. Sections of the wire were parceled and served (not wormed) so will have been darker again in those sections? cheers Pat
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Rob, I know that you previously mentioned a deep hull, but did not realise how so until seeing the last batch of photos. WRT the compound, I am assuming you have done trials yto enure the outer planking will glue to it OK? cheers Pat
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Thanks for that Keith, had not thought on beading wire - will need to check that out also. cheers Pat
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OK we'll be generous, have a make-n-mend also, and as we're in a good mood, you can also have an extra tot cheers Pat
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Haven't lost me Rob, there is more than one way to achieve the same outcome. AS you are looking for hull form, what type of planking technique you use is entirely up to you. cheers Pat
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Another masterful example of your skills Eberhard; they look great! A very nice addition of detail. cheers Pat
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Thanks Alan, I 'll keep a copy for future projects. Much appreciated. cheers Pat
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