Gregory

3 hours ago, allanyed said:

Lots of options including the three below.

I don't see any detail regarding the attaching of the breech rope to the gunwale.

42 minutes ago, popeye2sea said:

USS Constitution 1797

 

1997, maybe?  That breech rope looks decorative rather than functional.

On 4/7/2024 at 2:03 PM, Geograndpa said:

Does anyone know what cm stands for in the Mamoli instruction material key? Thanks in advance.

Which kit.

16 minutes ago, kgstakes said:

(don’t think 1/8-1/4) but maybe

At worst it would score it and make for easier cutting with other tools.  I used to do that with a low power laser.

Just checked the latest Cricut model.  It says bass 2.4mm thick, so that will include 3/32..  

Did I miss where you indicated the height of your seaman?

Google tells me the average height in 18th century was 65”..

2 hours ago, mediocremodeler said:

.637 to .425

Feet?  Inches?  Meters?

Here is the WIKI take on it.

Sloop Polychrest

FWIW, here is a drawing from Petersson.

Keep in mind that Petersson's reference is a contemporary model of  Melampus, 1785, 36 gun frigate.    It would be interesting to compare to Lees.

2 hours ago, Thukydides said:

mostly made of a wood that looks very dark (can't remember the name).

 Lignum vitae?

9 hours ago, NoelSmith said:

half the size of the huge Revell kit. Big enough to super detail it,

Super detail at 1:192 ?   That would be interesting to see on any model ...

Has anyone ever used this Mantua 'lathe' ?

It has the pass through feature.  Looks simple and cheap..

4 hours ago, Srenner said:

..centre to centre distance since there is no pass through is around 200mm.

Your concerns are well founded, but at the price point, it is pretty easy to extend the table on those lathes.

When all is said and done, while I was just throwing out some alternatives to the Proxxon machine,  I am personally not concerned with the length limitations.  

I find it's better ( for me ) to break up long spars and masts into shorter pieces, then put them back together.

An example from my Resolution.  I use a laser for the rough shape, which I turn with the drill and sand paper method.

FWIW

I don't know what your buying options are in NZ, but you might do as well with something like this:

Mini Wood Lathe  $36.99 US

At little higher cost, but still about half the Proxxon, here is another option.

Mini Wood Lathe $129.99

These machines will have their detractors, and rightly so, but you will have to go past the $500 price point to move into a category  that might get the approval of our tool aficionados.

I think machines like these will perform as well if not better than the Proxxon.

What Mamoli is looking for you to do is trace out a pattern like I have made in red, then use strip wood pieced together like I have indicated in blue, where you would then trace the pattern to give you a shape to fit over the bow and stern without any gaps.

You may want to use  more pieces than they have shown in the instructions in order to easier make a curve.

If this is still a problem for you and I may be able to put together a little demo with some wood.

Here are the drawings at WIKI Commons

Centurion 1732

There are 2, so click through to see the next one.

I need to get to my drawing tools later, and I can show you what I think you need to do..

I’m guessing Mamoli is showing a simplified way to put strip wood together, expecting you to match the curved shape of the stern?   
 

Do you have a picture of the profile of the boat?

There are a couple of drawings in the WIKI Commons..   I can get you a link later.

Bass is really a pretty good choice if you are painting..

You should put together a book with your rigging technique.  I would buy it in a heartbeat.  Meanwhile, your log is a frequent visit for me.

While I would be hard pressed to duplicate your work, a goal would be to get a similar look..

Check out HisModel and Amazon.  I see they have wooden decks for Cutty Sark.

I have bought their cherry and walnut sheets, which were of reasonable quality.

I think you are better off going with Modelers Sawmill or Ocooch Hardwoods.

If the 2D drawings do not render well, then they are not accurate. 
 

CAD can certainly help to resolve these inaccuracies, but not having the skills to use CAD,  should not keep you from producing accurate drawings for use with a laser.

While I agree CAD is great for visualizing the entire ship, in the end, the laser is a 2D tool.   Accurately produced 2D drawings are ultimately what you need to drive a laser, and they can be produced as accurately in a  2D environment as in a 3D one.

4 hours ago, chris watton said:

If only we knew then what we know now....

I like the version from a Bob Seeger song:  "  I wish I didn't know now, what I didn't know then. " 😁

Another consideration will be the software driving the laser.   If the laser controller will support it, see if you can get the community to use LightBurn.  It is relatively inexpensive and is very powerful.   It supports 2D images that it will trace for cutting, giving you the option of skipping the CAD work if you have a good 2D drawing of your frames or other parts.