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Peter, This may not apply to a collier like the Earl of Pembroke, but according to The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War by Lees, page 66, parrel rigging on the lower yards was superseded by truss pendants by about 1760. As Earl of Pembroke was launched in 1764 and acquired and renamed Endeavour in 1768, if she followed the RN methods she would never have had parrels on the lower yards. Marquardt's expertise was used in the construction of the replica so it seems odd they did not use parrels but he shows them in his book. Obviously Marquardt and Lees did a LOT of research on rigging in general so choose your poison on this one. Allan

What GRSJAX says! Best series for beginners to come along in our lifetime designed by one the most accomplished model builders and authors on ship modeling who also happens to be an active member here. Allan

Congratulations on your first build!!!! You should be proud of your accomplishment. We ALL make mistakes in the beginning and most of us still make some (hopefully fewer) as we gain experience. Neither. You might benefit by looking at the kits from Vanguard, MS, and Syren via the build logs here at MSW before making a decision. Look at the quality of the little things like their blocks, gratings, sails and rope which are higher quality and more realistic in appearance. Allan

Welcome Daniel, I have had the very good fortune visit Grindelvald several times, including taking the tram to First. BEAUTIFUL BEAUTIFUL country, even for those of us who do not ski. I know freight is expensive these days, but the three model beginner series designed by David Antscherl and available through Model Shipways is possibly the best way to begin and learn good methods. Study the many build logs here at MSW and do some research on the actual vessels that you are considering so you can which best suit your desires. Not all kits are created equally when it comes to realism and quality. Allan

Nicely done Ted, Do you have a new project in the works? Allan

I am not sure about prices in the EU, but I paid less than US$10, including freight, for twenty 3D printed gun barrels which were based on very accurate drawings. One of the nice things is you can scale to whatever size you would like once you have the 3D drawing in a useable format such as STL. I have turned cannon on my lathe and have made molds and cast cannon, and have now found that the 3D printer is by far easier, less expensive and more accurate. I would love to see someone prepare a set of STL drawings of the various type of cannon from the 17th century to the early 19th century and have MSW make them accessible in the Articles data base as they have done with a myriad of projects from rigging to deck furniture. Allan

There is an excellent article on putting the names on the sterns of British ships covering a wide period of time by David Antscherl in the new Spring 2022 NRJ, pages 73-79. It points out dates and types of lettering, and common errors including several incorrect versions that had once been on modern day Victory and modern day models. It would be great to see this posted at MSW for folks that are not members of NRG. Allan.

Practically speaking, this is true, but as the keel tapers from midships both fore and aft, there is slight bending but not really enough to cause much aggravation. I may off base on this , but it seems most kits forgot to include the taper so it not a factor anyway. Just as an FYI, the taper varied slightly with time and maybe nationality. This example is from the 1719 RN Establishment - The width for a keel about 90 feet long would be 12" midships, 10.5" wide forward and 7.5" wide at the sternpost. For the Mayflower, if these were close dimensions of her keel, at a scale of 1:60 this would be about 0.2" (5mm) at midships, 0.125" (3.2mm) at the rabbet of the sternpost, and 0.18" (4.5mm) at the bow. Allan

What, no Amazon Prime next day free delivery in Trinidad & Tobago?😀 Congrats on your new treasure chest of goodies. Allan

This plank looks spot on! Drying in the sun or however will work, but an inexpensive hot air gun from your local hardware store is a great way to dry them. Allan

I totally agree with you Mike. If you look closely at the closeups of the model mentioned, you will see there is nothing that will further the abilities of the builder as there is virtually nothing right about the rigging. Better to start with good information to form good habits and not have to un-learn something. There are indeed a few good kit brands out there. If you look at the the most recent page of build logs for kits from 1751-1800 which covers the period for Bounty note the kit brand names and the number of each listed. Maybe there is a lesson there. Allan

Looking at the model in the kit you mention, I would not pay $1, let alone $100 if I wanted to learn about rigging. From their ad photo I could not find one block or dead eye on the entire model and the lines look to be thrown on with no rhyme or reason for where they are run. There appear to be 7 lines made fast on each foreyard yardarm!!! I think there are much better choices out there. I am anxious to see other opinions after zooming in on the photo here: https://modelexpo-online.com/Corel-SM104-HMS-Bounty--Solid-Carved-Wood-Hull-Kit--Scale-1130--Length-13-14_p_3125.html Allan

She is a beauty! Are there are areas where the deck is "rough" to provide non skid surface? Had this situation on an Islander 36 model many years ago and could not figure a way to do this to scale for a while. Finally came up with using powdered glass in the fiberglass molds where these areas were to be. The positives that came out of the mold were a perfect replication. I am sure a similar treatment could work on the positive versus the mold if you need to have such an area. Again, your workmanship is great! Allan

Welcome aboard Gizmo2K2, Do you prefer Gizmo, Gizmo2K2 or a regular name? Looking forward to pictures of your uncle's models. Not sure the new member forum is the right place to post them, but hopefully a moderator will direct you to the right forum here at MSW. Allan

I wish I could visit you to see the model in person and chat about ship modeling over some of the fantastic foods I remember having in Seoul and Pusan. I can never get 낙지볶음 (Nakji Bokkeum) here that is as good as we had in Korea although there are a few in Manhattan, including Miss Korea BBQ that do a great job. I look forward to your next posts. Allan

You have a LOT of company. Why bother posting dozens and dozens of "no image online" icons? If it is to let us know they have them in storage, will they send these if requested individually in low resolution so one can decide which to purchase in high resolution? I realize museums do not have deep pockets, and RMG is still an unbelievably great source for all of us, even with the changes. Worse than the changes in the Collections is the fact that what few models they had on display were put in storage. Maybe they put them back out, it has been a few years now, but if not I wonder what they put in their place. Allan

You are not alone Amalio! Allan

I have always been about wooden ships but I am excited to see more about this kit so will be checking in on your build log. Good luck!! Allan

Your comment got me curious so did a little digging. Sounds like you found the information in Lavery's Arming and Fitting book where he writes ......Large ships, of the Third Rate and above, usually carried three lanterns. In 1722 it was ordered that Fourth Rates should also have three lanterns, but in 1804 it was decided that ships below the First Rate needed only two, except when they were fitted as flagships. It is clear from this order that a private ship lit only the two outer lanterns, even before the middle one was abolished. There is a little side note on page 300 that some may find interesting as there are four lanterns mentioned. It is a letter currently in the Public Records Office from Officers of Woolwich dockyard to the Navy Board 25th June 1701 regarding the lanterns of the Royal Sovereign. Rt. Hons, As directed by your honour's orders of the 31st May last, we put a valuation (to the best of our judgements) on the Royal Sovereigns lanterns, the lights being of stone ground glass, for which a blank bill was made out to Mr. Nicholas Pickering, the 27th March 1701 as follows. viz- Lanterns of 9ft 6in high and 4ft 4in diameter, one - £37 Lanterns of 8ft 2in high and 3ft 9in diameter, two - £29 each Upright top lantern of 6ft 6in high and 2ft 10in diameter, one - £15' I am not sure what the last lantern is. Might it be a lantern in the main mast top? Regardless, RS carried some mighty large lanterns! Allan

Flyer, I agree that the Renaissance period was full of artistry in many ways, not just the works of Michelangelo and Da Vinci. It seemed to have carried over to vessels of most, if not all, seafaring nations including the two you mention. Whatever the reason, it is a wonder to see. Even the carvings on the contemporary models continue to amaze us. Allan

David, The deck planking looks great and at 1:72 it is sooo nice to NOT see oversized and obtrusive treenails. Very nice work! Probably the camera angle in the pic, but is there something amiss with the alignment of the openings in the deck? Allan

Great points across the board Roger. The only one that MAY be a problem is not taking the removable thwarts as then rowing at those stations would be problematic. I suppose the odd cask or other jury rig could be made, but an interesting point either way. Allan

I thought that might be the case. Nothing wrong with taking things into your own hands, so to speak. Your build log continues to be a joy to follow. Allan

No problem Glenn Probably easier just to go to https://seawatchbooks.com/products/hms-euryalus-36-1803-a-plank-on-frame-model-volume-i-by-allan-yedlinsky-and-wayne-kempson and https://seawatchbooks.com/products/hms-euryalus-36-1803-a-plank-on-frame-model-volume-ii-by-allan-yedlinsky-and-wayne-kempson Just submitted an initial draft on another project with SeaWatch so more is hopefully forthcoming. Cheers Allan

Hi Yves The drawing from AOTS that you posted shows the rudder taper which was pretty normal. Does the kit and/or the book show the taper of the knee of the head from the stem moving forward which reduced by about half? Thanks Allan