Javelin

Thanks guys. So on to the pour. No use in leaving it hanging for a long time since I guess the ropes might slip. This has been one of my main concerns for this one. During the pour for the Spartacus build, I added the multicat Auxilia late in the process. When the resin was quite gelly. However the first thing I noticed was that it was sinking, even when the epoxy was already gel. When I pulled it back to the surface (it didn't go too deep), I noticed I really had to pull quite hard to get it out. So I believe it's the "creeping" effect of the gel actually pulling it down rather than simply the difference in densities. That's also the reason I took some strong ropes to hang Scheldt River up in this case. I really didn't want her to be partially sunk. Additionally when I was mixing, I noticed the density of Epoxy is way below that of water. Plastic floats on water, but the epoxy density really is about half that of water, so plastic does sink in epoxy, even without the creep effect sucking it down. For pouring I didn't want to use a hose, since it would be hitting the tool all the time with my clumsiness it would definitely result in the tool rotating and the ship dropping down.... Instead I thought of a slide, which also allowed me to control the outgoing flow better (to avoid the initial splash to end up on deck of the vessel). I used a cut-up cup to insert in the neck. I thought the regular down slide of the neck would be enough to avoid overflow, but it didn't. It was also a bit short, resulting in my pouring some resin on the tool (without consequences). Of course the last bits were tricky, since I really didn't have much allowance between too little or too much. The reflection/light bending gave some difficulty in correctly estimating it too. Looking from the neck would have been easier, but the slide was there of course. I was however well prepared with a big plastic covering the table and some rags stand-by to contain any spillage. In the end, what I learned is to use a longer slide and to give it more down slide and at least close the outside end to have less spill. I only removed the tool when the epoxy was fully cured for fear of seeing the ship being sucked down if it was still somewhat liquid (something I saw on that multicat as well, very late in the curing process). I use the leftovers of the resin to test if it is hardened and only then I try the epoxy in the bottle near the neck. This is to avoid having uncured epoxy on my testing tool, leaving a mark in the end product. What is quite obvious on the above picture is that the bottom disappeared... Somehow the light breaking on the bottle glass and resin, gives a certain light bending effect. Nothing of the sand-mixture bottom is visible unless you look from the top. Additionally when you look from slightly below the epoxy level you don't see the side of the underwater ship, but instead you start seeing the bottom of the vessel. I'll take pictures of that later on. The one remaining piece of masking tape is still holding the UniCaenis rope. The bottle is quite dirty from handling it, so it still needs some cleaning. One additional conclusion is that I didn't get bubbles during the curing process, so it indeed was that acrylic gel-sand mixture that created those.

Thanks for the comments and likes. No time to lose, so here is the repair on the aft. Once all parts were repaired and repainted it was time for insertion into the bottle. I decided to deploy/rotate the gantries when the PS half was still in the neck, but the gantries inside the bottle. This way I could hold the hull and still rotate the gantries. I used some slow CA to glue them. Now, of course that malicious Uni Caenis was still there and it's been trying to sabotage me all the way. Here is a picture that shows how thin it really is. The problem was also that the winch is mounted on the vessel, somewhere close to the neck, so even pulling that rope tight isn't an option to really get it out of the way. (it's the black line near the tip of the red arrow). I kept it stuck with some masking tape to the outside of the bottle. Both halves mated inside the bottle and hung up on the tool. Here you can see I started working on a big white sheet of paper to keep better track of the pesky Uni Caenis. And a front view to check the list of the vessel. All in all I spent about 1 hour adjusting the position of the vessel. I wanted to maximize height above the bottom, but also needed to adjust the list and trim each time. The anti-fouling painted under an angle, the way it is, makes it quite difficult to see whether the vessel is evenkeel or how it's trimmed. Eventually I used a 0.5mm brass rod attached to a small water level to have an idea where the hull was sitting compared to the neck and how it was trimmed. Once happy with the position, I stuck each rope to the outside of the bottle with masking tape and made small markings on each rope near the neck to mark its position, just in case the tape would slip. Making knots on the tool and having only 1 line running outside instead of both ends of each rope really was a blessing.

Well, so what happened? In the end there was a tiny issue remaining. There is a winch on PS with a wire that leads up on the bow connection to lift the floating line into the coupling. I wanted that wire to be depicted, but never had a really good idea how to do that, since the bow piece was on a different part of the model. Eventually I figured out a way to do it, but I had to use the hair-thin Uni Caenis thread. So I glued a long piece of uniCaenis to my winch and glued the winch to the model. All said and done the model was resting, with only the two hull parts on top of the eraser with the winch attached. That Uni Caenis is a rather curly kind of thread and (definitely with the dark green back-ground of my cutting board) nearly invisible. I wanted to grab the thread with my tweezer tip, but failed since my tweezer tips don't close properly anymore. However, during that manipulation a curled part of the rope got between the back of my tweezers without me seeing it. I moved back with my arm since I had the idea I didn't grab it and the whole ship came with it. During my surprise jank, the PS part remained attached and dangling on that rope and winch, but the SB released and crashed to the floor. After my initial shock, I saw it laying on its side and thought it was ok, but upon closer inspection it really wasn't ok. Don't know how (or how many times) it hit the floor, but somehow a mooring winch on the aft along with the aft anchor were gone (anchor support still there but thrashed), but worse, the bow section broke off. The bulwark broke where I drilled the 0.5mm fairlead hole, but took some of the filler with it. Also the "cloud" broke off the dredge pipe, but that was really no concern. The dredge pipe gantries also came off, dangling to the ropes on the dredge pipe, but since they were just dry fitted over pins, they released cleanly. On the first search I found the winch back. The anchor was of course nowhere to be found. But both of them were not my concern. That would could not be fixed in any proper way given the size and bulwark breaking. Filing/sanding after applying any filler would definitely ruin that bow and I'm kind of eager to finish this project as it has stalled the Chaconia build for long enough. But here comes some good news. I was kind of "lucky", because I found the broken part back. Tiny as it is, it does seem to have broken in a clean way, so I managed to glue it back on. It only needed some paint. The clean cut on the fairlead was a good match, so it's hardly visible. There is only a tiny corner missing, but that corner is hidden below the bow connection platform, so I can live with that. At first I feared for a total loss as I wouldn't be able to fix that bow in probably a week's time, but now we're back on track.

yeah, so I dropped it... On the floor that is. An update after battle damage assessment will follow soon.

beautiful work on that lantern Olli. Great work on the kit itself, a very handsome hull shape. You've captured it well!

Thanks a lot Gary and Keith. So big update this time. I came to the point where I had to make a test to see for the height/depth of that dredge pipe and position of the ship. First the ship, she wasn't finished yet, but far enough to go for that test: Then the test. SB part went in quite well. The stones I put on some positions on the bottom are a bit annoying and risky for paint damage, but I can live with it. I rotated the bottle so the piece would be on the edge between glass and sand layer. Then PS piece was a bit of a surprise. The aft gantry was rotated and passed well, the forward one, which I didn't deem a problem, appeared to be very much of a problem. In fact as bad as the aft one when I did a dry fit. Filing it off wasn't an option, it would be too much filing, down to the hole where the cable should pass. As you can see, the ropes are attached through the lifting eyes. So I cut off the gantry, quite a risky cut, but it succeeded. I continued my test without the gantries. Once in, I dry fitted both pieces together and passed the ropes through the holes in the tool. I then hoisted the ship up to see where the dredge pipe and the hull were. It seems my measurements and assumed position were quite good, the pipe can be used more or less in its end position down. So I'll slightly lift it with the wires to the gantries to keep some tension on those during the resin pour. I learned a few lessons from this test as well, one was that I had the ropes on the aft crossed. That means that when I tried to slack the aft rope, it was stuck under the other rope and didn't want to slack unless I slacked the other one first. I'll need to cross them differently I guess. You can also see two pieces of brass wire on the tool outside of the bottle. I installed those hoping to use them as bollards to hold the ropes. This was not a good idea, in the end I settled on masking tape to hold the rope ends on the bottle. Since the tool wasn't fixed in position yet, it first tried to rotate upside down. I used some tape to hold it in place. It did "twist" a bit in the bottle, but I decided I kind of like the ship to be slightly angled compared to the centerline of the bottle. After learning those lessons I separated the halves again and used the ropes to retrieve the pieces from the bottle. I then finished the ship, only things remaining are some "wires" between the bow connection and a winch on PS and between the gantries and the dredge pipe. Once those are done, I will insert both halves inside the bottle and connect them. The epoxy hasn't arrived yet, so it might be a while before I can continue. The bottom is rather dark, so I'll be using a light blue color for the epoxy.

Made some serious progress, eventhough I wasn't expecting to finish it by my next departure. Somewhere I do see a light at the end of the tunnel. So now it's time to detail and to start test fitting to see if all that detailing will even fit through the neck. On the top left of this picture you see a small "measuring stick" on the hull. This one has the height of the rescue boat davit. Luckily it fits, so I can build and attach that davit on the hull. Then it was time for the "tool" and suspension test. It only existed in my imagination and I've thought of several iterations to improve it, but so far it seems ok the way it is. I thought I wouldn't have enough moment to actually tilt it to an upright position, but it works quite fine to adapt the trim and list of the vessel. In the bottle it will be hanging a lot closer to the tool, so I'll do that as well to avoid any surprises. It's quite a tight squeeze in the bottle. The idea is to insert both halves with the ropes through the eyes, but ropes fixed outside of the bottle. Then connect the hull halves together. Then attach one end of each rope to the tool by a knot and get the other end through the hole in the tool and going out the bottle. This gives me 3 ropes out of the bottle to work with. I tried with both ends loose, but that makes 6 ropes and it makes a mess. Further tests will follow during the detailing process. As there really is no room for error once it's in the bottle.

Hi Glen, thanks, but nothing of those steps will remain in the end... The sand will cover all. I have now glued the bottle to the base and applied the first coat of acrylic-sand mixture. The advantage of this mixture is that it sticks well and can be shaped. When mixed with epoxy, the sand flows much more and can't be shaped into hills etc. This was a couple of days ago, now it has dried and the sand has darkened a lot. I'll be adding another layer of this mixture to blend things in a bit more. It's now a very stable set-up. I've "glued" the bottle itself to the wooden stands using pure acrylic gel as well. It won't be rotating on the stand. I've made some serious advances on the ship as well. The discharge line on deck has now been finished. Not sure if I'll put the dredge valves on it. I do have a prototype, so I'll see. I've also mounted the hydraulic cylinders that open and close the bottom doors and the small wooden decks are also painted brown now. That gantry on PS, yellow-green thing, is way too angled, so I'll tear it off and try to get it straightened. Biggest items remaining now are the lifeboat and rescue boat and the catwalk over the hopper (including 2 yellow-green containers. It also needs life rafts The second crane is ready, but can't be easily dry fitted, so it's not visible in the above pics. It needs a support near the bridge, but I still need to see if I mount it on the crane jib (not preferred, will be more difficult to mount the crane inside the bottle that way) or on the accommodation block, depends on whether it will pass the bottle neck when mounted on the accommodation block.

Yes, the reason is simply power. Capstans have more space to allow more people to push, certainly a double capstan. A windlass is restricted by its horizontal positioning. So if you need to pull more weight and have more space, a capstan is your choice. Smaller vessels have lighter weights to lift and are often limited in deck space, so windlasses come in handy. As Phil mentioned, for even smaller vessels it could be done by tackles. I suppose some of it is simply related to time frame, some of it by the accepted limits of human power.

I eventually opted to lower the base and mount the brackets on a base plate with a random rounded shape. I then built up several layers of 3mm ply to cover most of the gap between the base plate and bottle in a stepped fashion. After mounting the base plate, I made a paper template, outlined the bottom layer by striking a pencil point around the contour. I then drew in the next layer, cut and transferred the outline to wood. The next layer I did in the same way. All is glued with PVA now, so I can start applying sand to the bottle. With @Glen McGuire doing his nameplate, I figured out I completely forgot about that with this low set-up. I'll need to fix that somehow. First thought is to make some kind of debris sticking out of the sandy base with the details on them, slightly to the right of the whole thing in order not to disturb the view on the dredger. In the meanwhile I also mixed new yellow-green and painted all ready parts in that color. She's starts to look like a DEME dredger now. The discharge pipe on deck is also in progress and caused some headache (of course!) Bending the pipe itself wasn't such an issue, it was mostly that styrene piece at the bow that was the issue. The one I built when I was onboard was too short and the angle of the drilled hole for the pipe was not good. In the end I rebuilt that piece 4 times before I was happy with it. More parts are ready, but this is more or less where I ended up this morning. Most of it is still dry fitted of course. Finishing the bridge windows now so I can glue those parts together as well. I will still add some detail to the masts later on.

Apart from the excellent build itself, the display is very nicely balanced and puts the ships nicely on center stage. Congratulations on a perfect build. I vote for a complete battle of Trafalgar in a bottle for the next build. Admit it, the only way you're going to top this is by having at least 4 ships fighting in a bottle!

I'm following for a while and marvel at your tiny detail work, yet in all my excitement I forget to react!! Great job Keith, certainly at that scale it's not easy to achieve what you intend to! Love that tiny boiler and the overall crisp finish of your model.

Thanks Keith, All in all I didn't have to invent too many ways to handle or assemble things up till now. I'm now completing all items that need to be painted yellow-green. The other parts are all nearly finished in paint. I will still try to add some red touches to add some color (and because they are truly there on the real ship). After measuring and building of those last details, I decided it was time to connect the dredge pipe to the PS hull part. Still need to adjust the height of that piece, but it's the original piece that was removed in the first place. This means the sides of the hole where the dredge pipe protrudes are matching for a good closing of that hull. You can also see the bulwark is already painted white and you can also see the rudder and anchor supporting structure. The pipe will be in the way for painting that hull, but it had to be mounted to paint that hull properly. In the meanwhile I'm also busy with the supporting of the bottle itself. I'm not planning on turning that bottle around too much when the vessel is inside, so I better fix that sand on the outside of the bottle first. I don't want to rely solely on that acrylic gel-sand mixture to hold the bottle, so I decided to make some wooden supports first. I'll add a longitudinal beam between the two as well. I'll glue them to the bottle with acrylic gel and cover them in sand later on. Not sure if I'll go for a central support only, or if I make those supports lower and then spread the sand in a wider base... And here you can see the bottle neck and tilted sand bed.

I think it was a good call to change the base. The big piece of wood probably would have taken too much attention and make the bottle disappear. The new base looks awesome and will make people focus on the ships (and whirlpool!)

Great build so far. However I was wondering about the aft part/stern. The balsa? fillers make sense, but how is this faired with the hull planking? Love that wood tone on the outer layer. A pitty to paint it.

Thanks Keith, The question is not whether I can put those details on, but rather if I want to spend the time on it and whether it's worth the effort, considering the bottle distortion she'll face afterwards. I also used to mix the glossy moss green paint with colourles matt paint to get rid of the gloss, but since she'll be going in a nice glossy bottle, I guess this isn't necessary in this case. Kids back to school from today, so more time to continue. Yesterday I added the steel bar guides for the anchors. Due to her odd bow shape, she needs extensions on the hull to keep the anchors clear of that huge bulb. I build those from copper wire. She also has a riverine/streamer anchor, which they occasionally use in bad weather when picking up the floating line to stay in place. Depends on the dredge operator if he wants to use that one or not. This anchor also has those spacers to keep the anchor from getting stuck underneath the hull. The aft anchor does have a steel wire rope instead of chain (not that it matters that much on my model). The hull is now technically ready for paint. I've also primed the superstructures in order to paint them white after. White doesn't cover well and contrasts from pencil/marker lines are very difficult to hide. The primer takes care of that. And I finally tackled the other thing that I was ignoring, the platform on the PS. I finally cut it off and tested if the deck would fit. It makes a pretty big difference and leave some room to add more detail. Of course I still need that platform, so I fixed that platform to the hull piece. I first glued a smaller plate to have some contact surface to the sloped wall as essentially the platform needs to be at the same level as the deck piece (brown primer in below picture). I also added tiny stiffeners (0.2mm copper wire) to keep that platform level. I also added the two spreader pipes that diffuse the dredged material in the hopper from the top. These pipes I cut at the exact width of the hopper opening, so that they help to position the (brown) deck when I put it in place in the bottle. The seam is unfortunate, but necessary. The platform also has a different colour (gratings) on the real vessel, so in the end there really is a separation. And the overview to make things clear. Numbers 1 are the extensions for the anchors. Number 2 is the platform I'm talking about. Here is is standing free without the brown deck attached. You can also see the painted suction pipe and an effort to match the hull yellow-green. It looked ok during mixing, but I think I'll add more yellow to make it slightly lighter. After finishing the lower accommodation block and painting part of the "brown" deck in moss green, I'll attach the lower accommodation block to that deck. Then I can finally add the dredge line and perhaps valves. At the same time, when I finish the bridge level, I'll be able to glue it to the lower bridge level and that part will be ready.

Yes they did, it's called a Cutter Suction Dredger: it walks on the spuds, at the same time it eats by cutting and dredging and it poops by discharging the dredge waste through the floating line at the stern! So we'll call them "dredging cows" now. @Keith Black, Haven't tried the varnish trick yet, but that might help. Time fore another experiment I guess. I did however prime the surfaces before with spray primer, also that didn't work... As for the cloud, I made a set-up today to see where we are and I'm not that unhappy with that cloud. Mind you I remeasured the bottle with the sand bottom in today. It gave me much less space than anticipated, but this set-up with the eraser below the hull is pretty accurate in dimensions. Still a lot of work to do though. I've been aching to start painting it, but since there is still a lot of detailing to do, I decided to continue building first. It's also freezing outside, so spray primer isn't a good plan for the time being. As you can see, she has also received the propulsion tunnels, I think I'll leave them empty. A propeller is possible, but nobody will ever notice, certainly not when I mount the rudders behind it. First I'll paint the dredge pipe, then mount it, close the hull and paint the hull. Once that's done I'll continue on the deck. I believe turning the gantry is possible, but to keep it in place is still a question mark. And for size

Well basically what Glen was saying, it should represent a cloud of sediment being stirred up behind the draghead. Good you think it's fluffy, cause it's not... By immersing it in epoxy it collapses like a wet rag, but by stretching and shaping it during curing, it gets hard in that shape. That means it won't collapse when I pour the resin later on. I plan to glue it to the draghead before insertion. I'll make a test to see if I like it. The lighter shade might make it more visible I guess. Unfortunately that can't be done. In reality it's either dredging or discharging. The rainbowing is done stationary and dredging can't be done stationary... You did make me think about a rainbow from the bottle cap though 🤪 As for the gantry thing, I might try to rotate it 90° backwards together with its base and rotate it back sideways when the hull is inside. Will need to check if this is physically possible though, it's kind of tiny and I don't want it to fall off inside that bottle.

Thanks Glen, but then you do build 3 or 4 ships by the time I start 1... Not a great amount of work done. Mostly detailing and preparing for paint now. First half will fit, not too much space for anything extra though. Although it exactly matches the drawings in size, it does appear larger than I expected by looking at that paper template... On the brighter side, that does mean more color in that bottle and she will catch more attention that way. But then it's also time to get an idea of the size of the elephant in the room... Taking off a bit of length of that gantry isn't going to solve it... Moving it lower or higher doesn't solve it either. Only when lowered to extreme and unusable height, it will fit through. Guess that planning wasn't too good after all. The point is of course that the drawings I have are not with the deployed dredge pipe, so they don't show the gantries when extended. The forward, shorter one, does fit without a problem. So I'd only need to solve the aft one. As you can also see, I've been putting some moss green paint on it. Still a crappy paint. I hate to use it, but it'll have to do. Another 10 layers to go before it finally covers I guess. Tried about everything with that paint to make it cover, nothing works. Diluted with water, airbrushed, brushed by hand, always the same result. The pigment clogs together and the paint doesn't cover. Even the parts without pigment have a tendency to leave a surface uncovered. In the lower left corner you see that brownish fluffy thing. That's the epoxied cotton wool. Not very sharp, but do you think I should add it behind that draghead on the bottom or better to leave it out (or make something new)? In the meanwhile I'm also completing that dredge pipe. I'll need to install it in the hull in order to finally close that hull and paint it. There's going to be some extra detailing on that head as well.

It's not the radioactive resin from AK, but the dark earth... That's the reason I was asking about that before. I've been mixing acrylic with sand to create bottoms in the past and then poured epoxy over it. On 2 occasions it started making bubbles very late in the curing process, which then got those bubbles stuck inside the epoxy due to the low viscosity of the curing resin. I believe acrylic gel reacts with epoxy. In my latest attempt I'm mixing sand with epoxy to pour the bottom, this also would get any air bubbles between the sand grains stuck inside that epoxy layer when hardened. High temperature/sun affects epoxy curing, but it's not something that starts it. Too hot and the thing will start to go really bad, too cold and the chain reaction of the two components will slow down and stop. It cures by a chemical reaction, that reaction creates heat, which then creates a good temperature for the surrounding molecules to react. When that heat is taken away by the surrounding environment which is too cold, it stops that reaction. If it's too hot around it, the reaction will go really fast, so the heat created by the reaction itself can not get away and builds up till very hot temperatures, creating a boiling effect. To get a proper curing you need the good quantities of the components (weight wise), properly mixed and be in the good temperature range. Another thing you need to check is whether the epoxy is suitable for the thickness you're trying to pour, again related to getting rid of the exothermic heat by having enough contact with the environment. However, considering it didn't harden only on that contact surface, I guess it did react to the acrylic. On the other side, the heat you encountered might be caused by overheating in the sun and perhaps melting something on that contact surface with the bottom? It's also an area far away from any contact with the environment in all directions, so perhaps it couldn't release the heat? Not sure how to solve that though... Is the upper part contact surface still really liquid? Or is there some kind of reaction going on? Opening it up might have helped to get rid of the heat and let the curing proceed. Fingers crossed!

That black is indeed very unforgiving, but your result looks very professional. I love the contrast between those wood fenders and black hull. Great choice of colours!

It looks Brilliant Keith, a work of tremendous patience!

Hi @Glen McGuire, The pictures are a bit misleading as part of the bottle is inside its stand and the ship is not pictured at the height that it will sit at. She has a rather shallow draft, even when fully loaded. This was of course intentional to allow her to dredge in shallow areas. I've taken your concern in account a long while back. I made a drawing to be able to calculate how much clearance there would be. I started by drawing part of a circle (lower left part of the drawing) with the radius of the bottle (unfortunately I did this onboard, using the inside of the previous bottle as I didn't know the real bottle radius). Then I drew the width of the sand bed that I required. From this I could measure the height of the sand bed. Then I want to the top part of the drawing, where I have a frontal view of the bottle, with the bottle neck pictured. I then inserted the measurements, including the "ship" next to it with its perceived draft. This way I could calculate the "Under Keel Clearance" (an actual and important maritime term). I ended with 2.4cm UKC (nearly 1"), which isn't much, but one can not get much more out of this I'm afraid. The only other way would be to have a "Amaretto" or similar rectangular bottle, but those are difficult to find in clear glass. Now I did measure the real bottle inside, it's slightly over 7cm, which means only a couple of millimeters from my drawing. The picture above with her "dredging along the edge of the laptop" is more or less what it should be. Due to you bringing up this topic, I pulled myself together and in a short period of free time I actually made the sand bed in the bottle. Last time I had a lot of issues getting that sand through a piece of pipe, so I needed to improve on that. I used a plastic lid. Cut it to size and inserted it in the neck, this way I could avoid dirtying the neck too much and due to the transparent plastic I could actually see what I was doing with the sand. Now I didn't like the end of the guide inside the bottle as this would make a mess when retracting it afterwards. I then taped that end together with some cellophane tape. I then put some sand inside the guided and pushed it inside the bottle. Later on the in process I drew the guide back in order to spread the sand more forward until I reached the end. This time I used an epoxy with sand mixture instead of acrylic gel with sand. This is to try to avoid that bubble issue I had with Spartacus and Sea Installer. I then curled the guide together so the dirty edge wouldn't touch the neck. I then flattened the sand a bit with some of my previously self-made tools. I also added some stones and when it was gelling, I tried to make a trench where the draghead will pass along the bottom. There is also something that represents ribs from a shipwreck near the neck. Tiny of course, I'll try to picture it better later on. Now since you brought up the level issue, I actually thought the sea bottom isn't always level, so part of the solution to the height and visibility issue is rotating the bottle slightly. (in the top drawing you see a dashed on the lower left drawing), this brought the sand bed more to the side of draghead while reducing the width of the sand bed (and height below the hull). However, when making calculations I had to take some extra to account for losses and I couldn't believe the small amount needed... In the end I put way too much sand inside the bottle. I'll remeasure the clearance once it's hardened. Here you can see, I used the seam of the bottle as a top mark, it's slightly rotated in its stand while I made the sand, so once hardened, I'll rotate the seam upwards. Even with too much sand, it should increase visibility slightly. I also tried to make an epoxy cloud to drag behind the drag head with cotton wool, but it doesn't look very promising.

Thanks Keith, And a (belated) Merry Christmass and (future) Happy New Year to you all. May you all celebrate these days with friends and/or family and enjoy the moment! As for the model... Well, I did succeed in doing something on it since arriving home, but not much. With Christmas etc. it's entirely stopped, we'll see for how long. In any case, at home I did have the full array of tweezers etc. available, so I did some further detailing on the superstructures. At the same time, I applied Milliput epoxy filler to the bow and stern areas to make the transition between several pieces of styrene a bit more smooth and to get a better seam between the two halves. I'm not entirely happy with the seam, but I've done to attempts now and I guess it'll have to stay like it is. For future builds (if any) I'll definitely make a flat plate on both ends of the joint and build the hull around that. In this case, by cutting that hopper in 2, this method was not practical. Being home also gave me access to the real bottle in order to test fit a few things. One of the unknown items was the support of the aft crane. It's located near the outside and sticks out quite a bit, which meant it could have caused an issue in the bottleneck. I'm now happy to have it fit, making it easier to mount the crane afterwards. I also discovered that the aft, longest gantry for the dredge pipe is sticking out a bit too much and won't fit in the bottleneck, I still need to think of a solution for that. And here is the hull next to the bottle. She will nicely fill the bottle, perhaps a bit too much. This is after application of spray putty, I will sand it smooth before putting any paint on. Before I do that, I'll first need to install more details on the aft, including prop tunnels and rudders. The anti-fouling line is drawn, it's not parallel to the keel, since these ships are very heavily trimmed on the stern when empty and apparently they decided to apply this trim to the anti-fouling as well. I've also tested the top deck over the hopper and my earlier idea was correct. The platform on the port sticks out too much and it won't fit in the bottle this way. The idea is now to clip that part off and fix it to the hull half. It'll then also act as a good guide to get that deck properly aligned. That's it for the time being, not sure when the next update will come, nor what it will show...

Merry Christmas to you and your family Keith!