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Richard Griffith

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Everything posted by Richard Griffith

  1. Boudriot shows a similar line page 79, vol 3 The 74 Gun Ship. (Marquart mirrors Boudriot, pg 210 18th Century Rigging.) The 2 Images do not attach to the corner. He calls it the leech line. I did not find anything like this in Anderson. Boudriot's image seems to show a loop through which travels the leech line, then is attached to the cringle next lower. Since it is part of the leech line, it would have assisted in furling the sail. Duff
  2. Welcome aboard, Jonathan11~!!! This site is one of the best in the world and the participants are very helpful. Duff
  3. Wow, I toon have a grand daughter named Isabella~! She also likes to work with me in my shop. Keep building, and above all, have fun. Duff
  4. Griphos' method also works for me. I do NOT put CA on fingers because I have glued them together several times which required me to use my scalpel. I guess it works for you, Jim, but it's too dangerous for me...Duff
  5. Yaymay, it depends on how much detail you want to include. Suggest you skip the sails as those will double your work effort but not the amount of line. I don't think 120' will be enough, though. If I recall correctly, the Connie had 10 to 12 different sizes of line, and lots of it. You could rig her with the 3 sizes. As a general rule, use lighter line as you go higher up the masts. The darker lines would be for the standing rigging, lighter for the running lines.
  6. Dave, and Mike, I prefer the torch. It looks like you already have a ceramic block and T pins. Anchor your ring to the block, add solder paste to it, then put tiny pieces of solder in the paste, then put your brass pipe on top. Brace the pipe so it won't move. Be sure the parts are clean, and you may have to hammer the solder into tiny flat pieces. As soon as the solder melts, remove the heat. Duff
  7. Azzoun, I am very interested. We have to watch our finances because our house burned down last May plus I am working on a couple of repair commissions that will give me 'book' money. I expect to finish them early March. What price would you consider? thx. Duff
  8. very nice work! I may have missed it-what specie of wood are the wales and how did you make that tight turn under the counter?
  9. I agree with Bob. Never mind that the air brush will be ruined, but your lungs and nervous system will be too. Controlling the humidity is the best strategy, then replacing the cracked planks should 'solve' the problem. BTW, Longridge's HMS Victory develop cracks in its hull planking…….. Duff
  10. Hi Toni and everyone, I have used the diluted artist acrylic paint and got the color I wanted, but the rope became too stiff. It became difficult to hang realistically and to get tight knots. Perhaps I used too much paint,,,,,, duff
  11. Hey Pieter, brass, bronze and mixed metal were in use at that time, mostly for bolts, bottom protection ('coppering' which was mixed metal), cannon, binnacles and the like. Iron was cheaper and although it would rust, got painted. Unless you have documentation, paint them dull black. Duff
  12. Chris is 'on the money' with his comments. Potential buyers don't give a hoot about great grandad but you do, and that cannot be priced. The model is nicely made and shows well. If you MUST sell her, I suggest you seek a professional such as Fiddlers Green in NJ (I have no connection). As for a box, furniture and appliance stores have large boxes for the asking, Best regards, Duff
  13. Yikes~! I am looking closely at the pictures but can not believe my eyes...….The master artist makes magic. Thank you Doris.
  14. welcome aboard, Iliya~! Good advice above. Yes buy tools only as you REALLY need them. Of course all of my wants are all of my needs............Duff
  15. I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy''''''''One hour on the ratlines, one hour on the bottle''''''just keep those lines straight and yop're good to go. Duff
  16. love the pun Zack.... Your question covers the waterfront, but here's my 2 centazos. Start small and cheap. If you were to get everything listed in your post, you would need a second mortgage. Carbide burrs are adequate for our work, even used ones from your dentist. Dentists must always use new in order have adequate defenses in law suits. So he/she may donate a few to you if you ask. If you have Harbor Freight or similar in your area, get their $10 packages of diamond and carbide burrs, which have various shapes and start making some dust. You will start to get a feel. Don't rush, you are in learning mode. Buy your next set or type of burrs based on your feel=your new found knowledge. Comments on the types: When you need to remove A LOT wood, use a round head tungsten carbide, they have real teeth but will set you back $20 each. Buy only when in need. Diamond burrs are good for smoothing as they remove only small amounts of wood. Your new feel will tell you which shapes you like the best. Same for the carbide burrs. Your homework is to search this forum for other comments, especially Chuck's intro on relief carving. Best wishes on you quest and please keep us postsed
  17. BTW. planking doers take lots of time, but when done correctly, the results are ooh so sweat...Duff
  18. F if you have a plane, then just rough out your diagonal, then plane it straight. piece of cake........Duff
  19. very nice photos  of a very nice model! 

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