Richard Griffith
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Hi Greg, try (I think Amazon does their shipping): Small Parts and Bearings 3239 Old Cleveland Road Capalaba West, QLD, 4157 Australia Ph: 07 3245 7977 Fax: 07 3245 1017 e-mail: sales@smallparts.com.au web: http://www.smallparts.com.au
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Also, try Vincenzo Lusci's book "Luscis's Ship Model Builder's Handbook" 1970. Another is Gene Johnson's "Ship Model Building" Softcover, ISBN 0870333690. Both can be purchased for a few dollars in the used book markets. Duff
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Fastening Blocks to Eyebolts
Richard Griffith replied to mikiek's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Good advice above. Since we are creating illusions, we decide what looks best and what suits our abilities. In full size practice, a block would not be stropped to an eye bolt but would have an eye spliced in (with a thimble) or a hook. It would then be lashed to the eye bolt or the hook would be moused so as not to fall out of the eye bolt (refer to page 161 of Lees book). Broudriot has excellent graphics; for example between pages 172 and 173 of his 74 Gun Gun Ship, V2 is an illustration of a gun tackle. The training tackles have a hook and the breechings have a iron ring which engages the eye bolt. However, there are always exceptions, n'est-ce pas. Some stays in Broudriot's book The 74 Gun Ship are shown spliced to the eye bolt-see pages 127 V3 and page 181. Keep building and above all, have fun. Duff -
Les, that's where the 1200 grit sandpaper comes in. You might want to build a test piece. Duff
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The custom was (is) to be able to shift the lateen yard to either side of the mast so the sail would be to leeward of the mast. In your case, Keith, the lateen yard could be shifted by unhooking the bowlines (the lines at the nock - the low end of the yard), loosening the parrels and shifting the yard. As long as the yard can be shifted, then the position of the shrouds is not critical. I suspect that in some cases, the yard could not be shifted; in which case the sail would draw better on one tack and not so well on the other. Most of the models shown by Franklin and Lees show the lateen inside the shrouds. Duff
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Hi Les, this repair will be difficult because of the Varathane. Clean out the crack with a dental pic Make some saw dust from left over mahogany Mix in some glue with the saw dust so it is like the viscosity of cream Work it into the crack and let it set for 2 days Carefully sand the area and protect the the finish outside of the area with painters tape or similar Spray Varathane to the repair, a couple of light coats, per instructions on the can (mask off the rest of the boat) remove the tape, and let dry for a couple of days, then examine the repair. You may have to wet dry sand the area with 1200 sand paper to blend it. Good luck. Duff
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Dan, you are not alone in your fight, many people are pulling with you. Never give up. Duff
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Hej Backer, good start~! You might to also check out the excellent work by the late Raymond Aker (d. 2008). His research and plans were published in "Ships in Scale" March 2008 V. XIX #2 and May 2008 V. XIX #3. Duff
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Explanation of Dockyard Terms circa 1691
Richard Griffith replied to trippwj's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Phew, that war much typing. Thanks me hearty for posting this~! Duff -
Beautiful work Mark~! Thanks for posting. BTW, I bought the Micro Mark heavy duty mill with several key tooling items and am very happy with it. It has a brushless motor that has some real muscle and the collets hold the cutters snug and true. The dividing head is very useful for making capstan barrels and the like. At the moment I am milling a set of oar locks for a peapod, which will be a gift to one of my granddaughters. Duff
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Hi Pat, the spares were usually shaped, such as spare top masts, topgallants and maybe a yard or two. The AOS book 'Endeavour' by Marquardt, pages 135 and 136 show shaped spares under the ship's boats (on the gallows). If a ship needed a jury rig, the bosun would use what ever he could get aloft to fly a sail. Duff
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Turning brass thimbles
Richard Griffith replied to jdbondy's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Another method is similar to Jose's except I use a center punch to flair out both sides of the tube. Be sure to anneal the brass to make it soft. Duff -
For Beginners -- A Cautionary Tale
Richard Griffith replied to ccoyle's topic in New member Introductions
You bring up some excellent points, Chris. If the instructions are poor, come to NRG-MSW. If you become bored or de-motivated with the model, sell it and get one that stirs your imagination and passion. If the kit has poor materials, replace them with better. If there are too many issues with materials, then scratch build it. You can use the bulkheads and keel and hopefully some of the fittings. You can buy decent wood from Crown timber already milled to your specs and suppliers such as Bluejacket have lots of fittings. And, you are quite right - us modelers are problem solvers. We have to figure out how to hold parts, how to shape them using the tools we have, we decide the type of materials to use, the best glue and mechanical fasteners, the best finishes, etc etc. You are the artist and crafter, so you decide how you want your model to look. Duff- 240 replies
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For Beginners -- A Cautionary Tale
Richard Griffith replied to ccoyle's topic in New member Introductions
All very good comments and suggestions. I can not remember what got me started as it was a loooong time ago. I do think about why it still holds my interest. So here are a few more thoughts: 1. this hobby of wooden ship building requires many skills - working with wood, metal, plastics, paints and glues. So practicing the various skills and learning about the various skills and chemicals is challenging and rewarding. It seems that there are so many skills sets to work on, such as carving cherubs. 2. the process of building a model ship (wood or plastic) is a journey - one that has its own rewards. 3. selecting a ship to model must have some meaning to you, whatever it is, such as your granddad or great uncle sailed on it, or you read a story about it that stirred your imagination. If you have no passion for it, then you may never want to finish the build. 4. and the ship of your choice must be fun to build. (No one wants drudgery in their hobby.) Keep building and above all, have fun~! Duff -
I had the great honor to have met Mr. and Mrs. Crabtree during their visit at the NRG conference in Mystic Seaport back in the late 1960's or early '70's. We also had lunch together. Mr. Crabtree was taciturn but attentive while Mrs. C was the business partner. Mr. C had very large hands and keen eyesight. Perhaps his most amazing talents were his singular drive over 28 years of effort to his 'project' and his carving. He used a variety of woods to achieve the desired result: mostly apple for decks and hull planking, pear for frames and white thorn for the carvings. He also used other species as well. He harvested and seasoned his own woods, made his own fittings, fastenings, rope, sails and spars. Mrs. C did the paint work and I think some of the sails. (Google may have misstated his use of wood.) His collection is at the Mariners Museum and is quite spectacular. Duff
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Some of the birch species are also excellent for all around use, white in color, medium hard and inexpensive. Duff
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I also read this recently and concur with both Alan and Paul. A very good read. Duff
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Do You enjoy Rigging your ship?
Richard Griffith replied to bear's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Not everyone enjoys rigging, or some other aspects, so no apology needed. I happen to enjoy rigging, don't know why but all those lines control the yards and sails which drive the ship, and give character to her. I find rattling down to cause some dain bramage though, but a good ale straightens me out. And when done, she sure looks good. So, not every aspect gives the same enjoyment, but one must still git 'er done. Keep on building and above all, have fun. Duff -
The Heller kit includes the saddle and I think that is accurate. The best discussion of French rigging for this period is the 2 part article in the NRJ V 49#1 and V 48#4 wherein Mr. Richard H. Snyder digested several excellent French sources. You would do very well to have these during your build. Please keep us posted on your progress. Duff
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what is this wrapping called.......
Richard Griffith replied to ndeconte's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
You might also try 'coach whipping'. Duff -
Scrapers work by having a burr on its edge. Do not strop them. First, square the edge on a stone. If the edge is badly chewed up, start with a single cut mill file, then the stone. Then clamp the scraper in a vise (with wood or soft jaws) and burnish the edge with a harden rod at an angle of about 20 degrees. You may need to push down with some muscle a few times until you can feel the burr. The idea is to deform the corner into a burr. Scrape some wood to see if you get very thin curls. Hold the scraper at about a 15 degree angle but change the angle if the new angle gives you better results. If not, burnish some more. Keep building and above all, have fun~! Duff
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Igor, she is beautiful~! Duff
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Hey Captain, you might want to get the AOS book "The Armed Transport Bounty" by John McKay. It contains extreme detail of everything. ISBN 087021280x. It is selling for a reasonable amount on Ebay and Amazon. Duff
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