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yvesvidal

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Everything posted by yvesvidal

  1. yvesvidal
    I wonder how this Gunze/Revell kit compares with the Pocher/Protar/Italeri kits? It will be interesting to see your build. Yves
  2. yvesvidal
    You have to rotate them before inserting them.
  3. yvesvidal
    That is an incredibly old kit. I had never seen it before. Yves
  4. yvesvidal
    I am going through the same challenges with my Bellona and have decided to no longer follow the suggested documentation. So far, so good. Yves
  5. yvesvidal
    Overall, CAF kits are great and worth being more popular. You, Kevin and I, are pretty much the only active people building them, at this time. Yves
  6. yvesvidal
    My sentiments exactly. Well, at least, you know it is there...... and that will be your satisfaction. Yves
  7. yvesvidal
    When they see you coming at the show with your models, other participants are probably discouraged :-) Yves
  8. yvesvidal
    A quick update on the Quarterdeck, with a small improvement and modification of the original kit: The National Maritime Museum model presents a nice molding above the rear bulkhead. That molding is not present in the CAF Model kit and I wanted to add it: I used one of the 2 x 2 mm strips in the Session #4 box and after scrapping it with the correct shape, came up with this sandwich. Instead of the sub-floor going directly against the balusters/columns, I think it offers a little bit more realism for the stern of that ship. You can see (above) how the molding is placed: a 2 x 2 strip sitting on top of the bulkhead and a 2 x 2 strip scrapped and glued to it. It does not cover entirely the top of the balusters, but once the top deck is in place, it will be impossible to see that. Because of the introduction of that decorative molding, the top deck is raised by another 2 mm. At that point, the beams supporting the top deck must be raised to accommodate the change: This is easily done by placing a 2 mm thick piece of wood on top of the elbows, supporting the beams: Once everything is sanded smooth and cleaned, the poop deck fits nicely with just a slight curvature to eliminate the standing water: Note that the installation of these beams is part of the last Session #5. Overall view of the rear section and quarterdeck: Time to move back to the Gallery and the bow. Thank you all for your comments and encouragements, as they are very much appreciated. Yves
  9. yvesvidal
    You must be a jeweler in another life, Valeriy..... These guns are amazing. Yves
  10. yvesvidal
    What a beautiful construction. Chaperon is one of my favorite kits.... Yves
  11. yvesvidal
    With so many life boats, they seem to have learned their lessons, after the Titanic fiasco. Yves
  12. yvesvidal
    Finally, the building of the bulkhead separating the main cabins: Overall, it is pretty much the same way of building that partition. It is finally glued in place: Not much to see, once the poop deck will be in place: Time to install the diamond floor: That's it, for the quarterdeck. I still have the doors leading to the "Johns/Galleries" to build and a few details and we will be able to close the lid on all this :-( Yves
  13. yvesvidal
    The next phase is the building of the screen bulkhead. Here I wanted to depict it as close as possible to the National Maritime Museum model, which is basically painted in white. I only used some light gray for the windows and the wainscoting of the panels. Inside. the wood is just stained, lightly: The white putty is used to provide a very tight seal between the bulkhead and the planking. This prevents the light to go through. The rear screen bulkhead is slightly convex in shape. Yves
  14. yvesvidal
    With such a large quarterdeck, it was necessary to build the various partitions and walls, offered by the kit. Once again, all of the things you are seeing will be occulted by a bare poop deck. It is kind of sad in a way. The bulkhead located right behind the wheels and mizzen mast: All the assemblies are part of Session #4. The balusters/columns are 3D resin printed. I have replaced the printed corners with 3x3 mm cherry wood pieces, as the corner balusters provided in the kit were not matching at all. The resin parts were way too large and did not fit the limited space between the two sides. Below, an overall view: Yves
  15. yvesvidal
    ZOUKEI-MURA....the ultimate kit. Yves
  16. yvesvidal
    I like the contrast between the main stove and the polished copper lids. Yves
  17. yvesvidal
    Is that a John Stobart fine print? It reminds me of his style. What a great picture !!! Yves
  18. yvesvidal
    The difference in size between Bismarck and Yamato is quite obvious on your picture. Yves
  19. yvesvidal
    Big difference! It was worth redoing them with the U shaped strips and the brass wire. Yves
  20. yvesvidal
    Fantastic. What a great model.... I wish you could also model a section of the Mississippi river.... to go with it. Yves
  21. yvesvidal
    Hmmm.... I want to see some grease spilled on the deck.... 🙂 Yves
  22. yvesvidal
    Fantastic work. Yves
  23. yvesvidal
    At this stage, I can finally finish sub-floor and planking of the rear quarterdeck. But before we install the sub-floor, the rudder must be set in place and connected to the spring for an automatic neutral positioning: A little bit of vacuum cleaner to get rid of the dust and the sub-floor can be installed: Planking can be completed at this point: As usual, 0.5 mm maple planks, glued individually, sanded with 400 grit and treated with three coats of Wipe On Poly for depth of color and protection. Yves
  24. yvesvidal
    Time to populate the quarterdeck with a few features: The CAF Model kit does not provide the base plates to the deck. I took the inspiration from the superb 1/72nd Bellona built by Chris Watton and figured that if Chris had built these, he probably knew better than the CAF folks. It also makes for a much sturdier railing overall. Yves
  25. yvesvidal
    After installing the red window frames on the gallery, you can finish the poop windows: Those will cut very easily as the glass is paper thin and very easy to remove. Tracing paper is glued behind, sandwiched between two heavy plates for drying and the panes can be glued in place, as long as you can access them from behind, for optimal placement. Yves

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