yvesvidal
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Everything posted by yvesvidal
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Most definitely: the slower the curing, the harder it gets and the more it bonds. Always try to go with the 24 hours curing time..... Yves- 460 replies
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I completed Steps #12 and #13. That stem is massive and ultra solid. Did I mention heavy ? For the following steps, I think I am going to divert slightly from the instructions. I am still debating a solution that works and allows me to start shaping the hull, without installing the "horns" on the bulkheads. I am too afraid of breaking them. Yves Yves
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I thought a little update was overdue. There we go: working on Module #2, the 4 inches gun and blast shield deck. Very smooth transition from the wooden deck to the metallic deck. Nobody will stumble.... Here, I have added seven stanchions and some 0.9 mm brass wire to create the guide that prevents the gun from firing too low. The parts are soldered and then glued. Painted and assembled. Installation of the Blast shield. The kit provides a straight and too wide shield. From archives pictures of the Snowberry, I have reshaped that shield and added a corner and side walls, by printing a 30 mm long blast shield (from the kit). It looks a lot more realistic and prototypical: Hope you all like it so far. Next is the Hedgehog, which is ultra simplified in the kit to the point of being a disgrace. None of the rockets are represented..... :-( I don't know what I will do.... Yves
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I use Gesso a lot, doing some art paintings on the side. No need to spray it, it is self leveling and very easy to apply with a brush. You can get it at Jerry Artrama or Dick Blick for a small amount of dollars. It comes in white or black. I use the Liquitex but any brand should work fine. However, I still would go with a good automotive primer with filling capabilities. It sticks better than Gesso, which is designed for canvas, first of all. Yves
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I have used the same Vallejo Acrylic putty with success on my Corvette. Just make sure it dries completely before doing anything to it. Yves
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If my memory is correct, the Model Shipways plan only shows three planks for the "King Plank". At least that is what I did on my model. A very wide plank in the middle and two smaller ones on the sides. Yves
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Valeriy, I hope you are not going to paint those cowls.... They look incredible in brass. Yves
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Rattlesnake: Excellent choice and a ship with a lot of pedigree. I will be following your Build log. Yves
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Superb model. You did a great job and the allure of this little smack boat is very well rendered. Yves
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Alan, This is superb. That hull is looking very good and you should not worry too much about the imperfections. Mine has plenty and once it is sanded, primed and painted, it will only be a bad memory. I think your cat wants to go sailing.....but he needs the stern. RCing that model will add another level of complexity but the kit is truly designed for that purpose. I have a little pond near by, but it is full of frogs, turtles and a blue heron. I do not think I am welcome there and thus my model will be static. To give you an idea, I spent a lot of time sanding that hull. Yes, seam lines are missing but who cares....? I also sprayed two cans of primer on the hull itself, before getting to a decent results. That plastic as you mentioned is really unpleasant to work with and I suppose the goal of this PLA material is to produce finished products. It is not styrene or polystyrene. Yves
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Few weeks or few months ....? You are gifting your children with wonderful masterpieces. I hope they will treasure them and care for them as you did during their construction. WE (the People of this Forum) need a TITANIC build Log. Please..... Yves
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Moving along with Steps 10 and 11: I built the Bulkhead #5. You really have to be careful about the small parts, where to find them and how to piece them together. It is a real puzzle. If you decide to detach parts too early from their wood sprues, you are toasted. The manual and the drawing of the parts location is your only chance of success. Once you have gathered all the right parts, the assembly is a breeze. It is like gluing a puzzle or building a Lego. The fit is perfect and everything is well thought out by the kit designer(s). These two "bones" can be glued to Bulkhead #5. The manual only displays pictures. It is like building an IKEA furniture, in a way. I wished they could have put some text and recommendations in plain English to help with the novice builders like me. All the little parts are made with cherry wood. Bulkhead #5 is now glued to the spine: I have oiled the stem and keel and really like the color and the silkiness of the cherry wood. It brings a nice distraction from the plywood and make the model so much more precious. Moving along with more parts.... That model is going to be HUGE !!!!! Yves
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Same stuff with Speedpak with E-Bay. You pass the USA customs in China, before loading on the plane or the ship. No need to carry it, if it does not pass the customs. Yves
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Wow, you have been quite active !!! Maybe you should start another Build Log for your Arizona. Very impressive kit and all these metal parts make it very precious and beautiful. Yves
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Beautiful hull. Great shape, a la Herreshoff !!! Yves
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Thank you Mtaylor. Yes, I have sanded it in pretty much the same way the original model is depicted. Thank you for the pointer. Yves
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These offset turrets are interesting. These engineers had plenty of ideas.... Yves
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I would say the ship is slightly too heavy on the bow, especially at the speed where you took it. Yves
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I have a few questions for the experts of period ships: 1) How do you finish the angles of the stem? Do you leave them square or do you sand them slightly to smooth the sharp edges? I am assuming that these ships did not have a polished and round stem to break the waves at 3 to 5 knots of speed....not really useful. 2) What is the best way to protect that cherry stem, for now? Would you use an oil? The final model is supposed to have the copper tiles and a stem painted black. However, it may be months or years before I get to that stage, if I ever do. Yves
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I am now building the stem. Steps 4 and 5: The fit is pretty good, out of the box: The keel is now glued to the main spine: This is done with the Lowe's ruler, clamped to a flat table to provide a good base. The keel is placed against the ruler and the spine rests on styrene cards of 1 mm thick. Spine is 10 mm, keel is 12 mm thick, leaving 1 mm on each side. Plenty of heavy weights are placed upon the assembly to make sure the whole keel/spine is perfectly flat. In the meantime, the stem has been glued, cleaned and polished. The cherry wood is very pleasant for the eyes and even better to the touch: Finally, the stem is glued to the previous keel/spine assembly: This ship is going to be massive: And yes, it holds vertically, by itself: Next, we will be assembling bulkheads and placing them on the spine. So far, I am very pleased with the kit and even though the cherry wood is hard to work at (at least with my tools - I do everything by hand, no electric sander), all the parts are fitting very well. Yves
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Another beautiful kit. James, you are unstoppable !!!! Yves
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