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SJSoane

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Everything posted by SJSoane

  1. SJSoane
    Hi everyone, I continue to work on the stern, which proves to be the most complex thing I have ever built. Each piece interacts with several others, like a basket-weave. Nothing can be finally fixed, until others are fixed, which in turn depend on the first piece, etc. I discovered that even pinning things together doesn't entirely work, because the pieces move enough that fine fitting of another part is always off a bit. So I decided to firm up the middle, with the rudder port chocks glued to the two adjacent vertical timbers, holding the center timber. With this as a foundation, the other parts can be fitted to something solid. That center piece was a bit tricky to shape, and I am showing a Sherline vise held by my bench vise, which allowed it to be held without breaking the open end. I am also showing the helm port transom on the fore side of the timbers. Eventually, it will be cut in the middle, to come down to the top of the stern post. But I decided to keep it whole while fitting everything, to keep everything in alignment. I keep thinking I am only a short time away from gluing it all up, but each little fitting of parts takes forever. Maybe next week.... Best wishes, Mark
  2. SJSoane
    Nice, Remco! I am glad the jig idea worked for you. I would be lost without it. I am sure we will both be happy when we construct and install the window frames, knowing everything is already accurately spaced and hopefully symmetrical. Did you cut that very clean rabbet in the fore edge of the transom with a hand chisel? Best wishes, Mark
  3. SJSoane
    Michael, it is time to consider running a workshop on metal work. You are the master! Mark
  4. SJSoane
    Thanks, Ed, that is a very thoughtful answer to the question of how the clippers could be pared down to minimal structure necessary. It is always a design aspiration, to get the most done with the least material.... Mark
  5. SJSoane
    Hi Ed, Very interesting, to see the inboard works of the clipper compared to your Naiad. So there are no riding timbers or other transverse structural members in the lower hull? Or is that still to come? Mark
  6. SJSoane
    Gaetan, Those head rails are visual poetry. Those shipwrights were geniuses of function and art. Mark
  7. SJSoane
    Doris, It is so rare to see so many crew on these models. It really brings the ship to life, and gives it a great scale. A masterpiece. Mark
  8. SJSoane
    I would add to the previous comments that a book on this topic by you would be a best seller! Mark
  9. SJSoane
    Hi Michael, I am not getting much time away from work to check on the website lately, but I did stop in to see your progress. Looking great! Mark
  10. SJSoane
    I would add that cutting the thin piece on the fence side means that you cannot easily use a push stick. I use one that hooks over the fence, and has some sandpaper on the bottom surface to grip the stock. It keeps the stock flat on the table, and tight against the fence. this helps avoid any vibration in the cut. But this needs enough stock between the blade and the fence to give clearance for the push stick. Much easier and safer to cut the thin piece off the blade side, and then index the fence over with the stop for the next cut. Mark
  11. SJSoane
    Michael, I keep forgetting that you are actually going to sail this. A whole new set of complexities! Mark
  12. SJSoane
    Doris, Every crew member added makes it even better! Mark
  13. SJSoane
    Thanks, Mark, don't you sometimes feel you are channeling model builders from the 18th century, when you make exactly the same piece you know they made 2 ½ centuries ago? Thank you Doris, coming from you who is one of the very best builders on this site, this is a very high compliment!
  14. SJSoane
    Michael, Just scale up those metal fitting to full size, and you could open a boat chandler shop. Can you do a line in flotation devices? ;-) Forging--beyond my comprehension how you do it, and do it so well. Mark
  15. SJSoane
    Thanks, Michael. I don't know how I would have pulled this off without a jig. Each piece depends upon several other pieces to locate it, so everything is floating around without something to anchor it at least temporarily. And now the most important part--equal spacing of the window frames--is guaranteed by the original spacing in the jig. I can only imagine how the original shipwrights located these two story tall counter timbers. There must have been lot of shoring and propping... Mark
  16. SJSoane
    Beautiful, Alex, exceptional craftsmanship. Mark
  17. SJSoane
    Hi Michael, Your metal parts are so well done they look full scale; until I see your hand in the photo. Exceptionally well done! Mark
  18. SJSoane
    Very nice, Alexandru!
  19. SJSoane
    Hi everyone, After many months, I was finally able to remove the jig today, and see the stern in all its glory. I still have to trim the short pieces in the window sill area, and fair inside and out before finally gluing up and starting the transoms inboard. But it is definitely looking more like a real stern. The whole thing is shockingly fragile. No wonder a broadside into the stern would just about finish the day.... Best wishes, Mark
  20. SJSoane
    I can't wait to see the entire crew, or at least those above decks.... Beautiful work! Mark
  21. SJSoane
    Michael, Perfection! Your skills are astounding. Mark
  22. SJSoane
    Hi Gaetan, I had heard of those Gary Fong light diffusers, but didn't know how it would help with photograph of models. Now I see. Thanks! Mark
  23. SJSoane
    Hi everyone, A little more progress. I used the jig to shape the quarterdeck transom, by gluing sandpaper on the upper surface of the jig to fair the transom to it. I also fitted three clamps to hold the transom in place while I marked the dovetails with the vertical counter timbers. The first photo shows the transom before dovetailing, set forward from the aft face of the counter timbers so the frames for the lights can fit flush between the vertical timbers. The original Bellona model shows this offset between counter timber and transom, and it took me sometime to figure out; perhaps I'll do a drawing later to show this. The second photo shows the counter timbers dovetailed into the quarterdeck transom. I only have to make the upper counter moulding, fair the faces of the counter timbers, and it is time to glue up! That will be another month at my current rate.... Mark
  24. SJSoane
    Hi Doris, Your model is gorgeous. I just noticed the smoke discoloration at the top of the stove chimney. Very nice touch! Mark
  25. SJSoane
    Beautiful work, Michael, as usual. And every step makes it look even better! Mark

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