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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Just to be clear this is the work of Denis Rakaric, on behalf of Admiralty Models. I believe his work ranks among the best in the world!
  2. dvm27
    I got the Porter Cable hot air gun off Amazon. It was somewhere around $35. I shape the plank off the model by applying heat wherever required to get the twist and bend I need. Just keep gentle shaping, offer up to model to assess then add more heat where bend or twist is still needed. It's quite therapeutic because your're shaping it to the hull and not relying on clamps and soaking to massage it into place. When finished, I don't need clamps to secure the plank; just glue and 90 seconds of finger pressure (I still use clamps after it appears set, though, just to be sure there is maximum adhesion throughout the entire plank). Extreme bends at one end can be done by using a pair of pliers to facilitate the curve under heat On caveat - the hot air gun is...hot!!! As Fire Safety Engineer Kurt has pointed out it can burn wood or flesh quite easily. I can attest to smokey gloves when first learning to use it.
  3. dvm27
    Darn it , Mark. I just encountered the exact same problem and your solution seems to do the trick. I assume you removed the yellow rubber insets to extend the width of the clamp? Have you tried a hot air gun? I'm achieving twists and bends I thought were impossible before. No more overnight clamping of wet wood for me! Look at this beautiful piece of 1/8" boxwood I ruined while experimenting with the hot air gun the first day I received it. That was a month ago and the shape is exactly the same.
  4. dvm27
    Lovely work Marsalv! I'm trying to envision how you fished that collar under the bowsprit with all those other elements in place!
  5. dvm27
    With regards to wood movement I am reminded of a anecdote by Robert Bruckshaw, whose Navy Board style models are (or were) on display in the Smithsonian Museum. After framing the hull he took a break from it for several months. Upon returning to the model he noted the hull was a full 1/4 " shorter. Fearing the worst, he covered it with a wet cloth and returned 24 hours later to find it had returned to it's specified length. He added clamps and wales and that was the end of the problem.
  6. dvm27
    Been an enthusiastic user of the Sherline mill and lathe for over 15 years. Check out their Craftsmanship page https://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/. Great stuff!
  7. dvm27
    Great photos, Mark! I have the same problem with my current hull. A couple of the joint lines along the continuous solid plane have separated. I have filled and sanded but they reappear religiously, always in the same place. Wood just wants to be wood!
  8. dvm27
    Mark, if you're going to continue doing work of this quality (which obviously you are) you must take some of that hoarded retirement income and invest in a camera with macro capabilities and post higher resolution photographs. I had no doubt you were going to solve the wale planking issue flawlessly and we all want to see your work close up to find those .001" gaps you must have somewhere. I mean, you are human aren't you?!?!
  9. dvm27
    Nice work, Ben. She looks like a great side project to palliate the inevitable burnout that accompanies a multi-year build.
  10. dvm27
    Yes, David and I (Admiralty Models) are excited to partner with Chuck on this new project. Both of our companies share the same philosophy with regards to service and quality. I, for one, can't wait to see how Chuck innovates our cross-section and makes it accessible to those lacking scroll saws, spindle sanders and the like. I have seen Chuck's concept for constructing built up frames and believe that beginners with a bit of confidence to advanced model makers will be able to make a beautiful fully framed model small enough to fit on their desk. Here is my version of the Pegasus cross-section which was constructed as a side project when building the full version. Chuck's may not look exactly like this but his will be similar (probably nicer!).
  11. dvm27
    We want to make this CD as accurate and fun as possible but also affordable to everyone. Some of the higher end animations may not run on everyone's computers. We'll have to see how large the files are when finished. But chew on these for now. Denis is a genius!
  12. dvm27
    Will follow this topic, Chuck. I really liked the frame building technique you shared with me previously. I think this will be a very satisfying mini project for a lot of people. I suspect most of them would leave 1/2 of the frames unplanked. Best, Greg
  13. dvm27
    Yes, Dan, it will be available to all, most likely on a thumb drive as these files are huge!
  14. dvm27
    Nice work, Ben. Keep on marking that centerline cause everything looks perfectly symmetrical.
  15. dvm27
    You have insanely high standards, Johann. Which is why your model is amongst the tops!
  16. dvm27
    Regarding the wood blanks for masts and spars I have had similar problems (I believe it's referred to as sprung wood). Jeff Hayes, formerly of the HobbyMill, was particularly adept at providing perfectly straight lengths of boxwood for mast and spars. I have some blanks of wood from him over a decade old that are still straight as a pool cue.
  17. dvm27
    I just tried out my new Porter Cable hot air gun for the first time and the results were astonishing! I bent a 1/8" boxwood strip, 1/2" wide, in several directions in less thank a minute. No water, no opening grain and no marks. It's almost as if the lignins are liquified and retain their new shape as the heat is turned off. Although not happy about ruining a perfectly good strip of boxwood I'm never going back to soaking wood and clamping in place until dry to bend. But be careful not to burn your fingers! I did use a blow dryer previously, as Chuck has demonstrated, and achieved mixed results but nothing comparable to the above. Here's a link for anyone interested. Thanks to Michael for exposing me to it (I believe) in one of his posts. https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC1500HG-1500-Watt-Heat-Gun/dp/B004Q04X44/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1514407837&sr=8-3&keywords=hot+air+gun
  18. dvm27
    Well, Dave, you are correct in that the clearance is insufficient for the outer pump tube to pass between the well wall and the carling. Your choices would either be to cut it into the well wall or to move the carling 2" inboard (as I did). I believe I also may have narrowed the lower deck partner and carlings an inch or two but I can't recall. At any rate with the inner-most deck planks hiding the evidence I can't be sure. Just cut a blank tube to the correct dimensions and shipwright it until it fits.
  19. dvm27
    Well-done, Ben!
  20. dvm27
    The fore and aft faces of my rudderhead cover are parallel, Toni. Aesthetically, it looks pleasing and I believe this is how David has illustrated it in TFFM.
  21. dvm27
    Yes Cliff, a picture is worth a thousand words. I, of course, am omitting the numerous intermediate photos involved in every step of the building process that Denis has included. I would highly recommend any Swan class model builders to wait until the work is finished as it is as valuable as TFFM texts are for building.
  22. dvm27
    Nice work, Ben. Rather than remake an entire beam I found that adding a small wafer on the short end, then blending to fit, worked very well for me.
  23. dvm27
    Our Swan rendering guru Denis is already up to Chapter 9 in The Fully Framed Model. Those who have built a Swan class model will appreciate how detailed and perfect (unlike our models) his work is. Note the sandwiched leather between saucers in the second photo emerging from the pump within the cistern. Enjoy and Happy Holidays from Admiralty Models!
  24. dvm27
    Welcome aboard Steve. You may be interested in the work of Olof Erikson. Olof has built a Cutty Sark as well as Victory and Constitution...all in steel. Of course he has the advantage of being a master machinist and owns a large industrial manufacturing company where he also built his models in his spare time (or on the clock since it's his company). Here's a link to some photos of one of his models http://uniquesystems.com/u-s-s-constitution/. Do consider that a fully rigged (steel rigging of course) steel model of Constitution weighs 1300 pounds and requires a case 15' x 8' x 10'. This could upset some spouses. His Victory Model is featured in a two part Scale Ship Modeler Magazine (1990) article and this stainless steel model is an exact duplicate of Longridge's model in London, right down to the anchor stock planking of the hull.
  25. dvm27
    Lovely work, Ben. You'll be happy to know that your meticulous work will be only partially visible once the lower deck is in place and invisible after the upper deck is framed in (even if unplanked. But if you're of the mindset that every joint should be perfect (you obviously are) even if the detail will be hidden later on your model will be stunning.

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