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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    One of the loveliest features of some of the Navy Board models and Dr. Longridge's Victory is the graceful catenary of the stays. I notice it developing in my only rigged model made 15 years ago. I suppose it's impossible to duplicate on a new model as real rope has weight, especially when wet, that just doesn't scale down to create a catenary. I have seen this replicated with rope spun around a wire core (Lloyd McCaffery) to very good effect. The photo with the fully loaded fairlead planks is fantastic, Ed!
  2. dvm27
    Extraordinary work, Mark! Those small filler frames are so perfect they almost look fake. No gaps after all these years? Just curious - were those moulding blanks cut to shape or steamed into shape?
  3. dvm27
    Mark - there is a nice video on making a form tool for the cascabel of a cannon on You Tube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3-XFfc82ew In fact, all of his videos (including turning a cannon barrel) are mesmerizing.
  4. dvm27
    I agree with Chuck that the best course would be to but a sheet of 1/4" thick x 3" wide boxwood sheet from Jason. If you don't have a small table saw he may even slice off the 1/4" x 3/8" keel slice you need from the sheet. If you are scratch building your brig you'll certainly have need of the rest of the sheet at some point.
  5. dvm27
    I love working with boxwood Brian. It has little grain and maintains a crisp edge. I'm curious as to what part of your ship would require a baulk of wood larger than Jason can provide. Perhaps the main mast of a First Rate at 1:48 scale?
  6. dvm27
    This sets the bar for what ship model kits should look like!
  7. dvm27
    I was wondering about that Mark, as the guns looked to be sitting a bit low in the ports without the decking under them. As I have learned, much of your painstaking work will be hidden once you add the deck(s) above. But we'll always have those photos (which we never look at).
  8. dvm27
    Yes you are technically correct, Alan. What I have used are simulated bungs. I'm not sure I've seen a model deck correctly spiked, countersunk then bored to receive a bung. That level of detail would be quite remarkable. The point is that the trunnels I use are @ 1.75" in diameter, roughly the same diameter as a bung. So the end result looks the same except the bungs are end grain. To quote David Antscherl in The Fireship Comet "I did not treenail the deck, as in the original ships the plugs that covered nails and other fasteners were virtually invisible, as they were side-grained rather than end-grained." Bottom line is that they should be barely visible at 1:48 scale.
  9. dvm27
    Another huge fan, Doris. Would love to see you demonstrate your techniques at a Nautical Guild Research meeting one day!
  10. dvm27
    Very clever, Mark. It's a very hard area to apply clamping pressure to.
  11. dvm27
    The canvas top and belaying pins are just marvellous, Michael.
  12. dvm27
    Perhaps apply cyano liquid over the repaired joint? It should penetrate and strengthen the area.
  13. dvm27
    I look forward to this build. As Heinrich mentioned, it is in the same class as our Speedwell ketch-rigged sloop of war. I also question the use of a wheel vs. tiller on a ship of this size but have not seen contemporary plans for Wolfe (if they exist). I do have the Wolfe monograph by Shipyard and it is very well done. The card model kit is not inexpensive and I do hope they included it.
  14. dvm27
    When drawing bamboo down to 0.018" they are barely perceptible on the model, especially if you sand the plank before installing them on the model. On your next model, where you'll have thousands of them, make sure you bamboo stock is fairly uniform. I ran out while making my last model and the replacement bamboo was decidedly darker.
  15. dvm27
    Bravo, Toni! I wouldn't know how to display her...unplanked side out, planked side out? They're equally exquisite. Greg
  16. dvm27
    It's a nice little book with beautiful color photographs but hardly comprehensive. Those wishing a more complete treatise on the subject would could do no better than Englishman of War 1600-1850 by Peter Goodwin or Arming and Fitting the English Ships of War 1600-1815 by Brian Lavery
  17. dvm27
    Either you have very small hands or that's a very large model, Michael. Exquisite work!
  18. dvm27
    Congratulations on landing this contract, Dan. Lucky you're a lawyer because that contract would be rather daunting for a lay person!
  19. dvm27
    Just curious Ed. Have you ever tried working with silk? There are Navy Board models in Annapolis with original silk rigging. Surgical silk can be had in very small diameters (ex. 6-0 silk = 0.1 mm diameter). I've used it for ratlines and it worked very well.
  20. dvm27
    Welcome back Dave. Lovely work as ever. Congrats on the new home (and workshop)!
  21. dvm27
    I will eventually sell my entire ship model reference collection...except for these Model Shipwright books (and of course our Swan series 😉 ). They represent the best examples of writing, construction and collection of esteemed authors (Hahn, McNarry, McCallup, White, Antscherl, etc) that our hobby has offered since the 1970s. I don't believe they will ever be digitized so I shall happily read them in my old age, with trifocals, reminiscing about the golden age of ship model making. BTW, most of these are available on the Advanced Book Exchange for 5-10$ each. So Nav is offering them at an exceptional price.
  22. dvm27
    Bravo Marsalv! Well deserved.
  23. dvm27
    Congratulations on the completion of an extraordinary Swan class model, Toni! You've done TFFM chapter and verse and my hats off to you.
  24. dvm27
    Unless your model has an unusually bluff bow the planks will fit into the rabbet at an angle. Thus the fore end of the plank needs to be angled to match. If it still does not fit flush perhaps your rabbet is too shallow or not wide enough. The plank needs to be pre-shaped to fit the curve of the bow without a lot of pressure or the fore end (hooding) may lift up a bit. Sometimes it is helpful to glue just the very end of the plank into place first. Once set it will be easier to glue the rest of the plank down without the end lifting from the rabbet.
  25. dvm27
    That is a very lovely model Chuck. Tell me your not tempted to float it in the sink!

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