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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Bravo, Toni! I wouldn't know how to display her...unplanked side out, planked side out? They're equally exquisite. Greg
  2. dvm27
    It's a nice little book with beautiful color photographs but hardly comprehensive. Those wishing a more complete treatise on the subject would could do no better than Englishman of War 1600-1850 by Peter Goodwin or Arming and Fitting the English Ships of War 1600-1815 by Brian Lavery
  3. dvm27
    Either you have very small hands or that's a very large model, Michael. Exquisite work!
  4. dvm27
    Congratulations on landing this contract, Dan. Lucky you're a lawyer because that contract would be rather daunting for a lay person!
  5. dvm27
    Just curious Ed. Have you ever tried working with silk? There are Navy Board models in Annapolis with original silk rigging. Surgical silk can be had in very small diameters (ex. 6-0 silk = 0.1 mm diameter). I've used it for ratlines and it worked very well.
  6. dvm27
    Welcome back Dave. Lovely work as ever. Congrats on the new home (and workshop)!
  7. dvm27
    I will eventually sell my entire ship model reference collection...except for these Model Shipwright books (and of course our Swan series 😉 ). They represent the best examples of writing, construction and collection of esteemed authors (Hahn, McNarry, McCallup, White, Antscherl, etc) that our hobby has offered since the 1970s. I don't believe they will ever be digitized so I shall happily read them in my old age, with trifocals, reminiscing about the golden age of ship model making. BTW, most of these are available on the Advanced Book Exchange for 5-10$ each. So Nav is offering them at an exceptional price.
  8. dvm27
    Bravo Marsalv! Well deserved.
  9. dvm27
    Congratulations on the completion of an extraordinary Swan class model, Toni! You've done TFFM chapter and verse and my hats off to you.
  10. dvm27
    Unless your model has an unusually bluff bow the planks will fit into the rabbet at an angle. Thus the fore end of the plank needs to be angled to match. If it still does not fit flush perhaps your rabbet is too shallow or not wide enough. The plank needs to be pre-shaped to fit the curve of the bow without a lot of pressure or the fore end (hooding) may lift up a bit. Sometimes it is helpful to glue just the very end of the plank into place first. Once set it will be easier to glue the rest of the plank down without the end lifting from the rabbet.
  11. dvm27
    That is a very lovely model Chuck. Tell me your not tempted to float it in the sink!
  12. dvm27
    Chuck's incredible modeling skills aside, his wood choice does have a very pleasing scale appearance when viewed close up. Looks a lot like full scale pine to me. Certainly more realistic than boxwood in my opinion. I've been working on a project using the yellow cedar for the first time and had trouble achieving a finish similar to Chucks. He recommended using much finer sandpaper 280 - 400 grit and the results are much better.
  13. dvm27
    I do have a complete set of those Micro Shapers and find the profiles too large for most of the moldings I need at 1:48 scale.
  14. dvm27
    You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.
  15. dvm27
    Great planking tutorial, Chuck. Of course, you could transfer those faired tick marks from your hull to the edge of the laser cut frames for the production run. One might introduce slight variations while raising the frames but overall it would be easy to adjust the spiled planks to these reference marks. But then you are providing the fish instead of teaching how to fish.
  16. dvm27
    For those wishing to purchase rivets and bolts of very small size check out https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/rivets. They purchased Scale Hardware when they went out of business and have an ibcredible varieth of micro fasteners.
  17. dvm27
    Hey, does that mean we can all visit your workshop, Remco? I'm less than 8 hours away (by jet).
  18. dvm27
    It’s been an absolute pleasure to watch your restoration of this model Michael!
  19. dvm27
    The launching structures are well described in Building the Wooden Fighting Ship by Dodds and Moore. Those are driver screws at the bow which apply force to get the keel in motion after the supports are knocked away. The cradle is removed after the ship is launched.
  20. dvm27
    Wonderful joinery. Looks like a terrific model in the making!
  21. dvm27
    If you look on page 280 of TFFM (forward elevation) the fore face has a top and bottom lip as well as quarter round molding. Perhaps it's different with just a tiller but it seems like it would prevent small objects from falling through the deck opening.
  22. dvm27
    Really nice job on those swivels, Toni! I also very much prefer the second version of your rudderhead cover. But is it missing the fore face under the tiller?
  23. dvm27
    That's a spectacular display, Albert, and reminiscent of many contemporary Navy Board displays. A silly question perhaps but are you somehow incorporating a glass case around your dockyard?
  24. dvm27
    Table III in David's Volume 4 of The Fully Framed Model lists all the blocks on the fore and main yards for a start. Then simply go through each page of the book and tabulate the rest. Give us the results and he'll be sure to credit you in the addendum to the Volume 4 reprint
  25. dvm27
    That California model is gorgeous, Michael. Thanks for the link. Something luxurious about all brass funnels with the red lining. That whole telegraph wire arrangement would scare the crap out of me if I were a passenger!

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