dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Very nice work Jason. I like the spirketting and coaming colors, I find that automotive black spray primer followed by sprayed black does a nice job of simulating iron. The key is to apply several light coats so no detail is obscured. -
Black wire for eye bolts/rings
dvm27 replied to Johnnyreg's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I've recently switched to Birchwood Casey Brass Black as I find it easier and more consistent than the Jax blackener. I also use 320 grit sandpaper on the brass (or before I form rings and other small items). Soak the piece in alcohol first (or vinegar) to degrease. The B.C. solution is applied with a small brush and only takes 10-15 seconds to work. Rinse in water then see if you want the piece darker. If so just repeat the above process. I also do not solder my rings but do file the ends after forming the circle. This makes a neat joint. I can't imagine why you would need to solder the breeching rings unless your cannon was actually going to fire! And I now use only silver soldering paste. It is self fluxing and flows beautifully, Check out https://www.beaducation.com/pc/393-jewelry-making-tools-soldering-fusing-tools. Also, look at the videos on silver soldering and other jewelry work. they're terrific. And remember - you need a tight joint for silver solder to flow.- 35 replies
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Excellent redo, Toni!
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Great start, Omega. Curious web site for this yacht. Only exterior photos. Usually, there are numerous photos of the staterooms and cabins with yachts such as these.
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Great photo, Ed! I'd never seen those fairleads before. I also appreciate the way the ratline ends were spliced. I don't recall how you handled these in your build but if you managed to splice them on your model I'd need to rate your model an 11 (ala Monty Python) instead of a perfect 10.
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It's been almost four years since Pete posted here. I miss your updates, Pete. You built some very fine models.
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
dvm27 replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Why am I not surprised that your sails are as perfect as the rest of your model? Lovely work. -
You certainly nailed that joint Mike. Now go nail that joint.
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- winchelsea
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Wonderful work, Amalio. I love the way all the cannon tackle and ropes droop realistically over the wheels
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Congratulations on a lovely build and very interesting vessel Maury!
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Looking very good Mike. That slotted bulkhead (#29) shows this to be a very well thought out and designed kit! It address all the usual problems associated with raising the counter timbers.
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- winchelsea
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You might want to check with Alex M, Mark (https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/410-hms-sphynx-by-alex-m-scale-148-english-20-gun-frigate-as-build-1775/&). His wales are planked exactly like yours and he managed to blacken them perfectly after the hull was fully planked. I have blackened wood on my model by scoring the boundry line with a scalpel and applying blue painters tape. This was Druxey's suggestion and it worked well for me. But, as a rule, I try to keep Fiebings dye as far from my model as possible. One errant drop on the previosuly laid deck is irrepairable.
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Terrific posting, Ed! It's amazing how well the wipe on poly resists smudging from alcohol and blackening solution. Blackening in place certainly solves the problem of damaging the metal finish during installation. I note an additional iron band on the starboard yard plan that was not installed on the model (eighth from center). Illustration error?
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Your carvings make a very nice overall impression, Toni. Atalanta seems fully recovered from your broadside. I guess the prior damage to the counter timbers with your elbow was a warning shot!
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Looks great Mark! You know, looking at videos of real wooden ship building I believe planking is more difficult for us. We need to have precisely mated joints. The real builders left gaps which were later filled with caulking material.
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Thanks, everyone, for your terrific response. I was hoping for ten and there were thirty! I'll have to cap it here. Order takes about three weeks and I'll e-mail you for addresses and payment information. Greg amd David www.admiraltymodels.com
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You picked a great section to model with lots of interesting details. Very fine job!
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"Too much information". But accidents do happen in the workshop Druxey so we must be prepared!
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Just to clarify, Mike, I use only two small beads of CA at the extreme end of the plank to make sure the plank does not move while the carpenters glue sets. This was Harold Hahn's technique and it works quite well, ninety seconds of digital pressure (by the clock). This also works quite well for bleeding - five minutes of direct pressure by the clock.
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I just apply a couple of small drops of cyano to the plank at the very tip. As for the yellow glue I apply it to the hull and edge of the plank. Probably the cyano sets on contact if it overlaps the yellow glue on the hull but I had no problems. As always, I clean the joints with a paint brush dipped in water before any squeeze out dries. On my hull I used cyano every 4th or 5th frame with yellow glue on the rest. But I had spaces between the frames. Your wales gluing surface is continuous so I would just add a small pencil mark on the surface of the plank to be installed and the corresponding wale location for the location of the cyano drop. Needless to say you want to press that plank into position exactly where you want it as the cyano bites quickly! Think of it as an internal clamp.
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Lovely work, Siggi. Your planking shows the beautiful flowing lines of your model. And the finished figurehead is a reminder of the level of perfection you strive for in your models.
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Yes, adding deck clamps and internal details makes clamping of the outside planks more difficult. What finally worked for me was to glue only the first 1/2" or so of the plank in place (also using a couple drops of cyanoacrylate on its edge at the rabbet). As no curves are involved here all that was needed was digital pressure for 90 seconds until the cyano and carpenters glue tacked. Then I used one of your horizontal clamps on this section and let it set for several hours. Once the fore end of the plank was secure on the hull it was relatively easy to glue in the rest of the plank, repeating the above technique every inch or so. This way you are only dealing with short sections of curves or twists at a time. It is time consuming but worked quite well for me.
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Great progress report Chuck! Technically, the upper sill mortises are angled cuts and the lower ones are called birdsmouth mortises (V-shaped like a beak). As they are only an inch or two deep and cause endless difficulties to everyone but David Antscherl I think your simple mortise solution is excellent. During the fairing process the joint itself becomes barely visible anyway. And any slight gaps are easily erased by placing some white glue in the space followed by light sanding.
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I was wondering about that Mark, having just completed a similar process. Did those parallel mini-clamps at the bow tend to lift the bottom edge of the lowest wale plank off the hull? Or perhaps your plank was so perfectly spiled that it fit in all directions?
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Thanks to a terrific response I can proceed with the order. I'm just going to wait a few days before proceeding as I keep receiving additional orders.
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