dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Regarding the wood blanks for masts and spars I have had similar problems (I believe it's referred to as sprung wood). Jeff Hayes, formerly of the HobbyMill, was particularly adept at providing perfectly straight lengths of boxwood for mast and spars. I have some blanks of wood from him over a decade old that are still straight as a pool cue.- 19 replies
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- milling wood
- echo cross section
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I just tried out my new Porter Cable hot air gun for the first time and the results were astonishing! I bent a 1/8" boxwood strip, 1/2" wide, in several directions in less thank a minute. No water, no opening grain and no marks. It's almost as if the lignins are liquified and retain their new shape as the heat is turned off. Although not happy about ruining a perfectly good strip of boxwood I'm never going back to soaking wood and clamping in place until dry to bend. But be careful not to burn your fingers! I did use a blow dryer previously, as Chuck has demonstrated, and achieved mixed results but nothing comparable to the above. Here's a link for anyone interested. Thanks to Michael for exposing me to it (I believe) in one of his posts. https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC1500HG-1500-Watt-Heat-Gun/dp/B004Q04X44/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1514407837&sr=8-3&keywords=hot+air+gun
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Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
dvm27 replied to davec's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Well, Dave, you are correct in that the clearance is insufficient for the outer pump tube to pass between the well wall and the carling. Your choices would either be to cut it into the well wall or to move the carling 2" inboard (as I did). I believe I also may have narrowed the lower deck partner and carlings an inch or two but I can't recall. At any rate with the inner-most deck planks hiding the evidence I can't be sure. Just cut a blank tube to the correct dimensions and shipwright it until it fits.
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The fore and aft faces of my rudderhead cover are parallel, Toni. Aesthetically, it looks pleasing and I believe this is how David has illustrated it in TFFM.
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Swan class 3D model in progress
dvm27 replied to dvm27's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Yes Cliff, a picture is worth a thousand words. I, of course, am omitting the numerous intermediate photos involved in every step of the building process that Denis has included. I would highly recommend any Swan class model builders to wait until the work is finished as it is as valuable as TFFM texts are for building.- 141 replies
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- pof swan series
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Nice work, Ben. Rather than remake an entire beam I found that adding a small wafer on the short end, then blending to fit, worked very well for me.
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Swan class 3D model in progress
dvm27 replied to dvm27's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Our Swan rendering guru Denis is already up to Chapter 9 in The Fully Framed Model. Those who have built a Swan class model will appreciate how detailed and perfect (unlike our models) his work is. Note the sandwiched leather between saucers in the second photo emerging from the pump within the cistern. Enjoy and Happy Holidays from Admiralty Models!
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Welcome aboard Steve. You may be interested in the work of Olof Erikson. Olof has built a Cutty Sark as well as Victory and Constitution...all in steel. Of course he has the advantage of being a master machinist and owns a large industrial manufacturing company where he also built his models in his spare time (or on the clock since it's his company). Here's a link to some photos of one of his models http://uniquesystems.com/u-s-s-constitution/. Do consider that a fully rigged (steel rigging of course) steel model of Constitution weighs 1300 pounds and requires a case 15' x 8' x 10'. This could upset some spouses. His Victory Model is featured in a two part Scale Ship Modeler Magazine (1990) article and this stainless steel model is an exact duplicate of Longridge's model in London, right down to the anchor stock planking of the hull.
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Lovely work, Ben. You'll be happy to know that your meticulous work will be only partially visible once the lower deck is in place and invisible after the upper deck is framed in (even if unplanked. But if you're of the mindset that every joint should be perfect (you obviously are) even if the detail will be hidden later on your model will be stunning.
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That's the launching cradle, Mike. It was affixed to the hull just prior to launching to keep it stable while slipping into the water. It also makes for a nice display!
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- hahn
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Sent you a PM. Greg
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Not exactly what you were looking for but, if the Queen were on board your vessel you might expect to see furniture such as this: http://www.shipmodell.com/index_files/0ROYAL_CAROLINE3.html I don't believe you'll see finer furnishings on any ship (or dollhouse) model than these!
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Like your approach, Mark. Less confusing than drawing several parallel lines on the pattern. I'm sure your projected planks lengths will be fine. I wonder about the joint surfaces mating correctly after bending. My recently spiled wale planks needed edge bevelling to sit properly at the bow. Will the upper surfaces of the plank joints spread apart while bending? I guess trial and error will tell. Wonder if Gary had any issues here?
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Sweet work, Mark. So, for those inner flat cuts are you simply drawing lines parallel to the cut line and aligning these with the mill vice jaws? I'll follow with interest as you proceed with your expanded illustrations at the bow!
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A model to be very proud of Mike! I'm sure your heirs are already plotting who gets it.
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And you're off, Chris! Pear is a fantastic wood to work with. It's not the worst idea to leave these crucial pieces slightly wider than spec while forming those difficult scarph joints. If the angle of your joint is off by a degree or two it will kick up or down the mating piece by a small amount. Leaving a little extra while mating the joints will give you a bit of leeway if this happens. Curious as to which spindle sander you've chosen. How about the scroll saw blade? The right blade makes all the difference.
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Beautiful work , Patrick. You must have spent hours turning those studded bolts. If you ever get tired of doing that you can purchase them from the following source. https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/products/simulated-hex-nut-brass-nickel-plated-05-mm-k099n. They carry lots of different sizes.
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Sweet work, Mike. A major advantage of scoring the rising wood for the floor timbers is apparent in your model at this stage. Each frame is positively indexed on the keel and there is no chance of cumulative error while assembling the frames. Wish I had done that on my Swan class model. It would have actually made the framing process a lot easier.
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Not sure what you're asking, Ian. The fitting out instructions are fully illustrated with scale patterns for the items required.
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You're off to a great start, Cliff. I think one of the great advantages of Ed's system is the ability to exert downward pressure within the hull (using an overhead gantry).
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Echo by davec - FINISHED - cross-section
dvm27 replied to davec's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looks excellent, Dave! -
Thanks, Chuck. All clear!
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I just found three of our 18' cutter plugs which we stopped selling years ago. They are resin cast and faint planking scores are indicated on one side. The most difficult part of building a plank on frame ships boat is making an accurate plug. This solves the problem for you. This 18' ships boat is clinker planked and full instructions are posted on our website http://www.admiraltymodels.com. Cost of the plugs are $50 plus $7 postage, US only please. If interested please send me an e-mail at dvm27@comcast.net. Only one per customer!
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