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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Chuck's incredible modeling skills aside, his wood choice does have a very pleasing scale appearance when viewed close up. Looks a lot like full scale pine to me. Certainly more realistic than boxwood in my opinion. I've been working on a project using the yellow cedar for the first time and had trouble achieving a finish similar to Chucks. He recommended using much finer sandpaper 280 - 400 grit and the results are much better.
  2. dvm27
    I do have a complete set of those Micro Shapers and find the profiles too large for most of the moldings I need at 1:48 scale.
  3. dvm27
    You mean you guys don't have the famous Rig Wright? It converts circumference to diameter and scale diameter in four different scales by rotating the dial.
  4. dvm27
    Great planking tutorial, Chuck. Of course, you could transfer those faired tick marks from your hull to the edge of the laser cut frames for the production run. One might introduce slight variations while raising the frames but overall it would be easy to adjust the spiled planks to these reference marks. But then you are providing the fish instead of teaching how to fish.
  5. dvm27
    For those wishing to purchase rivets and bolts of very small size check out https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/collections/small-parts-hardware/rivets. They purchased Scale Hardware when they went out of business and have an ibcredible varieth of micro fasteners.
  6. dvm27
    Hey, does that mean we can all visit your workshop, Remco? I'm less than 8 hours away (by jet).
  7. dvm27
    It’s been an absolute pleasure to watch your restoration of this model Michael!
  8. dvm27
    The launching structures are well described in Building the Wooden Fighting Ship by Dodds and Moore. Those are driver screws at the bow which apply force to get the keel in motion after the supports are knocked away. The cradle is removed after the ship is launched.
  9. dvm27
    Wonderful joinery. Looks like a terrific model in the making!
  10. dvm27
    If you look on page 280 of TFFM (forward elevation) the fore face has a top and bottom lip as well as quarter round molding. Perhaps it's different with just a tiller but it seems like it would prevent small objects from falling through the deck opening.
  11. dvm27
    Really nice job on those swivels, Toni! I also very much prefer the second version of your rudderhead cover. But is it missing the fore face under the tiller?
  12. dvm27
    That's a spectacular display, Albert, and reminiscent of many contemporary Navy Board displays. A silly question perhaps but are you somehow incorporating a glass case around your dockyard?
  13. dvm27
    Table III in David's Volume 4 of The Fully Framed Model lists all the blocks on the fore and main yards for a start. Then simply go through each page of the book and tabulate the rest. Give us the results and he'll be sure to credit you in the addendum to the Volume 4 reprint
  14. dvm27
    That California model is gorgeous, Michael. Thanks for the link. Something luxurious about all brass funnels with the red lining. That whole telegraph wire arrangement would scare the crap out of me if I were a passenger!
  15. dvm27
    Unfortunately, these cutter plugs are no longer available. But they are reusable so perhaps someone might wish to part with theirs.
  16. dvm27
    Nice videos, Kevin. You find some real winners on the internet.
  17. dvm27
    Quite a difference, Karl. It takes a lot of confidence to do the cut out at this point in the construction process. Well done!
  18. dvm27
    Glad to hear all is well with you Remco. Burnout is inevitable with a project like a Swan class model. Look forward to future updates of whatever.
  19. dvm27
    Your beaded edges are so lovely, Siggi. I assume you use some sorn of form/scraper tool?
  20. dvm27
    Having them laser cut certainly makes the job of making and installing them symmetrically much easier. She's looking terrific, Mike!
  21. dvm27
    Stunning work, as usual, Karl. I'm wondering how you managed to keep all the ballast in place. Dilute white glue?
  22. dvm27
    Thanks for the heads up. I've long admired Malcolm's work, such as https://julianstockwinblog.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/darchblog3-stern.jpg?
  23. dvm27
    Very nice job, Toni. I am currently using the three silver solder pastes available from Beaducation https://www.beaducation.com/pc/393-jewelry-making-tools-soldering-fusing-tools with three different melting points. Also, consider their set of soldering pics. They work very well. There are some excellent videos on silver soldering on this site. I also found that using Sparex or white vinegar/salt soln to etch the brass after silver soldering creates a more uniform blackening.
  24. dvm27
    I believe Dr. Mike is a cardiologist. Personally, I have switched to a heat gun to bend wood and find it superior and quicker to soaking and steaming.
  25. dvm27
    Dr. Mike is a gifted model maker but some of his techniques are a bit...unusual. For example, in video 78, minute 28:02, he is using a toaster to heat planks for bending. He retrieves them when ready with a curved surgical clamp. I'm quite certain I recall my mother telling me never to stick anything metallic into a plugged in toaster that's actually in the process of toasting but she sometimes was a worry wort. Perhaps Russian toasters are different than US toasters?

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