dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Well Kenny, Harold did not use power tools (except a lathe perhaps). He even cut out all his frames with a fret saw. So while power tools are nice you can certainly do excellent work without them or with brands that aren't quite Byrnes quality. -
Following Mike's point, you may also wish to consider building a jig to make sure all the frames are the correct height and orientation. On the jig add a keel stop at the bottom to fit the keel slot and two small stops above the toptimbers. On the glued up blank first cut and file the slot for the rabbet. Then trim the toptimbers to fit the top stops. Now that the glued up frame pieces fit the jig exactly, you can cut out the body of the frame and the maximum height of breadth (widest part across the hull) should line up perfectly on both sides of the hull. I would also leave 1/16" outside the line while cutting to allow for slight errors in raising the frames. Finally, if you can swing it, I would highly recommend the Byrnes disk sander to finish the outside of the frames and an oscillating spindle sander for the insides. It'll cut your frame making time in half.
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Just personal preference, Kenny, but I believe if you're going to take the time trouble to build a framed model you should leave some of it visible. I think Harold's method of leaving off the planking just below the wales is a good compromise. Otherwise, there are cheaper and faster methods of constructing a hull (plank on bulkhead, lift method, etc.). Or one could plank one whole side and leave the other side in frame. Only problem with this is displaying it to its best advantage.
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Druxey is certainly correct, Mark. I find that anguishing and deliberating over redoing a part takes more time than the actual repairs. My motto - when in doubt, rip it out! Of course that could explain why my models take so long to complete.
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Good luck with your Raleigh build, Kenny. I built two Hahn-style models before I switched to upright building. His methods may be a bit wasteful but it insures a fair, solid hull. Try to do as much construction and fairing of the hull as you can before separating it.
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For those of you who enjoy following Glenn's building log I'm sure you also miss his updates. Glenn's profession is actually building model ships (which should come as no surprise to anyone here) and he has been very busy trying to complete several projects and preparing for new ones. As much as he enjoys posting on this site, there literally are no enough hours in the day for him to do his job and keep us up to date on his progress. But he will return as soon as he gets caught up and wishes everyone the best. Perhaps it's not ideal when your hobby becomes your profession!
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If you are building ship's fittings yourself there are many parts that need to be mass produced (cannon brackets, knightheads, capstan etc.). Having two (or three!) saws with different setups makes this process much easier.
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You must be very organized to keep all the individual futtocks together with their neighbors. There must be over a thousand pieces. What if that box fell over...
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3 1/2 years!? Seems like yesterday you were just finishing up the Naiad frigate and pondering your next project. Time truly does accelerate the older you get. Bummed, but in great admiration of your masts and model in general.
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I just bought up their entire inventory so you're all out of luck! I'm hoping it will finance my retirement, Chuck.
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Lovely turning, Keith. It also looks just like those pedestal bases supplied by Model Shipways years ago (if the top were to be slotted for the keel).
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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
dvm27 replied to Erik W's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Sweet planking job, Erik. Looks like you'r right on those tic marks. -
Going to be a fantastic build Gaetan. Perhaps include a ruler every so often so we can appreciate how large this build actually is.
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Chuck, I followed your link and watched some casting techniques. I found it fascinating that you can spray paint the mold before casting and the color will impart perfectly to the copy. Suspect it wouldn't work with gold leaf but iron objects like cannons, stove parts, etc could come out blackened and ready for use.
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Actually, I think they're all pretty much amazing. I still don't completely understand the process Montanes used to construct this model but I'm just happy to look at the results.
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Congratulations on the completion of a simple looking but actually quite complex model and presentation, Ken. Look forward to your future builds here on MSW!
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Silly question perhaps Nils, but why were the funnels cast aft by several degrees instead of being truely vertical?
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Aren't the individual timbers comprising each frame laser cut into large billets of boxwood? I believe this is how the kit was designed.
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That's a lot of holes for rigging, Ed. I was amazed (reading Longridge's book) that Cutty Sark was rigged in three weeks. Might take you a hair longer I suspect.
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Looks terrific, Toni. With the tiller you still have the option of installing a small binnacle aft of the mast if you like. The 1:96 scale Atalanta model is one of my favorites!
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We should make your log mandatory viewing for anyone who purchases our plans Kevin. Your videos have been a joy to watch and I hope you continue them. I really chuckle when I see you building in shorts, barefoot and hear rain in the background. Makes me want to hop on a plane...
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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
dvm27 replied to Erik W's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Great job on the planking Erik. Is there some magic in this kit designed by Chuck? Every one I've seen is exceptional. I'm thinking of buying one for my seven year old grandson as clearly it's foolproof.
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