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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Glad to hear all is well with you Remco. Burnout is inevitable with a project like a Swan class model. Look forward to future updates of whatever.
  2. dvm27
    Your beaded edges are so lovely, Siggi. I assume you use some sorn of form/scraper tool?
  3. dvm27
    Having them laser cut certainly makes the job of making and installing them symmetrically much easier. She's looking terrific, Mike!
  4. dvm27
    Stunning work, as usual, Karl. I'm wondering how you managed to keep all the ballast in place. Dilute white glue?
  5. dvm27
    Thanks for the heads up. I've long admired Malcolm's work, such as https://julianstockwinblog.files.wordpress.com/2017/10/darchblog3-stern.jpg?
  6. dvm27
    Very nice job, Toni. I am currently using the three silver solder pastes available from Beaducation https://www.beaducation.com/pc/393-jewelry-making-tools-soldering-fusing-tools with three different melting points. Also, consider their set of soldering pics. They work very well. There are some excellent videos on silver soldering on this site. I also found that using Sparex or white vinegar/salt soln to etch the brass after silver soldering creates a more uniform blackening.
  7. dvm27
    I believe Dr. Mike is a cardiologist. Personally, I have switched to a heat gun to bend wood and find it superior and quicker to soaking and steaming.
  8. dvm27
    Dr. Mike is a gifted model maker but some of his techniques are a bit...unusual. For example, in video 78, minute 28:02, he is using a toaster to heat planks for bending. He retrieves them when ready with a curved surgical clamp. I'm quite certain I recall my mother telling me never to stick anything metallic into a plugged in toaster that's actually in the process of toasting but she sometimes was a worry wort. Perhaps Russian toasters are different than US toasters?
  9. dvm27
    Gold standard, Marsalv! Will this model grace your home or a museum?
  10. dvm27
    Great looking diorama, Bob!
  11. dvm27
    Those carvings are beautifully executed, Jeronimo. Equally, your painting within the panels in black is superbly done and sets them off nicely.
  12. dvm27
    There's nothing to justify, Ian. Your model is beautiful and we'd all love to follow your progress just as we do the many Swan or other builds.
  13. dvm27
    I have see illustrations with the cannon turned sideways and lashed fore and aft to the bulwark. This would seem to provide more stability in a rolling sea but I can't provide a reference offhand.
  14. dvm27
    I think it's very hard to add convincing looking sails to a fully rigged model. But you certainly make it look easy Marsalv. they look just right with the back lighting.
  15. dvm27
    Looking good, Charlie. I suppose it's nice to have the increased surface area provided by a solid hull but I think a plank on frame hull is easier to do!
  16. dvm27
    Your dad still has mad skills, as shown by his work on the parrels Barbara. Are you a ship model maker also? If not, it's even more impressive that you are directing the construction of such a complicated model.
  17. dvm27
    If I had a ship that beautiful I would never let it leave the harbor. Imagine what one cannon ball could do to those delicate structures!
  18. dvm27
    Congratulations on completing a very difficult area, Toni. It looks wonderful!
  19. dvm27
    The cast frames look terrific, Chuck! Those wishing to add treenails to their cross section may find it easier to do before the frames are raised.
  20. dvm27
    Very well written and illustrated, Chuck! Your a la carte method of building provides plenty of choices for builders.
  21. dvm27
    Lovely work as ever, Amalio. I am very impressed that you've preplaced all those hanging knees prior to the deck beam installation and all appear to be at the proper height and angle.
  22. dvm27
    Answered by PM
  23. dvm27
    Very nice work Jason. I like the spirketting and coaming colors, I find that automotive black spray primer followed by sprayed black does a nice job of simulating iron. The key is to apply several light coats so no detail is obscured.
  24. dvm27
    I've recently switched to Birchwood Casey Brass Black as I find it easier and more consistent than the Jax blackener. I also use 320 grit sandpaper on the brass (or before I form rings and other small items). Soak the piece in alcohol first (or vinegar) to degrease. The B.C. solution is applied with a small brush and only takes 10-15 seconds to work. Rinse in water then see if you want the piece darker. If so just repeat the above process. I also do not solder my rings but do file the ends after forming the circle. This makes a neat joint. I can't imagine why you would need to solder the breeching rings unless your cannon was actually going to fire! And I now use only silver soldering paste. It is self fluxing and flows beautifully, Check out https://www.beaducation.com/pc/393-jewelry-making-tools-soldering-fusing-tools. Also, look at the videos on silver soldering and other jewelry work. they're terrific. And remember - you need a tight joint for silver solder to flow.
  25. dvm27
    Excellent redo, Toni!

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