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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    True that, Danny. Most of the features on the platforms and lower deck are not visible in our finished models. How cool would it be to show the photo below and say "this is what my magazine looks like"?
  2. dvm27
    Yes, Denis's work is amazing. You should see the high resolution photos. I honestly can't tell his work from mine (well, actually I can...his work is flawless). David and I will absolutely be releasing these photos, which follow our books chapter by chapter, when Denis is finished. The photos will be viewable on a PC in high resolution. Printing costs would be enormous so that's not an option. We wish to provide them, at a very reasonable price, to those who have purchased our Swan class plans over the years, sort of a parting gift from Admiralty Models for all your support over the years.
  3. dvm27
    Denis has been busy building our 3D Swan class ship. It's very exciting when it all comes together, for example the aft platform view below from the main deck (photo below). When paired with The Fully Framed Model series of books I don't believe there will be another more thoroughly researched and illustrated ship model reference available.
  4. dvm27
    That's exquisite work, Mike! If it weren't for the grain it would be hard to tell the bollard and hawse timbers were from several pieces. I also use just two machinists squares when setting the frames. Much easier to reference the maximum height of breadth from the building board.
  5. dvm27
    On a Swan class ship, for example, the galley cowl could be rotated and the baffle closed in a downpour. I suspect it could also be removed and covered by a hatch or canvas in a heavy storm.
  6. dvm27
    Looks wonderful, Ben. Now get those fillers in and brace them before you snap them off with an errant elbow strike like Toni and I did!
  7. dvm27
    As many sizes of rings are frequently required you can also make your own by winding 24 or 28 gage brass wire around the appropriate sized drill bit. After winding and making sure the ends are taut you can cut them straight down the middle with a very fine fret saw blades. Ends need to be sqared up before soldering using a file.
  8. dvm27
    Merveilleux, Patrick!
  9. dvm27
    Dan, there is a guy on Overhaulin who does beautiful pinstriping by hand - no taping off or other guides. Just hire him.
  10. dvm27
    I use the 180 grit for everything. Your can remove as much (towards the end) or as little (towards the center) as you need with a smooth finish. If you need 80 grit you probably should be cutting your wood to closer tolerances before this point. Changing the paper is relatively easy but does take some time and a lot of mineral spirits.
  11. dvm27
    Those bitts look fantastic, Jason. Definitely worth the extra effort.
  12. dvm27
    Bienvenue, Mark. From browsing websites all over the world it is apparent there are many extraordinary ship model makers whose work we have never seen. Happily, several of them seem to have discovered Model Ship World recently and we are very pleased to view your work. I especially appreciate the meticulous lining out of your hull. It takes a very brave builder to take on a model with such exquisite carvings!
  13. dvm27
    Those look very nice, Cliff. Does he include instructions for cleaning off the excess and polishing?
  14. dvm27
    Lovely work, Michel. Even more impressive is the fact that the blank is just one piece. I seem to recall M. Frolich built his up of several pieces (perhaps to insure the best wood grain orientation).
  15. dvm27
    Looking forward to this build, Ken! Are you modeling her with or without the shipping containers? It's a completely different look with them.
  16. dvm27
    I'm so sorry about your setback, Karl! Most people wouldn't have the heart to jump right back in with a replacement build but you have certainly done so. In the medical profession we usually say "bad things come in threes". I like the German proverb better.
  17. dvm27
    An extraordinary Constitution build, Ken! I'm certain you grandkids will cherish it (at least until they are teenagers).
  18. dvm27
    Personally, I think it's easier to temporarily mount the completed frames, perhaps with small spacers glued between the toptimbers to lock them in place and a tack or two where they sit on the keel, mark off the sill locations, remove them and then cut the mortises with a chisel. I believe it's much cleaner to make these joints using a chisel with the frame on a flat surface then filing them in place and keeping them the mortises parallel athwartship.
  19. dvm27
    You could demonstrate your techniques step by step and very few of us would achieve results remotely close to your work Alexander. Either you have this gift or you don't!
  20. dvm27
    Your cannons and especially vent and touch holes are excellent! Do you have a CNC lathe? Perhaps a ground form tool?
  21. dvm27
    Love that PE work, Johann. Did you use all 18 weather vanes until you got one right or do you have 17 extras to sell? I'll have to research into British practice regarding lightning strikes.
  22. dvm27
    This is a beautifully executed carving Korablik (what is your name?)!
  23. dvm27
    So copper seems pretty amazing to work with, Ed. You just blacken everything in place with no prior prep like degreasing with alcohol or acetone? Does the liver of sulphur always work or do you have some failures as I do with brass from different manufacturers?
  24. dvm27
    Appreciate your using the palm of your hand to provide scale Keith. Makes those small blocks even more impressive!
  25. dvm27
    Those resin painted castings looks terrific Chuck. May I ask who makes those powders?

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