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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    I use the 180 grit for everything. Your can remove as much (towards the end) or as little (towards the center) as you need with a smooth finish. If you need 80 grit you probably should be cutting your wood to closer tolerances before this point. Changing the paper is relatively easy but does take some time and a lot of mineral spirits.
  2. dvm27
    Those bitts look fantastic, Jason. Definitely worth the extra effort.
  3. dvm27
    Bienvenue, Mark. From browsing websites all over the world it is apparent there are many extraordinary ship model makers whose work we have never seen. Happily, several of them seem to have discovered Model Ship World recently and we are very pleased to view your work. I especially appreciate the meticulous lining out of your hull. It takes a very brave builder to take on a model with such exquisite carvings!
  4. dvm27
    Those look very nice, Cliff. Does he include instructions for cleaning off the excess and polishing?
  5. dvm27
    Lovely work, Michel. Even more impressive is the fact that the blank is just one piece. I seem to recall M. Frolich built his up of several pieces (perhaps to insure the best wood grain orientation).
  6. dvm27
    Looking forward to this build, Ken! Are you modeling her with or without the shipping containers? It's a completely different look with them.
  7. dvm27
    I'm so sorry about your setback, Karl! Most people wouldn't have the heart to jump right back in with a replacement build but you have certainly done so. In the medical profession we usually say "bad things come in threes". I like the German proverb better.
  8. dvm27
    An extraordinary Constitution build, Ken! I'm certain you grandkids will cherish it (at least until they are teenagers).
  9. dvm27
    Personally, I think it's easier to temporarily mount the completed frames, perhaps with small spacers glued between the toptimbers to lock them in place and a tack or two where they sit on the keel, mark off the sill locations, remove them and then cut the mortises with a chisel. I believe it's much cleaner to make these joints using a chisel with the frame on a flat surface then filing them in place and keeping them the mortises parallel athwartship.
  10. dvm27
    You could demonstrate your techniques step by step and very few of us would achieve results remotely close to your work Alexander. Either you have this gift or you don't!
  11. dvm27
    Your cannons and especially vent and touch holes are excellent! Do you have a CNC lathe? Perhaps a ground form tool?
  12. dvm27
    Love that PE work, Johann. Did you use all 18 weather vanes until you got one right or do you have 17 extras to sell? I'll have to research into British practice regarding lightning strikes.
  13. dvm27
    This is a beautifully executed carving Korablik (what is your name?)!
  14. dvm27
    So copper seems pretty amazing to work with, Ed. You just blacken everything in place with no prior prep like degreasing with alcohol or acetone? Does the liver of sulphur always work or do you have some failures as I do with brass from different manufacturers?
  15. dvm27
    Appreciate your using the palm of your hand to provide scale Keith. Makes those small blocks even more impressive!
  16. dvm27
    Those resin painted castings looks terrific Chuck. May I ask who makes those powders?
  17. dvm27
    Well done Chris. Your model came out beautifully. Any thoughts on your next project? The twins must be no work at all at this age, allowing unlimited shop time : -)
  18. dvm27
    It appears that our French and Italian building friends construct those difficult hawse and counter timber assemblies off the models. This certainly seems like a simpler (and probably more accurate) method then building in place. Lovely work Matiz.
  19. dvm27
    Talk about a bluff bow! Nice job Maury.
  20. dvm27
    Wow, Toni, phenomenal work on this very difficult area!
  21. dvm27
    Your quarterdeck detailng is spectacular, Marsalv. Keep those photos coming!
  22. dvm27
    Your building technique requires all the varying angles and surfaces fay perfectly into each other. Extraordinary work you are doing!
  23. dvm27
    I could tell you Wayne...but then I'd have to kill you! Seriously, our renderings are being done by a very talented individual in Europe. I have no idea what software or computer he uses and wouldn't understand even if he told me. But I honestly can't tell whether the photo below is his rendering or my model.
  24. dvm27
    I know what you mean, Danny. Remember that wicked sternpost and aft rabbet transition? David's illustrations were awesome but how helpful would these photos have been!
  25. dvm27
    Admiralty Models has been working with a very talented 3D computer modeler who is building us a Swan class ship model (Pegasus). Besides the exceptional quality of his work, I can see the enormous benefit of a 3D model in showing how all the various pieces fit together. As the model's construction closely follows the actual vessel, it's build may be viewed in sequential layers. Our builder is precisely following the four volume Fully Framed Ship Model series of books, bringing David Antscherl's seminal work to life. In the near future, we will be offering the fully framed and fitted out computer model to those in the process of building a Swan class model or are contemplating building one. Between the Swan books and computer images I believe we will have the most comprehensive instructions and photos available for building a fully framed ship model. Stay tuned!

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