dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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SaturnV, If I understand your question correctly you are referring to the bevel of the frames. In the bow, the fore edge of each frame needs to be shaped to fay into the aft edge of the next frame. I would recommend not pre-bevelling the frames unless you are very experienced. It is best to install all the frames first, then bevel with 80 grit sandpaper, gouges etc. Once properly bevelled the frames will have a smooth surface for the planking to land on. -
Alex, Are all the carvings cast as well? What about the rigols over the ports. They are quite nice.
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Extraordinary work, Alex! The craftsmanship of yourself and Dr Mike are among the best anywhere. Perhaps you could persuade him to post his latest work here also.
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Making small nails with round head
dvm27 replied to Aleksei Domanov's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Your workmanship is very Dr. Mike-like, Alexy, and I can't think of a better complement. Is that a butter knife, razor or what? -
Thanks for the link Alex!
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Christian, I can't locate plans for Wolf on the NMM site. Is that where your wife purchased them? Did you do the lovely illustration?
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HMS Druid by Krug - FINISHED - 1:48 - Hahn
dvm27 replied to kruginmi's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Very nice looking Druid, Mike. Are you working from Hahn's plans? She was my first plank on frame model and I have fond memories of building her. If you don't already have David Antscherl's Swan books you may wish to purchase them as they are both essentially sixth rates. -
Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
You are certainly set for the next installment, Maury. David and I will have to work faster! -
What a lovely illustration! Yes, my model was built at 1:48 scale (1/4" - 1'). Your choice of Wolf, a snow rigged sloop, is fortuitous. It's sister ship Cruiser was also snow rigged and the subject of Ron McCarthy's Building Plank on Frame Ship Models. The rigging in on his model is exceptionally well done and should help you immensely when the time comes. I also love the unusual parallel trysail mast behind the main mast.
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At 1:48 scale, from counter timbers to the knee of the head she's a very sweet 22". Just for laughs, I've attached a rejected Swan bow for comparison. It makes our little sloop of war look huge doesn't it? So far only box has been used but holly wales are next with Fiebings leather dye to blacken.
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Geoff - there are four 6-32 threaded bolts securing the model to the baseboard. Ben - we will be offering the plans just as soon as I finish her. She's make a nice follow-up to a Swan, Echo or Triton and is not nearly as large.
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Speedwell's framing has finally been completed. Note the various shifts and casts of the toptimbers as they frame the ports. There are many more of these on this vessel than on a Swan class ship and they can be challenging at times. My plan is to plank her from the ports up and rig her.
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Hold off on gluing them in place, Maury. There's still much work to be done below. Having the upper deck beams and beam arms ready to go will help guide the placement of the various elements of the lower deck when the time comes -
Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Spot on work, as usual, Maury! -
Looking terrific, Toni. Cabin bulkheads are very well done. Beautiful photo also! Two weeks earlier you would have run into me on the same trail.
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Beautiful job on your cross-section Rusty!
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Looking very good, Ben. You may wish to make them a little shallower, perhaps 2-3" at the deepest part. Or it might just be the camera perspective.
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We've had much discussion regarding sanding sealers and finishes that do not change the natural beauty of the wood. I had tried a water based sanding sealer but did not find it ideal (it was streaky). However, I am now using the Sig brand Thin-Cote butyrate and thinner and they are wonderful! I am diluting the butyrate by about 50-60% with the thinner. You brush it on and it dries very quickly with no streaks or color alterations (including holly). You can apply additional coats, although I'm finding one works fine. The Lite-Cote product is: http://www.sigmfg.com/IndexText/SIGLC001.html. The thinner may also be found on the Sig site. A word of caution - use in a well ventilated area! It is airplane dope and, while it smells wonderful, is certainly not ideal to inhale. Thanks to David Antscherl for turning me on to it. I use this when I want the rough hewn appearance of natural wood and Watcos Danish oil when I want a dressier finish.
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ancre LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
dvm27 replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I love your work, Karl. Your rider/planking joints are perfection!- 662 replies
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Here's a link to a wreck diorama built by a professional ship modeler. It's later than the ship you wish to model but may give you a couple of ideas. http://nautarch.tamu.edu/model/report5/dioramacomplete.htm Greg
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Excellent, Ben. You'll find the fairing quite rewarding. In just a couple of hours her final shape will emerge. Greg
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I was also a bit disappointed when I finished my Druid decking and it yellowed a bit. I've found that dilute sanding sealer is the only way to keep holly white. The model looks terrific.
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That's a lovely case, Ed. Perhaps I've missed it but have you decided on your next projec
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Congratulations on a beautiful model Chris. While there are many lovely features, I don't believe I've seen a better job coppering the hull. The copper belts, finish and scale look just right.
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You're the Henry Ford of ship modelers, Danny. Now I'm wondering why I didn't extend my jig to mass produce the carriages instead of assembling one at a time. Next time!
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