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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Very nice, Danny. Now all you need to do is make 39 others exactly like that one.
  2. dvm27
    I look forward to your build Rob. It's nice to see so many clipper projects happening. You must really like rigging!
  3. dvm27
    Just beautiful, Johann. I also love the pillared columns in the background.
  4. dvm27
    Do you wish to include scratch building projects with available wooden framing package ? You could include them in a separate category. Examples might include Admiralty Models Swan and Echo class ships as well as the Echo cross-section, Naiad, Triton​, etc.
  5. dvm27
    I love the caulking, Michael and the grain of the wood works very well at your scale. Is the glue just tinted carpenter's glue and have you done this before? Just wondering if the glue might shrink a bit over time.
  6. dvm27
    Beautiful lines, Ed. Can't wait to see her faired. Thanks also for the larger photos!
  7. dvm27
    Thanks for all your comments! Remco - There's no need to fix Fiebing's dye. It covers and penetrates beautifully and buffs to a nice finish. As a matter of fact, they recommend applying it to wet leather. Learner - I adapted my stove from Lavery's Arming and Fitting... It depicts an iron firehearth contemporary to Speedwell. Brodie stoves appeared decades later, c.1780. Here are a couple photos of the strove during construction. All brass parts were constructed over shaped plugs of holly and glued with J&B Weldbond. This creates a very strong bond and fills the joints which can then be sanded. The finish is automotive gray primer followed by automotive black. Mark - trunnels are drilled and applied after the wales are in place. They are easily touched up using the dye on a q-tip. Kind of a wasted exercise though as they become invisible. Speedwell is a nice little project at 1:48. She'll fit easily on my one remaining shelf.
  8. dvm27
    It's been a few months since I've posted an update to my build log of Speedwell. All four platforms are now in place, as are the shot locker and galley stove. Besides the wales, there will be very little external planking in order not to cover those wacky, fun to make shifted and cast toptimbers. The single wale was made of holly and stained with Fiebings black leather dye (off the model). The two completed fore platforms The very small shot lockers accommodate the three pound cannon balls The very small shot lockers accommodate the three pound cannon balls The galley stove was made of brass over a holly plug
  9. dvm27
    Splendid work, Ed. There's even a precision to the bolting pattern. Is it possible to take higher resolution photos? In many logs, when clicking on the photo a much larger version pops up. Yours is essentially 1:1.
  10. dvm27
    A fantastic little detail, Remco! I had forgotten I had done this on my main deck gratings and sure enough, they were there. I believe I'm the only person who ever noticed this detail on my model...and promptly forgot about it. I also notice how perfect your gratings and battens fit the coamings and head ledges. Coincidence, or did you build them around the finished gratings?
  11. dvm27
    Well done, Toni. I cut those mortises on my table saw but your results with a no.11 blade look equally good.
  12. dvm27
    I do so admire your commitmant to accuracy Ed. I've only seen one other model with the scores mortised in and, of course, you can't tell once the cants are installed. http://nautarch.tamu.edu/model/report3/inprogress.htm
  13. dvm27
    I read somewhere that you can just wash the residue off but I'm sure someone has tried that. Perhaps the implication was just wash off as much residue as possible before gluing. The other problem with laser cutting is that the cut is not always perpendicular. The thicker the piece, the more exagerated this is. Did you note a larger gap on one side vs the other Jay? Dave Stevens, of the LumberYard, addresses these issues on his website http://www.dlumberyard.com/oneida-laser.html
  14. dvm27
    Brilliant milling work, Mark. The Starrett wiggler would have saved me hours of fine tuning on my last project and I shall now get one. Love those perfect carling mortises also.
  15. dvm27
    It's such a pleasure to watch a craftsman challenge himself and then see the results. You're in rarefied air Mr. Mott!
  16. dvm27
    Great job on a nerve wracking process, Ed. Failure is definitely not an option here!
  17. dvm27
    I commiserate with you Mij. I decided to discard my first fully framed Swan model after one year because I was not happy with the quality of my earlier work. I rebuilt it in less than half the time and the results were definitely worth it. For some people the finished model is the destination, for others it's the journey that matters most.
  18. dvm27
    So sorry for your loss, Andy. Some of my earliest memories revolve around the time spent in my Grandfather's workshop, watching him build furniture. I'm sure my love of woodworking stemmed from these early years. It sounds like you were very close to yours also. May you have fond memories of time spent with him. Greg
  19. dvm27
    Very nice job on those crossed loding knees, Remco! I love your little pin holders.
  20. dvm27
    Here's my technique, Antony. It's very simple.
  21. dvm27
    Wonderful job on the cross-section, Ben. But you don't have to be finished. We have posted several updates on our website to fit her out if you're so inclined.
  22. dvm27
    Stunning work as always, Karl. What adhesive did you use to bind the ballast and cannon balls together?
  23. dvm27
    Is there any more complex part of the ship to model than the transom and quarter galleries with all those compound angles? Keep those wonderful photos coming Gaetan.
  24. dvm27
    You, Sir, are a fine modeler!
  25. dvm27
    What a beautiful model of a beautiful ship, Bruce!

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