dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Spot on work, as usual, Maury! -
Looking terrific, Toni. Cabin bulkheads are very well done. Beautiful photo also! Two weeks earlier you would have run into me on the same trail.
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Beautiful job on your cross-section Rusty!
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Looking very good, Ben. You may wish to make them a little shallower, perhaps 2-3" at the deepest part. Or it might just be the camera perspective.
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We've had much discussion regarding sanding sealers and finishes that do not change the natural beauty of the wood. I had tried a water based sanding sealer but did not find it ideal (it was streaky). However, I am now using the Sig brand Thin-Cote butyrate and thinner and they are wonderful! I am diluting the butyrate by about 50-60% with the thinner. You brush it on and it dries very quickly with no streaks or color alterations (including holly). You can apply additional coats, although I'm finding one works fine. The Lite-Cote product is: http://www.sigmfg.com/IndexText/SIGLC001.html. The thinner may also be found on the Sig site. A word of caution - use in a well ventilated area! It is airplane dope and, while it smells wonderful, is certainly not ideal to inhale. Thanks to David Antscherl for turning me on to it. I use this when I want the rough hewn appearance of natural wood and Watcos Danish oil when I want a dressier finish.
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ancre LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
dvm27 replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I love your work, Karl. Your rider/planking joints are perfection!- 662 replies
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- bonhomme richard
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Here's a link to a wreck diorama built by a professional ship modeler. It's later than the ship you wish to model but may give you a couple of ideas. http://nautarch.tamu.edu/model/report5/dioramacomplete.htm Greg
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Excellent, Ben. You'll find the fairing quite rewarding. In just a couple of hours her final shape will emerge. Greg
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I was also a bit disappointed when I finished my Druid decking and it yellowed a bit. I've found that dilute sanding sealer is the only way to keep holly white. The model looks terrific.
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That's a lovely case, Ed. Perhaps I've missed it but have you decided on your next projec
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Congratulations on a beautiful model Chris. While there are many lovely features, I don't believe I've seen a better job coppering the hull. The copper belts, finish and scale look just right.
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You're the Henry Ford of ship modelers, Danny. Now I'm wondering why I didn't extend my jig to mass produce the carriages instead of assembling one at a time. Next time!
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Your mast step, like everything else on your model, is a prefect little mini-model within itself. I very much enjoy your wood palette.
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Mike, She's looking terrific. You must be counting the days until you can free her from her jig. A very Happy 65th birthday to you!
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Lovely cannons, Dan. I notice he leaves on the casting vents. How difficult were they to grind and blacken?
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The treenails look very good, Toni. Great job on those nibbed margin strakes also!
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
dvm27 replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
For some reason I missed your post, Bob. Best wishes for a speedy recovery! -
Well done, Ben! And don't feel bad - properly done treenails should be almost invisible.
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ancre Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
dvm27 replied to rekon54's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
It doesn't get any better than this! Are the scuppers one continuous tube or did you insert shorter tubes from each end? -
Really extraordinary work, Michael!
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Treenails on a ship this size were between 3/4" and 1 1/4" in diameter so something around .020" would be fine. That would be roughly a no.76 drill bit or the third smallest hole on the Byrnes draw plate. You can dip the treenail in dilute white glue and insert it immediately as it tends to swells up or insert, cut then paint over the treenails with dilute white glue (my preference) Treenails should be barely visible. I'd also advise testing on a scrap piece with the finish you'll be using to see the effect of the finish on the treenail grain. Greg
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Excellent job planking! Very authentic.
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Echo by jml1083 - cross-section
dvm27 replied to jml1083's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Don't be afraid to start with 80 grit sandpaper and make flexible sanding strips as Druxey has recommended. You'll actually feel as well as hear when you have completed fairing a section. -
Echo by jml1083 - cross-section
dvm27 replied to jml1083's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Well done, Jim. Keep that center line straight and all will fair up easily later on. -
Ben, sorry about the delay in answering. I just returned from a cruise on the largest cruise ship in the world, Oasis of the Seas. If you have the Byrnes disc sander, doing the chocks is easy. First, I trace place the glued up futtocks carefully over the blank and trace the shape. Next I cut very closely to the outside lines with my scroll saw. Finally, the edges are dressed to final shape by lightly feeding them against the Byrnes disk sander. I use a small sacrificial ply scrap underneath the chock and push it against the sanding disk with my finger. Keep offering it up to the frames and refine until it's a press fit. Make sure the chock is as thick as the lower futtock, as they are stepped!
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