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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    For some reason I missed your post, Bob. Best wishes for a speedy recovery!
  2. dvm27
    Well done, Ben! And don't feel bad - properly done treenails should be almost invisible.
  3. dvm27
    It doesn't get any better than this! Are the scuppers one continuous tube or did you insert shorter tubes from each end?
  4. dvm27
    Really extraordinary work, Michael!
  5. dvm27
    Treenails on a ship this size were between 3/4" and 1 1/4" in diameter so something around .020" would be fine. That would be roughly a no.76 drill bit or the third smallest hole on the Byrnes draw plate. You can dip the treenail in dilute white glue and insert it immediately as it tends to swells up or insert, cut then paint over the treenails with dilute white glue (my preference) Treenails should be barely visible. I'd also advise testing on a scrap piece with the finish you'll be using to see the effect of the finish on the treenail grain. Greg
  6. dvm27
    Excellent job planking! Very authentic.
  7. dvm27
    Don't be afraid to start with 80 grit sandpaper and make flexible sanding strips as Druxey has recommended. You'll actually feel as well as hear when you have completed fairing a section.
  8. dvm27
    Well done, Jim. Keep that center line straight and all will fair up easily later on.
  9. dvm27
    Ben, sorry about the delay in answering. I just returned from a cruise on the largest cruise ship in the world, Oasis of the Seas. If you have the Byrnes disc sander, doing the chocks is easy. First, I trace place the glued up futtocks carefully over the blank and trace the shape. Next I cut very closely to the outside lines with my scroll saw. Finally, the edges are dressed to final shape by lightly feeding them against the Byrnes disk sander. I use a small sacrificial ply scrap underneath the chock and push it against the sanding disk with my finger. Keep offering it up to the frames and refine until it's a press fit. Make sure the chock is as thick as the lower futtock, as they are stepped!
  10. dvm27
    This is an admirable attempt to create the waterline with planks of differing wood species. I've only seen it done by very experienced modelers before (Hahn, Frolich for ex.).
  11. dvm27
    You can also put it on the watch list on Amazon.com. They will be selling it.
  12. dvm27
    I also create those sheave slots by laminating. I find that cutting the slot fillers from the same piece of stock and orientating the grain to match, hides the seams nicely.
  13. dvm27
    Outstanding!
  14. dvm27
    Contemporary photos of a NMM model I'm currently working on, HMS Speedwell, clearly show the fashion piece as Druxey has modelled it. I am currently working on this area and am constructing the fashion piece in two different sections, in effect building out the rebate . The end result will resemble Druxey's model but without the difficult task of creating the double rebates fore and aft. Very few navy board models were accurately framed and I suspect the square tuck work around was yet another convention to make the model builder's life easier. I certainly agree overlapping the transom planks with the side planking would be a heck of a lot easier! Just to reference a point Chuck brought up regarding Harold Hahn. Harold was an amazing ship modeler, a pioneer who influenced modern scratch building probably more than anyone else of his generation. But he freely stated that many of the choices he made with regards to construction were conventions to suite his own taste and did not always represent full size building practice. Some have criticized him for this but he never tried to pass off his work as 100% authentic. When I built my first Hahn-style model I thought I was building a replica of the original. I was, in fact, building a replica of a Harold Hahn model. There's no way I was ready to build a fully framed model at that time and I'll forever be greatful to Harold for introducing me to scratch building.
  15. dvm27
    Microscope slides can be a bit thick. Microscope cover slips are more to scale but they are the devil to dimension. Some people grind them to their final size. Conventional glass cutters are not successful in my hands for these.
  16. dvm27
    I'm very much enjoying your build Giorgos!
  17. dvm27
    I'll second whatever Giovanni wrote above. Everything in Italian sounds nice.
  18. dvm27
    Beautiful, Toni!
  19. dvm27
    Wonderful. Karl. I love the way you've included all the foremast spars and such. Did you ever discuss your finish? It looks very natural.
  20. dvm27
    The bulkhead looks excellent, Danny!
  21. dvm27
    Beautiful work, Bob, especially that cast toptimber.
  22. dvm27
    Well done well, Maury!
  23. dvm27
    Awesome work, Pat. So those cannons were computer printed versions? They look amazing.
  24. dvm27
    Something along these lines, MAury.
  25. dvm27
    In memory of the late, great Roger Ebert I give your movie and ship's boat two thumbs up! Greg

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