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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    Nice fix, Toni, and a very nice forrest of pumps. I too found those hexagonal openings difficult to get exactly right and actually cut the pump tubes to fit over and under the partners with an alignment pin drilled through to keep them properly oriented.
  2. dvm27
    Perplexing, is it not Mark? I would certainly trust Ed's research but I I have read this is precisely the case. As I recall, each beam progressing aft has a slightly smaller round up as they approach the transom. I don't recall if this is the case in the fore section. I'm sure others can provide a more definitive answer with source references. I suppose one could place 5" round up beams aft then fay the others to a batten connected to the 8 1/2" beam fore. But I suspect you'll develop a table of offsets and do this more scientifically. Gary...Druxey...?
  3. dvm27
    Looking good, Remco! I made a very convincing brick hearth for Druid some time ago but it is hidden in the bows of the model. Long lengths of 2 1/2" x 4 1/2" stock were prepared with vertical "mortar joints" slit in every 8". These lengths were offset and laminated over slightly inset 1" fillers to represent the mortar in between layers. After assembly, the hearth was painted with antique white (making sure to get into all the mortar joints), followed by dry brushing the surface with a brick red color. It's more of an assembly line approach but it worked well for me. I've no doubt, however, that your's will look amazing whatever technique you use.
  4. dvm27
    Great start, Ben. It's all a cakewalk from here on.
  5. dvm27
    Damn, Mark, I recognize that Preac blade elevating screw. Never thought of using it elsewhere. I'll definitely be using that one in the future.
  6. dvm27
    If I was a teeny tiny person I'd want to live in your ship!
  7. dvm27
    I used to feel the same way about painting only with wood, Alexandr. But, in looking at many Navy Board models, I see some were done precisely as Mark is doing and the overall effect is very pleasing. Getting the right shade and texture of red seems problematic but Mark and Druxey have it just right. As you say, it is a matter of taste, and mine has changed a bit recently.
  8. dvm27
    Magnificent work, Mark! Your carling runs fore to aft are perfect. Happy New Year.
  9. dvm27
    Bravo!
  10. dvm27
    Stunning work, Doris! Best of health and ignore those who question your model making - they're obviously jealous. Greg
  11. dvm27
    Looks wonderful, Gary. Look forward to your 2014 updates. Happy Holidays! Greg
  12. dvm27
    Good luck with your project. For inspiration you may wish to check out the build by Narim on the Russian Ship Model forum. His build will either inspire you or cause you to give up ship modeling! http://forum.modelsworld.ru/topic8068.html
  13. dvm27
    Great job, Rusty. Now could you come and clean my shop so I can work on my model this weekend?
  14. dvm27
    I agree with your refit Michael. The lines of the narrower cockpit flow beautifully into the cabin structure.
  15. dvm27
    At least you have Chuck's beautiful sculptures to fall back on. It's hard to imagine any kit produced chunk of metal complementing your skillfully done model.
  16. dvm27
    Lovely work, as usual, Rusty. Any spring back in those main hatches after unclamping?
  17. dvm27
    So true Michael. I love looking at old scales and scientific instruments such as Horace Harrison's maritime clocks. Sheer genius.
  18. dvm27
    Congratulations on completing this important milestone, Remco! She's beautiful.
  19. dvm27
    Very nice, Danny. Now all you need to do is make 39 others exactly like that one.
  20. dvm27
    I look forward to your build Rob. It's nice to see so many clipper projects happening. You must really like rigging!
  21. dvm27
    Just beautiful, Johann. I also love the pillared columns in the background.
  22. dvm27
    Do you wish to include scratch building projects with available wooden framing package ? You could include them in a separate category. Examples might include Admiralty Models Swan and Echo class ships as well as the Echo cross-section, Naiad, Triton​, etc.
  23. dvm27
    I love the caulking, Michael and the grain of the wood works very well at your scale. Is the glue just tinted carpenter's glue and have you done this before? Just wondering if the glue might shrink a bit over time.
  24. dvm27
    Beautiful lines, Ed. Can't wait to see her faired. Thanks also for the larger photos!
  25. dvm27
    Thanks for all your comments! Remco - There's no need to fix Fiebing's dye. It covers and penetrates beautifully and buffs to a nice finish. As a matter of fact, they recommend applying it to wet leather. Learner - I adapted my stove from Lavery's Arming and Fitting... It depicts an iron firehearth contemporary to Speedwell. Brodie stoves appeared decades later, c.1780. Here are a couple photos of the strove during construction. All brass parts were constructed over shaped plugs of holly and glued with J&B Weldbond. This creates a very strong bond and fills the joints which can then be sanded. The finish is automotive gray primer followed by automotive black. Mark - trunnels are drilled and applied after the wales are in place. They are easily touched up using the dye on a q-tip. Kind of a wasted exercise though as they become invisible. Speedwell is a nice little project at 1:48. She'll fit easily on my one remaining shelf.

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