dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Masterful work, Gaetan, especialy all those narrow rebates.- 728 replies
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- le fleuron
- 64 gun
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ROYAL CAROLINE 1749 by Doris - 1:40 - CARD
dvm27 replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Magical, Doris! Beautifully proportioned belaying pins as well.- 883 replies
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- royal caroline
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Very informative text and beautiful work, as always. Your next to the last photo made me cringe just a bit though. Notice the position of your sweater relative to the stern timbers. I once took out a counter timber and associated fillers with my long sleeve shirt. That's why I only wear short sleeves in my workshop, no matter how cold it is!
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- young america
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Like Druxey, my first plank on frame model was scrapped after a year because it was not up to spec. Your second version will no doubt be built on a better foundation and I guarantee you won't regret starting over.
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Just five years? You're obviously on the accelerated program!
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
They should indeed line up. Maury. The bottom of the cheek block should be 3" above the beam and would sit directly onto the 3" deck planking. Perhaps you placed the sheaves for the main brace bit pins too low? -
Spending all the time to properly frame a model in an historically correct manner and then covering it up seems like a crime. There are may strategies to show framing or areas of framing.
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Brilliant work, Ed. The time taken to make and install your jig really shows up well here. I can't imagine raising those timbers without it.
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Lovely work, Danny. Is the other side left in frame (I forget)? Then you don't have to repeat this difficult task.
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Very nice Maury. The bits are an excellent exercise in planning, machining and hand finishing. A lot of though goes into the sequence of construction. -
Great start, Christian. Perhaps you are referring to the model by Roger Cole featured at http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Cole.htm. There's a very nice PDF file of his building process on that page.
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You're a wonder, Remco! That fire hearth fooled everyone in my family who thought it was full size.
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I was thinking the same thing as Druxey, Ed. I've had tear outs even when being especially cautious. You make it look easy!
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- young america
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You've created a beautiful model Elmir. Well done!
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Thanks Mike. That was the problem. You may wish to post this in a general discussion so others may see it (if not already there).
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Wonderful, Gary! Is everything silver soldered or did you use an adhesive?
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Echo by Maury S - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to Maury S's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Very sweet work, Maury -
Gary - I tried to send you a PM but the error message says you cannot receive PMs. Send me an e-mail at dvm27@comcast.net. Greg
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I agree, Mike. I used to live in the Philippines and ship models were amonth their exports. Unfortunately, the "craftsmen" who made them were paid extremely poorly and were exploited just like workers in other third world countries. Stil...it did put food on their table.
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I can't remember what I had for breakfast but I do remember obscure references for some reason, Mark. Unfortunately, a search of the usual sources failed to turn up the reference to back up my statement. It might have been in one of the hundreds of journals in my basement. Or, the author could have been mistaken. It'll turn up, no doubt, five minutes after you've completed the beams.
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Nice fix, Toni, and a very nice forrest of pumps. I too found those hexagonal openings difficult to get exactly right and actually cut the pump tubes to fit over and under the partners with an alignment pin drilled through to keep them properly oriented.
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Perplexing, is it not Mark? I would certainly trust Ed's research but I I have read this is precisely the case. As I recall, each beam progressing aft has a slightly smaller round up as they approach the transom. I don't recall if this is the case in the fore section. I'm sure others can provide a more definitive answer with source references. I suppose one could place 5" round up beams aft then fay the others to a batten connected to the 8 1/2" beam fore. But I suspect you'll develop a table of offsets and do this more scientifically. Gary...Druxey...?
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Looking good, Remco! I made a very convincing brick hearth for Druid some time ago but it is hidden in the bows of the model. Long lengths of 2 1/2" x 4 1/2" stock were prepared with vertical "mortar joints" slit in every 8". These lengths were offset and laminated over slightly inset 1" fillers to represent the mortar in between layers. After assembly, the hearth was painted with antique white (making sure to get into all the mortar joints), followed by dry brushing the surface with a brick red color. It's more of an assembly line approach but it worked well for me. I've no doubt, however, that your's will look amazing whatever technique you use.
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- sloop
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Damn, Mark, I recognize that Preac blade elevating screw. Never thought of using it elsewhere. I'll definitely be using that one in the future.
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