dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Beautiful work Matthias! It must have anguished you to have to cut the upper scrollwork and stem to fit the figurehead but it is invisible now. Is that just a quirk of your models or did others need to do the same? -
Make sure to seek accommodations in a hotel with the glass champagne bed (pink, of course). Every newlyweds dream!
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Ah...who among us can ever forget the joy of Testors tube cement? The 24 hour bonding period, smudged canopies, glue everywhere... the intoxicating fumes!
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- Thermopylae
- Revell
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It's clear from your log that you can rig almost everything on the yard before installing it. I found it exceedingly difficult to rig the truss pendants after the yards were installed. The next ship I rig will be done using many of your techniques!
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With so many commercial CNC brass cannons available now I give you full credit for making a set of your own!
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By my calculations you have rigged your magnificent model in less than a year. The speed and accuracy with which you work is inspiring (and intimidating)! Do you spend a full day in the workshop or is this just part time for you?
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- le gros ventre
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In most of my Ancre books someone has already built the model and it is featured in color. Is this the case with L'Invention or will your model be the first?
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Very nice work Glen! And I agree that The Art of Boat Building and Tally Ho should be required viewing for all model shipwrights.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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That's some of the best joinery I've seen Mark! In the close-ups you don't even highlight the beautiful scarph joints on the clamps.
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I have several hi-def photos of the NMM model and they don't appear to have the port stops. Or if present they are only an inch wide. So either way is probably fine. Beautiful planking job.
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Gorgeous work Gianpierco!
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Eyebolts are simple to make but well shaped hooks are not easy, especially the tapered tips. The PE ones I have are one-dimensional and not very realistic looking. If anyone can make them it would be Chuck!
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"Excuse the crude mockup", with over 100 perfectly placed holes for trennels and proper shift of plank butts.
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That's a very interesting method of making gudgeons. Any problems where those corners meet? Seems like there's very little brass under the solder.
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A simple "like" won't do here Rusty. Congratulations on the completion of your exceptional build. I'd hardly call this a "kit" model but your choices in wood and finishes makes it unique.
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Next NRG Conference
dvm27 replied to YankeeClipper's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
I agree with Roger with regards to a regular NRG meeting in Mystic (or Newport News or Annapolis). But to be fair I would think it could alternated with a West Coast NRG meeting. If memory serves me well all the largest NRG meetings I've attended have been on either coast. Perhaps not fair to our interior members but we need to attract as many members as possible to our annual meeting. -
I think this would be a simple detail to add. After all don't most kits require shaping the mid/keel section to a bearding line? But the problem I foresee is that the tapering goes across the part of the stem where the figurehead sits and any reduction of this area would lead to a loose fit of the figurehead.
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I do it mostly side to side. This keeps both sides parallel athwartships and prevents gouging on one side. It is essential that the tops of the frames are parallel or the plankshears (top rails) will cant in or out. Until I get very close to final dimension I usually pin one side of the sanding stick with my thumb and swivel sand the opposite side over a couple of inches. Then repeat in reverse. Sneak up to the line with 120 grit then finish with 180 grit. You'll notice that the char is gone on Chucks forecastle and QD toptimbers and this is a pretty good indication that it is fair.
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Congratulations Chuck on achieving this milestone! For fairing the toptimber line the sanding sticks are invaluable to insure the line is fair both at the top and athwartships. It's very hard to far the line when just working on one side at a time. I use 8 inch or so sanding sticks with 120 and 180 grit glued on and sand across the ship keeping a careful line on the toptimber line on each side as I go. I use much smaller widths near the hances.
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Look's terrific Mark. When you are fairing the deck if you add a little white glue into the joints those small gaps will disappear. I don't do a lot of full sized carpentry but I believe it's standard practice to cut the dovetail first then the recess for it. Much easier to trim the joint to receive the dovetail.
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And they're generally unrigged as well. Even then they knew what a pain in the **** it was to rig cannons. I also like the decorative red feature on the barrels of this model. Is this modelers fancy or were they painted n actual ships cannons as well?
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You've produced a beautiful hull, Chuck. For those nervous Nellies such as you and I it wouldn't hurt to add small spacer insets between the top of the frames with PVA. Once the hull is faired and a clamp added they can be removed with isopropyl alcohol.
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Had a similar problem until, after positioning as you have done, I painted them with a diluted white glue solution and placed a weight against the bottom, This holds the bent over lower part in position while the glue sets.
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- Cheerful
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No need to wait Allan. The Velcro has a sticky part which gets mounted to the visor and the clingy part which is adhered underneath the light. Light is perfectly centered and weighs next to nothing.
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