dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Absolute perfection Mike! I am really looking forward to your next project.- 607 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Did you caulk between the planks with paper or a marker? If so please use a sample caulked piece to see if the alcohol creates any bleeding of the black! Running a razor around the sides might create a horrendous slip. I'd slot out a center section of the plank using a drill bit then start using alcohol on the joints. I'm always amazed how easy it is to debond glue with gentle pressure and a few seconds of alcohol.
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Those blocks are called rack blocks and they are very challenging to make and install. Lovely work Siggi!
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As close to a fool proof method of cant framing as I've ever seen. Amazing, Chuck! The blade on my machinists square tapers to point on the fore edge. It's super accurate for transferring lines from the building board. It must have a special name but I can't find it on the internet. Perhaps a machinist will know what I'm describing.
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Do they still have that magnificent model of he Royal George on display?
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Visually it is the run of the sweep and port openings that make or break the hull and your template shows you are right on the money. I look forward to seeing how those difficult cant frames blend into your system. Were you going to add fillers between the keel and bottom floor sweep? I found that expansion and contraction of the hull was constantly fighting me on this.
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Wonderful ropework, Monsieur. Are those real splices on the stropped blocks?
- 589 replies
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- le gros ventre
- cargo
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Well that carving is certainly matches the quality of your work. Congratulations on owning an original Antscherl piece of art!
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Druxey is, as always, correct. Visually I found the angle looked a bit jarring on my cross section so made it just slightly off parallel to the keel.
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While I tend to build in a highly stylized manner I can certainly appreciate that your model probably comes closer to the actual ships appearance than any other model on this site. Truly inspirational!
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What works for me in these situations is to tack the two delicate pieces together or tack the assembly to a ply base using pinpoint drops of yellow glue. It only takes a couple of minute drops to tack the pieces together (like tack welding) and they are easily separated with isopropyl alcohol when finished.
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After all that tedious planking now you're getting to the fun stuff!
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Yes patience is key here...but dedication to excellence is equally required to achieve results such as these!
- 840 replies
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- 4
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
dvm27 replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Well done Stuglo! We watched your skill and confidence grow during the construction of this model and the result is someone that you should be very proud of. Look forward to your next build. -
Is this like lost wax casting where the original is destroyed or can you use the original for several castings?
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I have fond memories of making this model over 40 years ago. I believe it is sitting in my son's basement gathering cobwebs.
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I was wondering how you were going to finish those 3D figures in a realistic manner. Using them as masters for the wood colored resin makes perfect sense. 3D printing sure has come a long way. Is this kind of resolution possible on a home printer or is Chris's 3D printer some super commercial brand?
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Nice job Kevin. Preac makes a fence thats1/2" tall. If you can find one it makes cutting mortises a lot easier. Maybe an optical illusion but the first gunport (not the bridle port) looks a bit short.
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Unfortunately, you have "achieved perfection" so you'll just have to keep up that standard! What about adding a 1mm filler strip above the port side clamp? It would be invisible under the waterway.
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Planning ahead is key to success in this type of project. You may also need the quarterdeck and forecastle beams in some locations before fitting out the main deck. You may wish to place a thin piece of rope from the stem to the sternpost (see Chuck's last post) as a site line to make sure your beams are consistently centered. It helps in determining which end of the beam to shave during fitting on the clamp.
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EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
dvm27 replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
You’re gonna love your spindle sander. Is it oscillating? If not make sure to move the wood all the time so you don’t get burns. With the oscillating spindle sander not only can you do inside curves but inside bevels as well at the same time. Your knuckles will thank you when it becomes time to fair the inside of the hull! -
Beautiful work Ben. Must be fun to go back and forth between the two ships. Do you have plans to rig either/both?
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I also use one continuous sheet of 180 grit paper vs. two individual sheets. I find that with two sheets I can get a line when passing through the center. OF course that's only a problem when the piece to be thicknessed is wider than half of the carrier.
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I would do a rough sanding of the bevels before installing but would wait until they are glued in place before final fairing. There are many variations that may cause errors in precisely mounting frames and, if beveled to their final lines, these are impossible to correct once in place without affecting the shape of the hull.
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