dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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I have fond memories of making this model over 40 years ago. I believe it is sitting in my son's basement gathering cobwebs. -
I was wondering how you were going to finish those 3D figures in a realistic manner. Using them as masters for the wood colored resin makes perfect sense. 3D printing sure has come a long way. Is this kind of resolution possible on a home printer or is Chris's 3D printer some super commercial brand?
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Nice job Kevin. Preac makes a fence thats1/2" tall. If you can find one it makes cutting mortises a lot easier. Maybe an optical illusion but the first gunport (not the bridle port) looks a bit short.
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Unfortunately, you have "achieved perfection" so you'll just have to keep up that standard! What about adding a 1mm filler strip above the port side clamp? It would be invisible under the waterway.
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Planning ahead is key to success in this type of project. You may also need the quarterdeck and forecastle beams in some locations before fitting out the main deck. You may wish to place a thin piece of rope from the stem to the sternpost (see Chuck's last post) as a site line to make sure your beams are consistently centered. It helps in determining which end of the beam to shave during fitting on the clamp.
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EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
dvm27 replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
You’re gonna love your spindle sander. Is it oscillating? If not make sure to move the wood all the time so you don’t get burns. With the oscillating spindle sander not only can you do inside curves but inside bevels as well at the same time. Your knuckles will thank you when it becomes time to fair the inside of the hull! -
Beautiful work Ben. Must be fun to go back and forth between the two ships. Do you have plans to rig either/both?
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I also use one continuous sheet of 180 grit paper vs. two individual sheets. I find that with two sheets I can get a line when passing through the center. OF course that's only a problem when the piece to be thicknessed is wider than half of the carrier.
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I would do a rough sanding of the bevels before installing but would wait until they are glued in place before final fairing. There are many variations that may cause errors in precisely mounting frames and, if beveled to their final lines, these are impossible to correct once in place without affecting the shape of the hull.
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Obviously the major advantage to the sled is that you can thickness wood to incredibly thin widths. I use plexiglass for dimensional stability
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Good luck with this amazing model. I am following the Midwest Modelers You Tube build of her and am agog at the number of after market options available for her.
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Nice job on those sheer planks Kevin. I think you will find that shaping and installing the planksheers, especially those short pieces over the hancing pieces, will be one of the more challenging tasks on the model. To that end it is imperative that the sheer/toptimber line be perfectly fair. Consider if you will be shaping the timberheads in situ or off the model. Shaping them in place is extremely difficult so if you decide to make them off the model I would cut the timberheads off now and use a sanding stick athwartships to fair the toptimber line (it looks a bit wavy to my eye). I found that making the timberheads on the Byrnes saw assembly line style was easy and the results were very consistent.
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In my opinion Winchelsea is all about the planking while Speedwell is all about the framing. I think Chuck has developed a system which practically guarantees a beautiful hull form and in this respect may be easier than Winchelsea.
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Lovely work Chuck. Seems like those frames take forever but you can turn out 2-3 a day once you get in the groove. Obviously more labor intensive than a POB model but for those who wish to make a POF model Chuck's methods are about as foolproof as it gets. Getting a perfect line of sweep and port sills has always proved difficult for me but Chuck seems to have solved this problem. For the inside of the frames some may wish to invest in an oscillating spindle sander. It makes quick work of these difficult curves.
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Nice job on those deadeyes. I use a similar jig but cut the wire on the side about halfway down. This is a good time to learn silver soldering if you are not already doing this. It makes for a very tidy deadeye.
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Photocopying works out if you have one foot X and Y axis's printed on the part to be copied. Most copy stores machines allow you to adjust the X and Y axis's for slight adjustments and usually don't charge for the trial and error of slight adjustments. Just curious - how are you measuring the heights inside the hull for the clamps, hooks etc.? Are you using a height gauge or measuring up from the inner surface of the rising wood?
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Don't forget that when you level your toptimber line use a long sanding stick with 120 grit on one side and 180 on the other. Sand both toptimber lines athwartships at the same time and creep up on the lines. This way both the height and angle of the toptimbers will be correct.
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Wonderful update, Marc. Looking forward to many more this year from you. Best wishes for a happy and healthy New Year.
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I had the same problem with my first POF model. Nobody will notice the thinned sections but they will notice bumps and protrusions. For final fairing use pencil marks across the hull. Sand, mark, sand etc. until all pencil marks are gone. Whatever is leftover is your perfectly faired hull. On your next model you'll be less inclined to cut exactly to the frame marks, perhaps leaving 1/16" for those inevitable frame raising errors. Happy Holidays and congratulations on an excellent first POF model.
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I'd like to show you how we make snowballs in Baltimore, Kevin! Have a Happy Holiday season and looking forward to more excellent updates this year.
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Well gang, Speedwell is finished except for installing the anchors and adding coils over all the belayed ropes. It has been a seven-year collaboration with David Antscherl and I think the finished model has beautiful lines. She has just enough rigging to make it interesting without the repetition of a full ship rigged setup. Thanks to Chuck for his excellent blocks and rope which really dress up the model. All blocks for sails are included even though they are not present. Thanks to all who have commented on her build over the years and I'll be back in the fall with, hopefully, a new project.
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With those tiny milling bits I often use them to make a series of small overlapping holes then make shallow passes to clear out the remaining wood between the holes. Might be hard to do in a drill press but the Sherline Mill makes it a breeze.
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Wonderful work Ben. The slight modification to the carvings makes a huge difference. It's the little details that matter. The carved letters are amazingly well executed. But they look out of place to me. Just a personal opinion but I prefer the flush painted letters, especially if you are painting the outer upper counter and lower counter motifs as suggested by the back cover of Volume II. Others will, I'm sure, favor the current version.
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