dvm27
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Brig Le FAVORI 1806 by KORTES - 1:55
dvm27 replied to KORTES's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
You should see my junk box! Your work is stunning Kortes. Nobody gets perfect results every time but persistence pays off. -
Congratulations on the completion of your beautiful ship model Ian. It compares very favorably to David’s model and that’s high praise indeed.
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The ships of the Cruizer class, of which Speedwell was one, were built in 1752-1754 to address the prevailing French and Austrian Wars. The Admiralty wanted fast, shallow draught ships that could carry out policing operations in the Channel and Foreland Stations and discourage French privateers and smugglers. Therefore, a variety of hull design and rig combinations was employed by the Admiralty to see which best fulfilled these requirements. Some were ketch rigged (Speedwell, Fly, Happy and Ranger) while others were snow rigged (Wolf and Cruiser). All this experimentation eventually led to a refinement wherein Cruiser was given a mizzen mast (1753) and ship rigged. This proved to be so successful that the ketch rigged sloops fell out of favor as the ship rigged sloop became prevalent. With the advent of the brig-of-war later in the century the snow rig once again gained popularity. (From Building Plank on Frame Ship Models, Ron McCarthy. Naval Institute Press)
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Hole size is proportional to block size so if you're having trouble perhaps the blocks are too small or, more likely, the rope is too big. In any case for rigging one must have a set of miniature reamers such as: https://www.amazon.com/Model-Craft-PBR2194-Cutting-0-6-2-0mm/dp/B001JJZ76I/ref=asc_df_B001JJZ76I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=598232118681&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1012005693499827230&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1018605&hvtargid=pla-422910410143&psc=1 As well, using CA on the final 1/2" of the line and pointing it after dry will allow you to get the rope started as James has stated above.
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Rest in peace Bob. Your log updates were always a highlight of my day.
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Love the stippled detail on the bitts!
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That's as fine a model as ever came out of the famous ship builders model workshops in the mid-1900s. We hope you will take many close up photos when finished.
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I would have never thought one could design a foolproof method of plank on frame construction but you seem to be on track to accomplish this Chuck. Your framing plan also insures that the sweep and gun ports will be in perfect alignment, always a difficult task. And yes, it is a pleasure to build without elaborate upright building boards. You can actually appreciate the fine lines of the hull as they are formed.
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You should try a mock up rudder in the space. For some reason none of the rudders on my models will go through the full range of movement because my openings are too small.
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After the previous post I was wondering of you could make that incredibly complex taffrail rail to match. I have my answer. Brilliant work Ben!
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Well I wondered how you were going to approach those difficult apron and (presumably) stern deadwood steps. That is a brilliant solution and insures those cants will seat at the exact location and angle required. Here's a mind bending thought exercise. If one did not possess a laser cutting machine would your framing method be easier or more difficult than the techniques described in our Speedwell book? I'd have to really ponder that one.
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Those mortises are very difficult to cut at first. Accurate layout with a height gage is essential. If the joint looks a little sloppy after the sills are installed a little white glue applied over the joint then light sanding will make a perfect joint
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Either one would work so long as the ports are correctly framed. But, I believe the right image ("sided") is the one I used as I included the widths on my working copy.
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Speedwell will be a wonderful follow up project for those building Winchelsea. I'm about 2/3 finished rigging her and it's also a lot of fun, without all the repetition of a ship rigged three master. Chuck has chosen well - she is a beautiful little ship. For those not familiar with her there is a particularly fine model in the NMM on which our model was based. Here is a link to the photo. There is also are also superb McNarry and Reed models as well as a lovely bone model if you do an internet search. https://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_07_2016/post-505-0-31402400-1468369675.jpg
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Nice job Kevin. I've not seen silver soldering done where the solder was sweated on one piece first (like tinning in soft soldering). Also, that large metal nut you are using to secure one piece acts as a heat sink drawing heat away from the joint. That's why those ceramic pins you ordered work so well. I would start by making brass rings. The more you make the better the joints will be as you refine your technique. I agree with you that you can't accurately hang the pintle straps until the gudgeon straps are in place. I would hang the top and bottom pintles first then fill in the middle three.
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ancre Le Gros Ventre by ChrisLBren - 1/36
dvm27 replied to ChrisLBren's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Fantastic work Chris. Are you getting more time in the workshop these days? -
Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
dvm27 replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Yes Druxey, my grandfather told me of such a thing, but few living people have actually experienced it😉 -
I made my own and they were fun to make. I suppose you could make them without a lathe but it would be a lot more work. But, if using a lathe, the order of operations is critical. As well you'll need a mill with a rotary table or drill press with a holding jig for the deadeye holes. Or, you could use CNC if you have the equipment https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19253-le-gros-ventre-by-marsalv-148-pof/page/15/#comments. If you have none of the above and need only a few then I would buy them from Syren as theirs are the best commercially available and pennies apiece. Otherwise the investment in equipment would be hundreds of dollars!
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A simple jig will insure that the frames are level and parallel. Use a 1/8" plywood piece that's taller than the top timbers and wider than the widest frame. In the center mortise out a slot the width of the keel and height of the rising wood. Glue a couple of 45 degree pieces on the back to keep the jig at 90 degrees to the building board. If your jig is a very tight fit to the keel you can slide it up and down the keel to insure the frames are at the correct location. By marking a centerline on the jig you can pencil in the height of the top timbers and maximum height of breath of the frame to insure they're installed correctly.
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Your steady rest is ingenious Johann!
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Nice planking runs, Gary!
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Like Chuck I have had the privilege of test driving Jim's new disk sander and echo everything that Chuck has written. As a scratch builder I find the disk sander amongst my most used power tools and the new version is smaller, quieter and in every way the equal of the larger version. But it has the added advantages of a reversable motor and variable speed. There are many times where sanding a complex piece on the left side just makes things a whole bunch easier. As well the smaller disk is not a problem as how often does one use the full disk for sanding at one time anyway? Of course I'll keep both of my Byrne's disk sanders on the workbench - with different grits to speed up things. Hat's off to Jim for building a better mousetrap. Maybe now he'll consider a oscillating spindle sander for the workshop.
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Lovely head work, Ben. This experience should come in handy when it's time to do those Pegasus head structures.
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