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Everything posted by dvm27
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Great and timely discussion for me as well! What I found confusing is that the illustration in Lees for cable laid is "inboard" but it isn't labeled "port, inboard". So this is how I'm rigging Speedwell with the above advice and Druxey's valuable assistance Shrouds turned under deadeyes from right to left then, of course crossed over left to right above the deadeye. Thus, as mentioned above, the starboard shroud end is fore of the shroud and the port shroud end is aft of the shroud. Don't forget the lanyard changes as well. On the port side the end knot is most fore deadeye hole and on the starboard it starts of the most aft deadeye hole (in other words opposite the shroud ends). I almost forgot that one. Have I got it right? I have been looking at lots of contemporary models and have seen every variation of the above so maybe they weren't as obsessed with these minute details as we are!
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Can you site a source for this statement? Lee's makes no mention of this and photos of contemporary models I am looking at show the end of the rope on the aft side port and starboard.
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I'm betting that that was not in your carry on bag!
- 978 replies
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HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
dvm27 replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Nice work, Ron. After a few POF models I changed my sequence when assembling frames. I now glue the butt joints of the futtocks together over the pattern, allow to dry then fit the chock by using the assembled frame as a template. A slightly off chock can affect the final shape of the frame so fitting the chock to it's opening insures this doesn't happen.- 122 replies
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- Euryalus
- Plank-on-frame
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They've changed the lobby since my last visit before the pandemic. Now you access the Age of Sail in the right rear of the main floor where the elevator and steps are. I was able to get there in the 3D tour. As far as the basement where Grant's office, the library and all the good stuff happens there used to be a bookstore and window into the ship model repair shop but I don't know if that's still available to the general public. Grant once gave me a private tour of the top floor where many models were stored.
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Replacement motor for Preac saw
dvm27 replied to Kevin Kenny's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Same experience as Kurt. What would have been trashed is now a great second saw for my workshop, -
Seizings - what am I doing wrong?
dvm27 replied to David Lester's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I have just started rigging my model and I am certain that seizing is much more difficult on a model than in real life. What is working for me is using a small pinpoint of CA to secure the first seizing wrap (away from the throat). Then the seizing is wetted, wrapped around the rope towards the throat several times under tension, passed through the throat then wrapped twice between the lines. A small blob of white glue is placed around the seizing and allowed to dry. After it dries the edges are trimmed. Still working on splicing served line but at least I have the seizing down. I'll post some photos in a day or so as it is much easier to do than describe. -
Roughly the equivalent of tying the last ratline Mike. Looks terrific!
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- winchelsea
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So how do you thin your shellac? with 95% alcohol and, if so, at what dilution?
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Good decision to raise it's location Chuck. I'm betting the Master carvers had the same reticence to pierce the original carving in that location as well!
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- winchelsea
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Sweet work, Chuck. They're like the perfect carpet that ties the room together.
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Glenn, your Winchelsea is coming along beautifully! Ship modelling excellence is not something I was born with. It has been a long and trying journey with many scrap pieces along the way. You just need to decide whether you wish to build many good models or a few amazing models in your lifetime. If you're satisfied with the former that it's much easier. If you're a perfectionist it's all about the journey and making sure every piece is a perfect fit. The first time you decide to install a piece that is not quite perfect you've crossed a threshold that could easily become the norm. So lot's of remakes and ungluing along this path but ultimately the one I find most satisfying.
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HH wrote "As a near-sighted person for most of my life, I am adjusting to the mid-life reality of constantly removing my glasses for close work, while simultaneously resisting the pressing need for bi-focals/transition lenses. This is the status of my mid-life crisis." Ha! I use bifocals and 5x Optivisors for my modeling. Wait till your midlife crisis advances to senior crisis...
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Echo by tlevine - FINISHED - Cross-Section
dvm27 replied to tlevine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Fantastic cross section Toni! Love the coppered bottom.- 52 replies
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Nice job on those swivel mounts Chuck! I read somewhere (can't find the source) that ships only armed one side with swivels. They were easily transferred to the other side as needed.
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- winchelsea
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The Winnie contemporary model steps only make sense if the molding sits proud of the planking enough to actually be a step.
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- winchelsea
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With regards to what Druxey has said check out this link to the Royal George in their collection. If there's a finer example of the model makers art I have yet to see it. It's also at an unusual scale of 3/16. Check out the figurehead in the second photo on the site. They can also be downloaded in hi resolution. https://collections.mfa.org/objects/38550/100gun-ship-of-the-line
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But she is shown in her launching cradle so technically speaking, rigging would be inappropriate 😉
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The builder of the bottom ship model is much better than whoever built the top!
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- winchelsea
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How about trying the Admiralty Models Echo cross section. The plans are free and a Power Point tutorial is also downloadable. There are several on this website (including the link under my name). http://admiraltymodels.homestead.com/Echo-X-section.html
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