captainbob
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Everything posted by captainbob
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Fred I did not build the BL but my scratch built LGH is very similar. At the stern the transom comes up to the top of the bulwarks the rail mounts on the transom. Here’s the entry that shows what I did. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4692-lettie-g-howard-schooner-by-capnbob-148-pob/?p=158749 Bob
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It may just be the shadows, but it looks like it is mounted with the bow high as if jumping a wave. I love it. Bob
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I’m really sorry for not responding sooner. I don’t know how I missed these posts. John. Pete and Nils. Thanks for telling me how much you like the Spray. It was a fun build. John, how are you coming with your research and marine drafting? I redraw the lines for all my models, and I’ve always enjoyed it. Let me know if I can help. Bob
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Nice rework. When I started drafting I was told “Buy the best eraser you can. Because you will erase twice as many lines as you draw.” Now I seem to redo twice as much as I build. Bob
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It's a fine job on both the stern and bow. Bob
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I have not seen this method of building, it looks interesting. Bob
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Thanks for the interest. I make the bands out of .005 brass sheet. When I touch the thin brass with the solder melted on the tip of the iron, the brass gets hot and the solder wicks in before the wood scorches. It’s quite fast. Only one or two seconds. Bob
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“I hope they will make a nice addition to the deck.” Yes, the barrels will really dress up the deck. I will be needing a seine net for the Lettie, what material did you find? Thanks, Bob
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I hadn’t heard of a 'counter rim frame' but it looks quite useful. It's always a joy to see your posts. Bob
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Symphony, Ingomar, Symphony, Ingomar, decisions decisions. Bob
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Nice work at such a small scale. If the length is 29 cm what are the frames, about 1.5 mm? Bob
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Good looking chute. Is that where Santa will come out? Bob
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Sounds like a good plan, but it really doesn’t matter. If it is anything like the Ingomar, it will be beautiful. Bob
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You found me out. Really it all depends on what is being soldered. In the case of a spar band where the two ends make a tab with a hole through it and a ring to fasten a line or block soft solder is ok. But something like deadeye strops where after soldering you have to shape them and there may be forces on the solder joint then I use silver solder. Bob
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“Yeah for me...after 11 days and 3 tries, the hawse timbers are cut, assembled, shaped, and installed.” Yes, hooray. That’s when I go into my happy dance. Bob
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Yes, less cleanup afterwards was an unexpected joy. If the flux (I use a liquid that is so old the label is gone and I don’t know what it is) only wets the touching surfaces that is where the solder goes. Bob
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You only had to do them twice? Fantastic ! I would have had to . . . Enough of that. They look great. Bob
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Thanks Alfons. A few months ago I tried a something new while soldering. Instead of getting the metal hot and then applying the solder, I shaped the metal and put flux in the joint. I touched the iron to the solder to pick up a small amount on the tip of the iron. I then touched the wet soldering iron to the edge of the metal where the surfaces joined. The solder wicked in beautifully without too much if any overflow. Bob
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