wefalck
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
wefalck replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Pat, perhaps one of those dapping-blocks with half-round grooves would help: You position the strap symmetrically over the groove (you can use a piece of tape as stop) and then push it down with a suitable piece of round rod. Finish the loop with round pliers while the rod is still in the loop. As you have a mill you can mill a half-round slot also in a piece of metal or hard wood, using a ball-nose end-mill or a round burr. The diameter should be the inside diameter of the loop plus twice the thickness of the etched brass.- 993 replies
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It seem to be a standard 'tool' in emergency wards - a couple of years ago I cut myself badly, when trying to cut a tile (the artery in the wrist was a near miss) and when the Spanish emergency ward finally accepted me (I had myself to neatly bandaged, so they thought I had already been looked after), the lady there just dabbed some CA into the edges of the wound and pulled them together. After a couple of weeks the CA around peeld off. The good thing about this is that it doesn't leave extra scars from stitching. Still looking for the real 'super-glue', something that you can apply at your leisure, position the parts at your leisure, and then 'tell' the stuff to cure now. The UV-curing acrylics that dentists use and that have appeared in DIY stores some years ago, go into that direction, but only work, when the UV-light can get to the stuff. I hate CA (though I use it from time to time) and still have to manage to finish a bottle before it cures ...
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There are two extremes: the ones that want to show they skills in working with materials and those, who want to create a real-life impression of the ship. In the first case obviously one would show the bare materials, while in the second everything that was painted on a real ship would be painted on the model. In between there is a whole spectrum of combinations. Having said this, there seem to be also certain 'fashions' or 'conventions' in ship models. For instance, there is no obvious reason why in kits the keels and the stem are in darker wood than the planking, but people seem to be used to this appearance and buy such kits.
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Toolmakers in the old days used what was called the 'button-method' to precisely locate drill-holes in jigs. The buttons were hardened bushings to guide the drills. Perhaps an adaptation of the method could be used by making a template for the 8 mm-hole from some not too thin brass (or even steel), which then can be clamped at the right place and would prevent the drill from wandering off. Did you use standard twist-drills or wood-drills ? The wood-drills have the two cutting edges sort of inclined from the periphery to the centre, rather than the other way around. In other words, they cut first on the circumference, which gives cleaner holes and reduces the risk of ripping out fibres.
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HMCSS Victoria 1855 by BANYAN - 1:72
wefalck replied to BANYAN's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
I would do such work on the lathe perhaps. One would need to figure out a work-holding for the cross-slide. If one has a quick-change tool-post, one could hold the square brass bar in that, which has the benefit of limited adjustability in Z. If have done template and scraper cutting that way. Otherwise, as the head of the Sherlin mill can be swung into the horizontal, it should not be too difficult to mount the vise in a way that you arrive at a similar configuration as for the Vanda-Lay mill. Or I did not understand very well the geometric constraints.- 993 replies
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I would make the drilling operation dependent on whether the hull above the waterline will be painted or not. If it is going to be painted, I would make some short cylinders from some material of about the same hardness as the wood. These cylinders then can be bored out to the correct internal diameter and then inserted into pre-drilled holes as per the suggestions. Using a reamer is a good strategy, but one might still see an a bit jagged edge, if the hole goes across two mor more planks. Forstner bit start from 12 mm - 1/2" I think. Using an ordinary twist drill might force planks apart. I think, I would make myself a sort of crown-drill from a suitable piece of steel pipe or from a piece of steel that is turned down and bore to the right size. On the milling machine I would cut saw teeth into the front edge and then harden it. With a slip-stone you can hone the breast of the teeth to give them a keen edge. Such a drill can be repeatedly sharpened/honed without changing the diameter. As there are several teeth cutting at the same time, it would not force the planks apart.
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The prototype seems to use cap-nuts - it would be easy to simulate that by making two bolts with hexagonal heads that you stick into the telegraph from both sides. Making bolt and nut in one piece is an easy way to cheat, when the parts become too small otherwise. I have done this e.g. with fastening bolts for winches and the likes. Before I had a lathe, I used my little power-drill to make such bolts: first I turned a brass nail to size and shape; then I formed the hexagonal head with file-strokes, using the hexagonal collet-nut as a guide. By counting the number of file strokes on each side, I managed to produce reasonably symmetric heads.
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Just pulled out my copy of Petrejus' book (the English version, the original was published in Dutch btw, which may explain the mix of units). On p. 261 there is a small-scale reproduction of the plans in 1:48 scale. In the cross-section one can clearly see how the masts are stepped on the keelson and one can also estimate the mast-rake from this. On p. 153 there is also a spar-plan that shows the mast-rake. Otherwise davyboy is right, that the captain had some descretion as to the actual rake and it may be changed as a function of the load in order to optimise the behaviour under sail.
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Interesting proposition. Could you give some indications as to the technical limits of your processes, e.g. minimum diameter of parts vs. lengths, minimum wall thicknesses etc., as is done for e.g. 3D-printing or photo-etching ?
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They used to be a standard implement in any drawing-office at the time when they worked with ink on transparent paper - as an eraser. Had one from my university time and re-assigned it to the workshop a long time ago. Keep the protruding fibres short, that makes the dust less of a nuisance - it is the long fibres that can become itchy in shirt sleeves etc.* Didn't know about the 2 mm variety and should look for it. There is another variety of about 10 mm diameter that is held together with a tighly wound thread and that is used by porcelain-painters to polish the gold paint after firing: I also use the pen for preparing wires for soldering. ---------------- * if you ever moved around linoleum flooring with glass-fibre backing, then you won't complain about that little bit of dust ...
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I don't think a dedicated 'how-to-do'-book for this exists. And what for ? The process is not different from any other model of that kind. Perhaps you could be more specific on what kind of information you are lacking ?
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3D printing does not involves 'sprues' in the same way as injection moulding. There will be supporting structures printed with same material or sometimes a different material. However, Pat's parts are acrylic resin and this cannot be drawn into wires. Acrylic resins are highly cross-linked polymers with no plasticisers in it. It can be thermo-formed, e.g. bent or vacuum-formed, to some extent, but parts need to be tempered afterwards, as otherwise stress-corrosion will occur. There are people, who have developped the drawing of styrene sprues into wires to an art-form, but I have serious reservations against their use. The plasticisers in styrene evaporate slowly with time, making the material brittle, as does UV irradiation. While this does not have too serious consequences on relatively massive and painted parts, thin wires are likely to become very brittle within our life-time. Such wires may also not be sufficiently well covered in paint to keep UV-light out. Considering this, I would go for metal wires.
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If you can source it 'down-under', there are also pre-tinned copper wires that make the soldering easier. I got mine from the UK, from www.wires.co.uk.
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Some years ago I got myself a hot-air soldering station as used in electronics. Together with soldering paste, it allows the 'touch-less' soldering of delicate set-ups. As the air temperature can be pre-set between 100°C and 470°C it is useful for other applications too. It cost around 50€ incl. shipping.
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Well, as was discussed in the other thread on this subject, if you can push more than the thread itself through the blocks, the holes in the block are too large, or the thread is too thin for the size of block. The sheaves were made a tad wider than the rope and the slots in the block-shell was just a bit wider than the sheave to have the sheave running easily in it. If the sheave and slot were wider, there would be a risk of the rope jumping out of the sheave and jamming in the block. Both, the sheave and the shell have to guide the rope. So, the best thing is to just stiffen the thread with a bit of fast-drying varnish (e.g. nail-varnish). You can also smooth the hole with a fine jeweller's broach - depending on the size of the block, you may want to round the edges of the drilled hole with a very fine round file in order to simulate the sheave.
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Actually, some white glue or fast-drying varnish might be better ... also for the fingers . Not sure, why I wrote 'CA', as I don't really like the stuff anyway.
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Somehow, I didn't see this before ... not my scale and period, I guess. The printing material is acrylic, if I am not mistaken. So either dichloromethane, a special cement for acrylic glass, or ordinary 'plastic glue' (which typically contains dicholoromethane as solvent) should do the job. With the pure solvent, dichlormethane, acrylic parts can be welded together seamlessly and without traces.
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Perhaps the Chinese are not so used to Imperial measures and don't have the right gauges. I never systematically checked my drills, but doubt that the metric ones would be off by more than a few 1/100. On the other hand, I tend to buy 'professional' stuff from workshop clearance sales on ebay - needs patience, but when the opportunity arises, I stock up.
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That is some artisanal talent 👍 I also would have thought of how to do this on the lathe. BTW, I had seen the 'pulling threads' somewhere before and think it gives better results than sewing on the sails. I was wondering, whether one couldn't splice the thick thread to the end of one to be pulled or to twist them together with some CA glue to make them easier to pull through, than the double thickness of the thicker thread
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You mean the diameter is not correct ? I never seem to have had this problem with metric ones, though there are certainly somewhat larger tolerances in cheaper drills. However, I think for modelling purposes we can tolerate these tolerances.
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You may have to post this question in the digital modelling section of this forum. In order to show a geometrically correct projection of the spiled planks onto a 2-D-plane, your program would need to be able to calculate the distances between e.g. the frames and the angle at which the spline-curve of the outside shape intersects with the frames. TurboCAD does not have such functions. You would need a specialised CAD-package for that, but I don't know which one would do it. I gather one could do it the 'pedestrian' way in TurboCad too. You would need to measure the lengths (in 3D space) of the upper and lower edge of the planks between each frame and the height of each of the intersecting points above a reference plane. You then can draw the respective sections of the edges, starting from the middle, in the right orientation as projected onto a 2D surface. Not sure though, that you would be able to achieve sufficient precision that way.
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A lot of French ships of that time did have half-lid gun-ports and stowed their guns that way on the upper deck. Below is an image of the BELLE POULE (1834) in the Musée de la Marine in Paris that shows the same arrangement (sorry for the pixelated image, but the lighting for conservation reasons was a bit dim): And indeed, the model of the CRÉOLE in the same museum has this arrangement. It is not Johann's invention.
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This days, when one has the right CAD-software, one can do this directly in the numerical model.
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