bhermann
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Everything posted by bhermann
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Hi Dave and Jim - I like to put out the details of what I am up to. It may help someone along at some point, or it may generate a comment or suggestion about a better way to do something. Either way, we all benefit! Not much work in the shipyard lately, I need to go through each of the spars to see if anthing else can be added at this point, then I am going to ahve to decide on sails - I tend to slow down while chewing over anything this major. Bob
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That's got it Alfons - nice work! Bob
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Mercury by DSiemens - FINISHED - BOTTLE
bhermann replied to DSiemens's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Daniel - what are dimensions of the wood you are using for the planks? It may be that if you were able to use narrower stock (to allow more planks between the top rail and the keel) they would lay better than the few planks that fit in the space now. I think what you have now looks pretty good but I understand the desire to get everything as smooth as possible. The comments about the importance of fairing are also crucial to getting a good run of planking. Bob -
"Follow the topic"
bhermann replied to Nirvana's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
C'mon you guys - don't make me pull out the old TRS-80 or Commodore 64!!!! Bob -
"Follow the topic"
bhermann replied to Nirvana's topic in How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT**
I am happy with the way this version works. I confess to being oblivious to the feature on the old forum -
One more thought on the lugs. I find that silver solder flows toward the heat source. The idea was counter-intuitive to me but it does work that way. In future attempts you may want to think about applying the paste on one side of the band and applying the torch to the other side. Good luck - whatever you decide to do will be fine. The band with eyes looks good to me. Bob
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- BlueJacket Shipcrafters
- Gloucester fishing schooner
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Alfons - the "pin" idea Russ suggests worked well for me when adding multiple lugs to a band. Basically you drill a small hole in the band and file a short tang into the inside edge of the lug. The tang fits tightly into the hole and provides a good mechanical connection for the solder. I may have a photo of the tang in my log... if not I'll be happy to dig up a picture if you'd like. I tried to make my lugs look like galvanized steel, based on photos of the actual ship. Bob
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It's good to see this log starting back up... I recall many wonderful photos and ideas. Looking forward to seeing it again. Bob
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Thanks for the photo - this is what I was trying to describe in words!
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Jim - That is some very nice work on the deck fixtures. I particularly like the look of the cabin skylight. The decking looks good too! Bob
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Russ That is a very clean scarph - good to see you getting some time at the bench. Bob
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So far I've just taken a file to the corners of the blocks to make them more oval than square. Of course the number of blocks in my current build is around 100, it'd be a different story if I were doing Victory! Bob
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Thanks for sharing, Jay. The belaying pin coils look like the way I was taught to do it, a couple of turns around the pin flipping the last one to lock it, coil the rope in front of the pin, then pull the working end through the coil with a twist and loop it over the pin, forming a hanger. Isn't it amazing how many jigs start with "put a nail (or two nails) in a block... Bob
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Russ - that is a very nice jig for doing the deadeyes. If you'd like a little more work to do, maybe you'd considering opening a topic on it in the "Wooden Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs" forum I'm sure a wider audience would appreciate it. Bob
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David Ah yes, the chainplates... I remember stealing your technique for getting them through the rub rail to get mine through the top rail. Thanks for taking the time to re-post this finished build. Now it's time to get cracking on Sultana! Bob
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In case I haven't shown this before (in this incarnation of the log) here is the setup I use for mousing hooks. The secret for me is keeping the connection being moused under tension so I can have both hands free to do the work. In this case that means putting a thread through the block being moused and clamping the end in a hemostat that is draped over the third hand so gravity will keep the line tight. The spar is clamped into the Panavise. Before setting up I tie the mousing line on the hook. The knot winds up hidden inside the wrapping. The business end of the previous photo I then dab a little CA onto the hook, give it a couple of wraps and hold it in place for a minute or so. Then I take the working end of the thread and put it back through the mouse with a needle and dab with CA again. After trimming the excess thread, this is the result. The hook will slide around the eyebolt but it doesn't come off. There - the block for the main topsail sheet is now attached securely. Bob
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Nice clean and precise work Russ. I hope you are going to get some of the false stanchions installed real soon, so we can all breathe a little easier. That looks scary, particularly the section where the scuppers are! Bob
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That photo of the samson post looks pretty good from here. All I can say on that one is practice, practice, practice. The structure with the slide-out panel is a hatchway to belowdecks. The top of it either lifts up on a hinge or slides toward the fore end of the cabin. The slide-out piece is then removed and you can step over the cabin wall to go below. You really need at least one more angle to get the full picture. Bluenose has a side view in the plans labeled "View at Center-line" that shows this. I am including photos of the analogous object from my build. It has a door instead of a sliding panel and the hatch cover is a slider. It isn't an exact match but it might help clarify the usage somewhat. Bob
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Thanks Russ, Elia, Brian and Harvey. I am happy I didn't have to execute on anything more drastic. I agree that people spend more time on repairs than they like to report - me, I've got nothing to lose so I just let it all out there. Hopefully someone will benefit from it, as I have benefited from the many fine tips and logs on MSW. I put a link to the repair into the "Oops" topic Danny started so those who don't spend a lot of time looking at 20th century fishing schooner logs might have a chance at finding the fix - maybe I'll edit that post with a photo of the damage. It looks like I'll have to think about building up a little stock of something harder than kit-supplied basswood in the future. My next build is at 1:96, so those small bits are about to get even smaller. I'll have to trawl the LHS for some boxwood next time I'm there! Bob
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Thanks for the response, Alfons. I was too impatient to wait until I had a chance to get to the LHS, so I used the medium CA I have on hand. It worked OK, I just had to redrill the holes a little. For the first attempt at a repair, I filed away half the broken end of the jaw Then glued a piece of stripwood onto the cut and clamped it overnight. Then I filed away the overhanging parts and was left with this. It was a bit thin for my taste so I glued and clamped another piece, then filed away the excess. This is what I was left with Once that was done, I drilled the hole, applied CA to the end of the piece, and redrilled. I put some line through the hole and gave it a few good tugs. It feels much more secure than the original, so I won't be moving on to attempt number 2 or 3. Number 2 would have been to cut the end of the jaw flat and dowel on some fresh stock. Number 3 was removing the entire jaw, which probably would have led to number 4 - rebuilding the entire gaff - whew! Thanks for all the suggestions and for sticking with this. Bob
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She is coming along nicely. About that "this depends on this, which requires that..." - you have discovered the true joy of model ship building - this is a theme you will repeat over and over again through almost every phase of the build! Bob
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Floyd - isn't that walnut a pain in the butt to work with! It splinters, or splits along the grain, or just doesn't play well. Nice save, I'm sure it was frustrating to have to wait overnight - twice! About the cropping. I see all the way to the end of the stem piece when looking at the first two photos. I'm not sure how much more there should be Bob
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Since John has no update, I'll stay over on this topic for just a moment. I believe one of the ancient bases for all this is Imbolc, If you Google it, you can find references to Irish, Roman, Pagan, and Wiccan festivities to name a few. As an amateur astronomer, I am interested that it falls half way between the Winter Solstice (Northern Hemisphere) and the vernal equinox. It seems that it was originally one of those "we really hope Spring is coming soon" events invented by people suffering from SAD. Now, John, please get us back on track Bob
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Bob - thanks for bringing us a fine example of a build we don't get to see too much of. I love the details that you were able to include at this scale and the realism it adds to the build. Well done! Bob
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- picket boat
- model shipways
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Gosh Daniel, I look away for a few minutes, and you're done! I love the details you are able to include and to suggest while working in such a small scale. Congratulations on a job well done! Bob
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