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bhermann

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Everything posted by bhermann

  1. Hey! Someone snuck in here and uploaded pictures of a ship model - kind of breaks the flow of things, don't you think? The gallery is looking good, as is the transom. Keep up the good work, Sjors. Now back to the topic at hand - is this the song you are talking about? Let me tell ya a story about a boll weevil Now, some of you may not know But a boll weevil is an insect And he's found mostly where cotton grows Now, where he comes from, hm, nobody really knows But this is the way the story goes... Bob
  2. Nice find on the photo, Dave - a good bit of research. Now I see a note on the plan by the eyebolt that reads "Stowed position of flying backstay p/s - belay fall to itself". While it doesn't answer the question about color of the pendant, it makes me feel better about what they would do to allow the boom to swing out. Thanks for posting the shot. And keep up the good work - this has been a joy to watch! Bob
  3. I haven't been able to find any photos that show the flying backstay rigged, so I have nothing to add. The plans I have don't specify a color either. I don't know, it seems like having it set up would severely limit the range of motion for the main sail, so i am thinking about leaving it off - but I've still got some time to think about that. I wonder how pendants on other ships were set up, tarred or not? Looking forward to see how you handle it, Dave. Bob
  4. Richard - I have had success with a product called Patch-N-Paint for filling the hull and painting. It is a product I first discovered when removing wallpaper and painting plaster walls. It dries hard and sands to a good finish. It worked well when finishing the basswood hull on Bluenose. The label describes it as a lightweight spackle and it comes pre-mixed. Applied with a heavy hand: After sanding: The finished and painted hull I haven't had any problems with it in the 4 years since the hull was painted - nor in the 10 years since I started painting the walls of the house! Bob
  5. Looking good Dave - you are getting there very cleanly. I think you are right that the long part of the flying backstay would look more natural (no pun intended) in tan. I'll have to see if I can get a definitive answer on that. Maybe Floyd will chime in on this, or someone who has the Jenson book on Bluenose II. Bob
  6. Welcome to MSW, Nenad. Cutty Sark is on my list of "someday" models, so I will be watching your process with great interest. Your life story sounds familiar, so many things to get between a modeler and his build. I'm glad you are able to find some time now to pick up on it. Wow, that is a lot of deadeyes for setting up a single mast - I forget how complex these beasts can be. Enjoy the process and please share your progress! Bob
  7. Nice pickup, Jack, Having those starboard pins behind their port counterparts would have looked odd. Isn't it great to find these things early while they are relatively easy to fix? Nice attention to detail on this. The hull is looking good too. Bob
  8. Dave - that's the way I understand it - take a deep breath, drill pilot holes up through the keel, and then send the screws through the pedestals and into the pilot holes... I am feeling better and better about putting mine on a cradle I guess this is something a lot of us newbies miss - better to drill the holes at the beginning of the build. I know I missed the implication of trying to do it later. Bob
  9. That is sweet, JP - your hard work and planning - and rework - have certainly paid off. And your documentation of the process will be a great resource for the rest of us. Thanks for sharing your struggles, and congratulations on a job very well done. Bob
  10. Looking good Andy. I have been following along since MSW1 days. You should be proud of what you have done with her! Bob
  11. Dave - that came out really well. Like Russ, I was admiring the work around the windlass. The coils that you have on there have a nice realistic look to them. Nice job indeed! Bob
  12. Matt - congratulations on completing her. Fabulous detail at such a small scale. I too am looking forward to the next project! Bob
  13. It must be the year for 31st anniversaries - the Admiral and I come up in September. Happy anniversary and happy modeling, when you get can back to it. Bob
  14. Chris - The tools I have used so far for working with brass: round-nose pliers - for shaping all those bands side cutting diagonals - for cutting brass strips to length small files - to even the ends and shape pieces punch - for centering drill bits pinvise - to hold the drill bits while hand drilling holes in the brass strips butane torch - for annealing brass (to make it easier to work) and for soldering silver solder brazing paste - for soldering cross locking pliers, third hand tool - to hold the brass while applying heat while soldering All items were purchased though Model Expo (except the soldering paste - I think that was Amazon). Hope this helps. Bob
  15. Dave - that is some nice looking work. After reading your comment about the upper end of the jumbo jib stay, I had to take a closer look at the rigging plan. What you did matches the plan nicely. To me it seems a little iffy for them to wrap the stay around the base of the topmast, but I suppose that after the topmast shroud is rigged there isn't much chance of the base popping out. Bob
  16. Try replacing the "'," with "." and it'll make more sense: 1.5X5 - It is just a different notation for the decimal point. Definitely not a stupid question, just a translation issue. By the way - it'd be great if you could start a build log for your work. We love to see other builders progress around these parts! Bob
  17. Jay, am I reading to much into this or did you put the model in a window, or out on the porch, to catch the breeze? Regardless of method, I look forward to seeing what the end result looks like. Bob
  18. JP - it may be taking longer, but the results you are getting are the payoff for the time spent. I am learning as you go! Bob
  19. Jay - Yeah I can see where the bearings would have an issue. I had this crazy picture in my head of them all laying side by side in a well-behaved sheet, ignoring gravity and the tendency to roll. Hmmm... maybe aquarium gravel I will be following with great interest. Bob
  20. Interesting way of getting inspiration. The cats are never helpful that way. Wherever the idea came from, she is looking good! Bob
  21. Jason - one of the things i have found most useful is that the silver solder tends to flow toward the heat source. I learned this from someone on the old MSW. It was counter-intuitive to me, but it made getting good bonds much easier than it was when I first started, when I assumed the flame would push the solder away from it. Bob
  22. Sjors You are off to a good start - and it looks like the cannon is properly aligned to fire between the deadeye lanyards, always a good thing. There are some tight tolerances there. Bob
  23. Hmmmm... I think I get it, Sjors - wait a minute - you're describing my log!!! A post here or there with very little activity in between. I guess I am just not the gracious host you are - for example, I've never offered anyone coffee over there. In any case, my post was done with tongue firmly planted in cheek - just having a little fun, no offense intended. BTW - I did finally go back far enough to find a photo of your work (18 pages back, I think ) - it is really looking great - I will be following more closely from here on out. Bob
  24. JP - On the surface this sounds like a recipe for trouble. I could picture myself doing the bow section followed by the stern section, and when I got to tye midships section having a different number of strakes on either side, resulting in having to put a drop plank or stealer amidships! With the amount of planning and attention to detail you are putting into this, I'm sure you won't have any such issues. Remember this is from someone who wound up with a pretty weird looking plank in the middle of my hull and consider the source. Thanks to your detailed description and documentation of the process, I'm sure my next project will turn out much better and more life-like. thanks for putting in the time and effort it takes to provide this useful information! Bob
  25. Thanks for sharing your trials with the sails Jay. This type of information seems to be hard to come by. My (completely unfounded) observation. Have you tried putting more bearings into the sail while it is drying? It seems that you might get a better "belly" if there was more in there. Of course the additional weight may be too much to handle. I'm sure you will get these to where you want them, looking forward to watching the progress! Bob
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